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Refinance options

Hello,

 

First of all, I wanted to thank you for offering to provide some very valuable education.  I will have to admit that my case is very complex.  In 2011, I was a victim of being swindled by a used car dealership.  I was far too trusting and I was sold a vehicle that by standards of safety should not have been sold to anyone.  The vehicle had signs of a damaged head gasket and/or a catalytic convertor and had an oil leakage in the spark plug housing. It also had severe alignment problems.  The oil could have easily been detected with a simple tune-up, so it’s safe to assume that the car was never inspected prior to sale. In total the car needed approximately $3000 in repairs prior to sale.  I was given a warranty that was subpar at best.

 

In Ohio, we have a popular dealership that is frequently advertised called Ganley and unfortunately I mistook popularity for reputability.  It was only later that I realized that were many complaints made to this dealership.  

 

The car was a 2007 Chevy Aveo LS that was listed as $7,500 and I was also given a 25% interest rate because my credit was not good at the time.  Unfortunately, the car began to deteriorate very quickly and it literally broke down a week after I purchased it.  After hooking the car to a diagnostic machine and receiving a tune-up reading, it was when the oil was discovered.  The dealership said that there was nothing that they could do, so the only thing I could do was keep draining the oil and keep making payments. After another few months, the radiator had be replaced and the engine problems greatly diminished gas mileage at the time when gas was $4 a gallon.

 

Despite the problems, I kept my making payments.  As time progressed, the car became increasingly unsafe and I tried to trade out of it.  It was then that I found out that the car was worth way less than what it was sold to me for and was actually worth $3500 at the most.  With the mechanical problems, the vehicle was worth barely over $1000.  I was also sickened to learn that despite paying over $6,500, only a few hundred went toward the purchase of the car.  Needless to say, I was extremely upside in a car loan for a vehicle that when driving it was like playing Russian Roulette.  I contacted the Better Business Bureau and the Attorney General for help and they sent me to AutoCap and there was no help to be found.  Apparently and unfortunately, the state of Ohio offers no such protection for consumers. I essentially purchased a death-mobile and there was nothing I could do.

In March of 2013, the vehicle had gotten so bad that I couldn’t even drive it. After tax time, I had a refund of $2,500 and tried to apply for a loan with that entire amount to put down. My credit had even approved because of the continuous payments.   I still could not trade out of the car.  I knew that it would not be wise to continuously invest the money into a vehicle that was essentially a ticking time bomb, so I had it towed back to the dealership.

 

Despite pay literally paying 6 times more than the car was worth, the loan company demanded that I keep paying for the vehicle even after it was returned and sold.  They even threatened to garnish my wages.  They had already damaged me enough, but they refused to let my suffering end.  I did the only thing I could do and I filed Chapter 7 bankruptcy in April of 2013 and it was discharged in August of 2013.

 

In August, I was able to purchase a certified 2013 Toyota Corolla from a more reputable dealership.  I really love the car, but I was given an interest rate of 20%. I have continuously made payments and I have improved my credit significantly.  In fact, my Experian credit score is 735. The Transunion and the Equifax scores are in the higher 600’s.  I last saw a 650 Transunion score and a 675 Equifax FICO score.

 

So far I have paid $7,193.32 toward the vehicle, but the current loan company has applied only $2,736.34 of that while $4,456.98 went toward interest.  I owe about $17,850 on the vehicle with approximately 30,000 put on.  I desperately need to refinance. My primary goal is to pay off the vehicle before my student loans are due.  I am currently earning my Masters and I don’t want to have both loans to contend with.  In both instances, I have proven myself as responsible, but I am still being punished because I allowed myself to be swindled.  In each month I paid extra and early.  During one month, I paid $300 above my car note of $497 and they put almost all of that extra money toward interest.  Thanks to my PNC account and Microsoft Excel, I now have a record of how each of my payments were distributed.  I tried once to refinance last December, but I was denied.  I desperately do not want to be denied again.  Income tax time is coming again and I know that I definitely will put at least an extra $1000 toward the principle of the car.  Could that money serve as a down payment to bolster a loan application?  Also how does one calculate to see if too much money is being put toward interest?  When would be the best time for me to refinance? Any advice you could give would be most greatly and sincerely appreciated. I look forward to hearing back from you are anyone who may know of some advice.

 

Kindest Regards

Message 1 of 10
9 REPLIES 9
sccredit
Valued Contributor

Re: Refinance options

At what point was any of this your fault for not inspecting the car or not having it inspected?  Do you understand how amortization works?  Never once in here do you take responsibility for any of YOUR decisions, in fact the opposite - you say you are responsible but you were swindled?  I digress:

 

To answer your question I'd apply for a refi but you are likely upside down on the car and will likely need to come up with some cash to cover the difference.  You car (without knowing more details) is likely worth about $14k, so maybe a 120% LTV CU will refi it now and get you out of the 20% loan.  Try DCU, with the score you should qualify for their lowest rate and they'll go 120% LTV 

Message 2 of 10
Revelate
Moderator Emeritus

Re: Refinance options

Welcome to the forums!  

 

I'm not an expert on auto loans but a few things jumped out at me: the recent BK is a doozy, and it doesn't surprise me you have the loan that you have from a dealer (as I've been there too personally at 19.35% a few years ago); that said, you've been making payments on it.

 

When to refinance?  Pretty much ASAP.  Not kidding though you may want to wait till you have refund in hand, but try it a little differently - if you have any local credit unions, go and tell them what's up, how you got into trouble resulting in the BK, and where you're at now and what you want them to do: namely, refinance off that massive APR.  Go build that relationship.

 

Some lenders will have problems with that recent BK, but there are others that will play ball: that $1000 is a bargaining chip to every lender you're going to talk to, I'd hang onto it an extra week or two while you talk to lenders and then if nothing doing (which would surprise me) kick it towards principal of that 20% loan.  I would expect other posters will have some insight as to current national lenders that might be a good idea too.  

 

What sort of income do you have currently?

 

Can't really give you any more advice but go talking to lenders with your hat in your hand explaining (and take some responsibility, the dealership may have hosed you but that's what lemon laws and other protections are for generally, play around with the loan calculators on bankrate too for amortization calculations) how it went down; you want them to do you a favor in this case (much like I had to do when I had an ugly tax lien staring every underwriter in the face) in return for your being a good customer... and then go wrap your arms around them if they say yes.  In my experience many lenders that would be willing to help you currently, may be a good candidate for a long-term financial relationship.  

 

 




        
Message 3 of 10
StartingOver10
Moderator Emerita

Re: Refinance options

Are you working? Or just going to school and living off student loans?

 

I ask because one fo the very important factors is your DTI and if you have no income, you aren't going to get approved through a CU or bank. Even car dealerships expect you to have an income (student loans are not income).

 

Having said the above, it is not uncommon for the BHPH type or other subprime dealerships to take advantage and give you a loan without actual income. You can see where this would be a problem and not a solution.

 

As to your payment going toward interest first, yes. Any loan has the interest paid first, then fees, then the remaining goes toward principal. If there is no remaining, the loan doesn't get paid down. This is especially evident in subprime loans where the interest is extremely high.

 

Now to your issue. Right now you are in a high interest loan trying to make  extra payments. You might want to try a small regional type lender to help you out of this mess if you can show the error of your ways (again - don't blame it on the dealer). If you are still too far upside down, see what you can do to get more funds (extra job, sell stuff around the house etc) so you have money to bring to the refi.  The reason you want to go to a small regional type lender (community bank) is they will give you a chance but you have to show that you learned your lesson. CU's are also good for second chances, but you have to have an actual income to apply.

 

BTW, look up your states' statutes for repo which is what you did when you towed your vehicle back to the dealership to turn it in - it is a voluntary repo. You are still responsible for the remainder of the loan after the finance co has added all their fees and default interest etc. Once they sell it and apply the proceeds, there is usually an amount left for you to repay. When the collateral is returned, the loan doesn't dissappear. 

 

Message 4 of 10
sccredit
Valued Contributor

Re: Refinance options


@StartingOver10 wrote:

Are you working? Or just going to school and living off student loans?

 

I ask because one fo the very important factors is your DTI and if you have no income, you aren't going to get approved through a CU or bank. Even car dealerships expect you to have an income (student loans are not income).

 

Having said the above, it is not uncommon for the BHPH type or other subprime dealerships to take advantage and give you a loan without actual income. You can see where this would be a problem and not a solution.

 

As to your payment going toward interest first, yes. Any loan has the interest paid first, then fees, then the remaining goes toward principal. If there is no remaining, the loan doesn't get paid down. This is especially evident in subprime loans where the interest is extremely high.

 

Now to your issue. Right now you are in a high interest loan trying to make  extra payments. You might want to try a small regional type lender to help you out of this mess if you can show the error of your ways (again - don't blame it on the dealer). If you are still too far upside down, see what you can do to get more funds (extra job, sell stuff around the house etc) so you have money to bring to the refi.  The reason you want to go to a small regional type lender (community bank) is they will give you a chance but you have to show that you learned your lesson. CU's are also good for second chances, but you have to have an actual income to apply.

 

BTW, look up your states' statutes for repo which is what you did when you towed your vehicle back to the dealership to turn it in - it is a voluntary repo. You are still responsible for the remainder of the loan after the finance co has added all their fees and default interest etc. Once they sell it and apply the proceeds, there is usually an amount left for you to repay. When the collateral is returned, the loan doesn't dissappear. 

 


Would not apply in this situation as he BK'd after returning the car.  

Message 5 of 10
StartingOver10
Moderator Emerita

Re: Refinance options

Oh, I thought he Bk'ed then got a vehicle and then did a voluntary repo. Sorry OP. sccredit is right. If you Bk'ed after the repo, then you don't owe the balance. The order makes a difference...

Message 6 of 10
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Refinance options

Hey LordKazekageGaara1983 ,

 

Brave of you to post all of that.  Noticed that you registered way back in May 2014 but only made your first post a few days ago.  Hopefully, sccredit's agressive tone did not scare you off.  I'm a newbie too and know how intimidating it can be to air such sensitive info about one's self.  Hopefully, you came back to read the other helpful posts in your thread.

 

Don't give up.  Stay on the boards.  Stay asking questions. 

Message 7 of 10
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Refinance options

I am curious to know what the plan is that the OP decided to take.

 

I too am in a loan with a high APR because of my horrible credit (at the time). I was thinking of refinancing in a year to show more solid credit but from I read on this post it seems like the sooner the better.

Message 8 of 10
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Refinance options


@Anonymous wrote:

I am curious to know what the plan is that the OP decided to take.

 

I too am in a loan with a high APR because of my horrible credit (at the time). I was thinking of refinancing in a year to show more solid credit but from I read on this post it seems like the sooner the better.


If your credit has improved enough to refinance your auto loan I would suggest you do that as soon as possible.  The longer you wait the more money you are going to lose.

Message 9 of 10

Re: Refinance options

Thank you all for the nice suggestions. Many of you were very helpful.  It was a little off-putting by how hostile some people are. (Particularily the first responder- why the hostility? None of us are perfect.) I have learned that the best cure for anything is honesty. You have to be honest with yourself before you can be honest with anyone. I don't know something, so I have to ask. 

 

Yes, it was my fault that I didn't investigate. It was a stupid mistake, but it doesn't make it right to sell cars that could potentially kill someone. The Ganley car franchise is the largest in the state of Ohio and I mistakenly mistook popularity for reputability.  Yes, I am guilty of that, but there should be a law that if you're going to sell a vehicle as a business, then it has to be inspected. It should not be up to the buyer to pay someone to look at the car. Aren't homes inspected prior to sale? (I honestly don't know, my family always rented when I was growing up) Most car dealerships have mechanics and autoshops on site. Why are they not using them? Buying a vehicle should never be like playing Russian Roulette. When I applied for the loan at that dealership, I was asking to be trusted (which is truthfully what we're doing when we apply for any loan), so I wanted to give trust in exchange. There is absolutely no excuse for a dealership not to perform basic maintenance. Each used car should be given an oil change, tune-up, transmission check, tire check, and all other major targets for inspection. In other words, ALL used cars should be certified prior to sale. There also is a striking difference between selling a car for $1,000 and $8,000. You know what you're potentially getting for $1,800.  If the vehicle has to be financed, then it should absolutely be certified. If someone finances a car for 6 years, then that car should last 6 years without any major repairs.  

 

Why is that there is only lemon law protection for new cars? Just because someone can only afford a used car, it doesn't make their money worth any less. In my case the engine problem that the Aveo had would have been detected during a tune-up because of the prescence of oil in the spark plug holders. I have learned my lesson the hard way. I've investigated the new dealership and was sure to purchase a certified Toyota. No more American cars and no more buying anything from anyone without performing thorough research. The point that I was trying to make is that despite the fact that I was a poor judge of making a purchase decision, I always make my payments.

 

Why should I or anyone else contiune to suffer with a high interest rate when they've clearly shown that they have made a conscious effort to improve? Since the bankruptcy, my score has gone from the 500 range to 672/673 (Experian/ Equifax -Transunion is lower. I found an error) In fact, my credit score now is better than it was before the bankruptcy. Maturity has helped alot in that regards. 

 

I have verified that I am not upside down in my loan. My current vehicle is a 2013 certified Toyota with only 32,000 miles. My main concern is that at this rate the vehicle will be if I don't refinance. 

 

I am currently earning my Masters while also working full-time. I know that student loans are going to bite me within 6 months after I graduate. My plan is to have the vehicle paid off ASAP-- which means no more car note, no trading, I want to eliminate that expense. 

 

It took me so long to start posting because everything with me is a work in progress. I wasn't paying attention to where my payments were going. It was only after researching the typical amoritization schedule and finding out that my loan isn't following that pattern that I realized that something was strange. I understand that most of your payment goes to interest each month, but MOST is not ALL. They were taking everything from me for multiple months. I need to refinance so I can pay on vehicle before my loans are due. 

 

 

Message 10 of 10
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