While length of history is huge, the fact that you have 'maxed out' your credit card is also HUGE (generally 30 to 90 points alone). If you cut that balance-to-credit ratio down to less than 50% there'll be a jump, and less than 30% or so will also see another jump, and then an additional jump at 10% or so (the 50% mark is pretty much exactly 50%; the other percentages are ballparks).
My ENTIRE credit history is less than 3 years old, but my scores are nearing 800 each now, and the ONLY negative thing on my reports is "Length of Credit History", which is huge and seems to impact my scores by about 50 points a year so far (650+ first year; 700+ second; 750+ the third, etc.). This track record is also based on the fact that I've never been late nor missed any payment ever. Last year I also saw my 730 score drop to 655 when my credit card balance went from about $5,000 to about $17,000 (out of a card limit of $30,000).
Despite a fairly tight debt-to-income ratio, just a few months ago I bought an 08 Ford Explorer and got 5.5% interest on it, with ZERO down, despite the economic climate we're in probably because of my relatively high FICO scores.
I think the order of things that will help you the most are:
1) Get credit card balances on reports (1 to 2 month delays reaching reports from actual balance changes) down to under 10% of each individual card's limit, and under 10 to 15% total debt to total credit sums.
2) Pay a 1/3 down payment, keep the rest of your money.
3) Wait: the longer you wait the more your scores will rebound from inquiries (likely at 18 even your initial credit cards are on your reports as inquiries), and the better your length of history will affect your score.
And, yeah, as others have said, and I'll say (and please don't take this as disrespectful), you may want to reconsider really hard just how important it is in your life to have a luxury car versus something practical. Unlike the others, I'd not suggest a used car. But you could get a very nice smaller or more basic car, brand-new. I'd always recommend buying brand new cars. At the low-end you can get a very functional and cost-effective Toyota Yaris hatchback for $14k brand-new with warranty/support. Be careful with leases if you drive around much (the mileage limits are deadly).
Oh, and with regard to insurance, I do remember that hurting bad but even though it's going to hurt worse: consider strongly the advantages of higher than state minimum liability coverages. I'm a very cautious person and have gone so far as the "1 million dollar umbrella policy" on top of the 300/500/100 liability coverages, but in this day and age just ONE wrong careless accident that puts someone in the hospital for anything serious and even the insurance I have might barely cover their hospital bills (which can easily be thousands of dollars PER DAY, and sometimes 10's of thousands per day, and with serious accidents they might be admitted for months). That would forever change the rest of your entire life you'd spend paying that debt.
/end lecture LOL.
quote is 600 a month lol. But I'm looking at a dodge charger. I guess | will have to wait and see what the union says. I'm actually waiting til May 1st before I apply. But one question, I'm sittin on 57% usage right now. Should I pay it down to maybe 40%, the following month to 25%, then end of April down to 5%? Or do it all at once?