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Hey Gang,
Been a lurker for ages, but now I am in the final stages of purchasing a car. Ordered it directly from Jeep.
Pulled Equifax MyFico and I scored 660. TransUnion the same.
Total is $31770 with the TreadLightly Discount.
Minus-$500 from a Targeted Direct Mailer.
$31,270
x .06 Sales Tax (PA) = 1876.20
Total: $33,146.20
Doc Fee: $129.00
Plus License & Title: 92.61
Out the Door: $33,367.81
I plan to put down 5,700.
What do you think are chances? Anything I can do between now and May 1st to improve the overall picture?
Im thinking you need another $5k-7k for a down payment. I had the same score buying a 2008 BMW 328 with 49,000 miles. I put 10 k down for a 23k car.
You think that much more? I should mention annual income is 64K and I am lucky enough to be employed in Public Education. Just passed my 5 year anniversary.
My dealer ripped me off I bet. What I learned from this Forum is to Bank Shop and It will count as one Hard Pull within 30 days.
The funny thing is that I emailed my local credit union and the banker I typically work with said that I should work with the dealer directly because they will get the better rate.
But If I may ask, how do I "bank shop". What is the best method to do this?
Go to the dealer and then to your local credit union. Compare all rates. My dealer pulled from 5 banks.
@Brian_Trying_700 wrote:Go to the dealer and then to your local credit union. Compare all rates. My dealer pulled from 5 banks.
You also bought a used car, new cars are completely different from a risk analysis perspective for the lenders, and often as large of a downpayment isn't required.
To the OP: I think you will be OK, though realistically another $1000 on a downpayment would probably seal the deal outright. 20% down on a new car I suspect most lenders will find some financing option for you... even if you had my credit issues, which you don't appear to have.
As Brian correctly suggests, it costs you nothing but time to do a little bank shopping on your own... though I would certainly take advantage of that a few days *before* you're planning to walk down to the dealership. I'd strongly encourage you to have the numbers before negotiating with the F&I person, more information is always better in this case.
I appreciate the efforts and responses. Looks like another 1K, or close to $6700 will provide me a good chance to get a good rate.
What frustrated me on MyFico Information is that stated:
Ratio of revolving balances to available credit was 82%. Not sure how that is completely accurate as I am not paying off the mortgage myself.
It also said my credit history was too short, even though my first account was opened over 11 years ago.
Hmmmm.
Also, if I coulkd ask one more question, If I coul pay off another 1K to my CC Debt, how and when would this be updated to my credit report?
@Brian_Trying_700 wrote:Go to the dealer and then to your local credit union. Compare all rates. My dealer pulled from 5 banks.
Other way around. Go to the banks first.
Then the dealer. Make the dealer beat the banks, because the banks aren't going to budge.
Follow my financial journey: http://www.frugalrican.com
Mortgages don't count as revolving debt (they're installment).
If you had more time, you might do better by using some of that down payment to pay down whatever credit card balances you do have. The reports have to list *something* on them unfortunately as dings, and usually the ones near the bottom of the list can be somewhat irrelevant.
If you're curious I'd post more information on your various tradelines on the Understanding FICO scoring or even General Credit Topics forum (including current balances vs. their credit limits); however, any payments you make now probably won't hit the report until sometime after May 1st at this point, and that doesn't help you right now unfortunately... I don't think you're going to have much if any trouble getting financed, even the extra 1K is probably unnecessary but it might help with some lenders