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question + finding the best auto rate

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Anonymous
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question + finding the best auto rate

i bought a car about a year ago for 29k.  it has been sort of a lemon and i have decided i need to part with it before it becomes more of a money pit than i care to deal with.  i will probably lose about 5k in depreciation for the car when i get rid of it, less the extra taxes/title i paid when i bought it.

 

the car i am eyeing is about 36k.  i owe 14k on my current car and expect to get about 24k for it, which would mean i could put 10k down on the new car, plus i would make sure and add whatever gets me to a total 12k (or potentially more) down payment on the new car.  that means after adding taxes to the new car, i would be asking for a loan around 28k, or 500ish/mo for 5 years.  i pay about 550/mo now, even though the note is only 380.  i can afford that with my income.

 

1. so here is my first question.  i'm just wondering the financial intelligence of selling a car after 1 year that you are basically definitely forfeiting 5k or more on due to depreciation.  do you think that is smart, or should i consider hanging on to the car a bit longer?  i am only afraid it is going to cost me a fortune if i keep it and problems continue to arise.  it's hard to read between the lines and know when keeping the car is of lesser value than selling it and cutting your losses.

 

simultaneously, i have excellent credit.  last year my score was 775 through equifax i believe (the real score).  i hope i'm not confusing that with the score you can't get...i know it's experian or equifax.  at any rate, i didn't get approved for my car loan last year, my father had to cosign.  the reason is because i had only had a credit card for 1 year up until that point.  short history.  since last year when i got the car loan, i have received an awesome AMEX card that is not easy to get and i have not been delinquent on any payments including the car loan.  i feel my credit should get me the best rate or close to, even if my history is still short at 2-3 years.

 

2. the question i have here is where are the best rates?  public institutions like JPMC, BofA, WF, etc.?  or private credit unions no one has heard of?  my rate is 3.9% now, i'd definitely like to see it in the 2.x or better.  do you think that is achievable?

 

thanks for all of the help.

Message 1 of 8
7 REPLIES 7
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: question + finding the best auto rate

UMMMM, Umm  OK WTHECK?!?!?!?

(edited to clarify) 


@Anonymous wrote:

i bought a car about a year ago for 29k.  it has been sort of a lemon define, a lemon is a technical and legal definaition of a vehicle, unless the car was used I do not understand how you are not having issues fixed under warranty  and i have decided i need to part with it before it becomes more of a money pit than i care to deal with again, explain.  i will probably lose about 5k in depreciation for the car when i get rid of it, less the extra taxes/title i paid when i bought it. cars do not appreciate. there is always some type of depreciation even if you do not drive it.

 

the car i am eyeing is about 36k. after making such a poor choice, please really really research the new choice  i owe 14k on my current car and expect to get about 24k for it OK HOW ARE YOU GETTING 24K FOR A 29K CAR one year after purchase that happens to also be a lemon....., which would mean i could put 10k down on the new car, plus i would make sure and add whatever gets me to a total 12k (or potentially more) down payment on the new car.  that means after adding taxes to the new car, i would be asking for a loan around 28k, or 500ish/mo for 5 years.  i pay about 550/mo now, even though the note is only 380.  i can afford that with my income.

 

1. so here is my first question.  i'm just wondering the financial intelligence of selling a car after 1 year that you are basically definitely forfeiting 5k or more on due to depreciation.  do you think that is smart NO, or should i consider hanging on to the car a bit longer?  i am only afraid it is going to cost me a fortune if i keep it and problems continue to arise Where is your warranty?.  it's hard to read between the lines and know when keeping the car is of lesser value than selling it and cutting your losses. Whatever you do there is NO JUSTIFICATION FOR A  $36,000 CAR. NONE. Sorry.

 

simultaneously, i have excellent credit.  last year my score was 775 through equifax i believe (the real score).  i hope i'm not confusing that with the score you can't get...i know it's experian or equifax.  at any rate, i didn't get approved for my car loan last year, my father had to cosign.  the reason is because i had only had a credit card for 1 year up until that point.  short history.  since last year when i got the car loan, i have received an awesome AMEX card that is not easy to get and i have not been delinquent on any payments including the car loan.  i feel my credit should get me the best rate or close to, even if my history is still short at 2-3 years.

 

2. the question i have here is where are the best rates?  public institutions like JPMC, BofA, WF, etc.?  or private credit unions no one has heard of?  my rate is 3.9% now, i'd definitely like to see it in the 2.x or better.  do you think that is achievable? only very few institutions offer 60 month rates that start with a 2. 

 

Very few places offer loans less then 2.9% as they are simply not worth it. When a dealership is advertising a 0% rate or whatever that is a subvented rate, or an artificially low rate made to help sell cars. 1.9%, 2.25% does not occur naturally.

Navy Federal Credit Union, PENFED may offer "lower" rates that start with a 2. Eligibility with them is an issue. You can check around your local banks and credit unions- with doing dues dilligence on your part you may find a local lender that starts with a 2 or 3. In general most banks and trend to be around a 4.

 

thanks for all of the help.


No one can make a decision for you. its all on you. This forum is for the most part, regardless for what it is perceived, a place where people with a past of  financial wreckage come to get advice.

 

With that mindset we must ask questions like what kind of car do you have that cost 30K and is in your eyes a lemon, and what is making you think it is a lemon.


Cars depreciate. (Unless its a collectors item or a Ford GT-and even then that tends to be a longterm purchase before it becomes profitable) They are not investments.

 

Unless you are making wages that are six figures with low personal debt or obligations, I simply do not think a $36,000 car is a good purchase decision-especially coming off a $29,000 purchase a year ago.

Message 2 of 8
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: question + finding the best auto rate

thanks for the replies.  i might be throwing the term "lemon" around improperly.  it is not a definitive lemon, though it is a car that has had several malfunctions.  at this point everything works, but the rate has been 1 problem every other month.  at that rate, the car could get pretty expensive.

 

the warranty is a certified pre-owned warranty that does not cover "wear" items.  every dealership i am going to is calling every problem i have had thus far a "wear" item, whether that be a computer or a broken gas main line.  it's ridiculous and poor business, and there is little i can do about what they do and do not classify as covered.  i have called the HQ of the company and they have only disagreed one time and reimbursed me for that incident.  the others i have not been so lucky with.

 

since the car is fine at this point in time, i can sell the car used and get 24k for it.  or i can trade it in and get 21k (plus the tax break).  either way i hope to recoup somewhere around 24k.

 

is the discussion around "a $36k is not worth it" more due to my income or just a general rule, because a $20k car can do the same thing as a $36k/$75k car, etc.?  i am not a 6 figure income earner, but i am not far off either.  i have no debt at all besides the current car payment.  i rent and do not own, and i pay my CC's off in full every month.

Message 3 of 8
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: question + finding the best auto rate

also, i am not discrediting your suggestions about $36k being too much for a car, however would be curious to know your opinion about owning a car that has 1 problem every other month, and those problems being expensive.  would you keep the car and just suck up the extra loss in cash when repairs are needed, or would you take your depreciation loss and part with the car and just buy something else cheaper?

Message 4 of 8
Creditaddict
Legendary Contributor

Re: question + finding the best auto rate

What do you want to buy? That might be best start... if you are buying new, most car makers are offering 0-3% for financing from what I have seen.

2. What car are you selling... I think your off in skittles land if you think you will only loose 6k in depreciation for a 1 year old used car.

Message 5 of 8
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: question + finding the best auto rate

2007 bmw, the car is USED when i purchased it, not new.  so 6k is a little steep.

Message 6 of 8
Creditaddict
Legendary Contributor

Re: question + finding the best auto rate


@Anonymous wrote:

2007 bmw, the car is USED when i purchased it, not new.  so 6k is a little steep.


2007 for 36k... I'm assuming either 5 or 7 series?

When I have researched BMW in the past they usually have some very attractive APR Specials on certified used BMW's

Message 7 of 8
Cloudlb
Regular Contributor

Re: question + finding the best auto rate

Credit unions are good sources for car loans.

 

also, -- Appearances are nothing.  Imo, it would be a good idea to look for something cheaper and more reliable than used beemers if you must buy a new car. 

 

 

Message 8 of 8
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