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Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!

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Anonymous
Not applicable

Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!

Hi everyone! First, thanks in advance for reading and taking the time to reply. I've spent the last many days/nights reading up on everything and the forum is great (also running on very little sleep because of this lol). I've been utliziing the search function as much as possible, but still have some questions.

 

A little background - I guess I'm "in the middle" of rebuilding my credit. I'm way better off than I was a year ago and hope to be way better off in a year. Current FAKO scores: TU 626, EQ 657. Barclay has my TU FICO at 663. Utilization is at 87%, but in real time it's 20-23% (come on updates!). 3 baddies set to fall off next spring - 10/11 months. I have a Cap1 Secured at 250, Disney Chase Visa at 500, and a Barclays Rewards that just went from 2k --> 4.5k and thus began my app spree! (Never received an auto CLI and got all high and mighty and figured I had finally left the kids table!) I have a 10k loan with Honda, some new school loans in deferrment as I'm still in nursing school - so everything is in good standing. 

 

Approved for the following:

Discover IT 500

AMEX BCE 1k

Chase Southwest RR 2k

 

So obviously I want to grow and do the best possible! I never paid much attention to "when statements cut" or any of this stuff I've been reading about, I've just PIF or paid at least 3x payment due amount by due date. So now, without further adue, my 1 million questions.

 

1. Payment - what is best? I see some people pay every 2 weeks, every day, PIF every month - I'm open to do either, just curious what's best. I've also read about wanting to show activity, not have 0 balances, let a little bit report, etc etc. Frankly I'm overwhelmed at all of this. Your advice is appreciated.

 

2. When "statements cut." Why is this important? How do I find out when this is? Again, something new to me. It sounds important enough that I need to find out when this is and take some sort of action (payment?) before they cut. Admittedly I've always ignored those e-mails and I'd like to not do that anymore. 

 

3. When the cc companies report. How can I find this out? Perhaps there is a list somewhere and I haven't found it, or it's different for everyone. I've read not to use your card during this time and use a different one. With the 3 new ones I plan on using actively, this shouldn't be a problem. 

 

4. What to actually use the cards for. I'm trying to maximize the benefits. So I had planned to use the AMEX on gas and groceries, Discover on the rotating categories, and the Chase SWRR for my more expensive purchases and online ones since I do a lot of that (in hopes to meet their introductory offer). Any other pointers I should be aware of? 

 

5. When will the HI hit? So far only 1 showing from Discover on TU.

 

6. How much are the 3 new accounts gonna tank my score? My utilization is gonna go down but I know there's blows with HI and new accounts. So curious to see how this plays out. 

 

7. Now that I'm obsessed, what do you like to use to track your FICO? I have a Credit Karma and get the TU with my Barclay. I believe I'll be able to access another one (maybe EX?) with my AMEX.

 

THANK YOU if you've stuck around and read all this. I'm all ears to any other pointers and suggestions you all may have. Looking forward to rocking this garden for the next year! Watch out May 2017! 

 

Message 1 of 6
5 REPLIES 5
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!

From the top:

 

1.) Generally, paying the full balance once a month works out best. This shows your lending companies that you can be responsible with the amount of credit they give you, and that makes it more likely that they'll increase your credit limits. Ideally, you want lower utilization for scoring, but since some of your cards have low limits, that can be a challenge. Maintaining low utilization on each card will be easier after you get some more limit increases, and you don't need to worry too much about it right now if you pay in full every month and you're not looking for any new loans or credit for a while. 

 

2.) Statements cut when the card company says "you owe ___ by __/__/20XX, minimum payment is ____" This generally happens on the same day every month, and you can find out what day that is by looking at past statements through your card issuer's web portal. Statements show utilization percentages to credit bureaus. For people who are micro-managing their credit scores (which I don't recommend unless you're about to apply for a loan or new credit in the next couple months), paying off the entire balance on a card before the statement cuts means the card issuer will report no balance to credit reports and paying down most, but not all, of the balance means the card issuer will report low utilization to the credit bureaus. In my opinion, this type of micromanaging credit is only useful if you're planning to apply for a new loan or credit. When you are about to apply for new credit, you ideally want 1 account to show under 10% utilization and the rest at 0 for the month when you're applying, which will maximize your credit scores. But its too much hassle to worry about on a regular basis, in my opinion.

 

3.) Credit issuers will generally report to the credit bureaus within a couple days of when your statement cuts. This will be different with each card, and tends to be based on when you got the card. Some credit issuers will let you change due dates, which will change statement dates and reporting dates as well.

 

4.) Since introductory offers are generally better than any normal rewards, I'd prioritize spending so you hit the required level to get any signup bonuses first. After that, spend normally. You should only get a credit card if it is useful in your normal spending. If you're regularly trying to figure out how to spend money to balance your credit cards, then you're working for them instead of them working for you. It sounds like you have a place in your spending for the Discover & Blue Cash Everyday. Fit in the rest where they work with your normal spending. And don't use cards that don't fit.

 

5.) Inquiries normally show up on your credit report within a day or two. Since there are 3 credit bureaus and most companies only run inquiries through one, each bureau will likely show a different number of inquiries. There are also some companies that will run inquiries through 2 bureaus, and Capital One checks all 3.

 

6.) Since everyone's credit profile is different, it's impossible to tell what kind of a hit your scores will take for the inquiries & new accounts. But if you're responsible with paying all your accounts regularly, your scores will rise over time.

 

7.) MyFICO 3B subscriptions ($30/mo) are the only way you can see and track all your FICO scores in the same place, but as you said, a number of card issuers will let you track one of your credit bureau FICO scores for free. You can track your TransUnion score through Discover and your Experian score through American Express. Credit Karma and the "free credit score" sites generally show Vantage scores, which are calculated differently than FICO scores, but can give you a rough idea of your range (most Vantage 3 scores are +/- 50 points of FICO 8 scores). And more importantly, Credit Karma will tell you about changes to your credit report for the 2 bureaus they monitor as they happen.

 

Hope that helped. Good luck as you rebuild and I'll see you in the Garden! Smiley Happy

Message 2 of 6
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!

1. Payment - what is best? I see some people pay every 2 weeks, every day, PIF every month - I'm open to do either, just curious what's best. I've also read about wanting to show activity, not have 0 balances, let a little bit report, etc etc. Frankly I'm overwhelmed at all of this. Your advice is appreciated.

It really does not matter how often you pay - many people who pay frequently do so to "free up" the available credit for re-use.

The only point that your balance counts is when it is reported each month - so ideally, you would pay a few days before your statement cut date, to lower your balance right before it is reported.  The best scoring result comes from having everybody except one paid off (zero balance) and one with a small (less than 10%) balance - but you really only have to push to achieve this in a reporting cycle where you are going to apply for a loan or something.  Use your cards as you normally do, assuming this means you can pay most or all of it off each month to avoid interest charges.

 

2. When "statements cut." Why is this important? How do I find out when this is? Again, something new to me. It sounds important enough that I need to find out when this is and take some sort of action (payment?) before they cut. Admittedly I've always ignored those e-mails and I'd like to not do that anymore. 

Your statement cut date is important because the balance an payments made on the account as of this date are what is going to report to the credit bureaus for that month.

You can max out a $10k card, but if you pay it off a few days before the statement cut date, the balance will report at 0.  Knowing this date for each of your cards means you can plan on making payments a few days ahead to minimize reported balances, and then not use the card until the statement date has passed.

It is clearly marked on your statement - it may say "statement date" or "billing period end date" or "billing dates" with a range or anything similar to that.  It will be 25 days before the due date printed on your bill (that is your "grace period") for almost all lenders.

 

Some lenders will fix your due date on the same date each month, and the statement date will shift slightly to be exactly 25 days before that set due date.  Other lenders will fix your statement date on the same date each month, and your due date will shift to be exactly 25 days after that date.  If you want to watch this in action, get yourself a calendar and mark each card's last statement date, then watch and see when the statement cuts on the next month - if it's the same date (i.e., th 12th), then the statement date is fixed.  If it's slightly different (say, it was 4/22 but this time it's 5/23 - with both payments due on 5/17 and 6/17), then your payment date is fixed and you'll have to do the math to get your statement date for each month.

 

3. When the cc companies report. How can I find this out? Perhaps there is a list somewhere and I haven't found it, or it's different for everyone. I've read not to use your card during this time and use a different one. With the 3 new ones I plan on using actively, this shouldn't be a problem. 

Most report at the end of each month, but they'll report whatever was the reality on your account on its statement date.  For example, I have a card whose statement cuts on the 10th of each month, but the updated reporting doesn't appear until the end of each month.  On about the 28th, the balance from the 10th will appear in my reports.

 

4. What to actually use the cards for. I'm trying to maximize the benefits. So I had planned to use the AMEX on gas and groceries, Discover on the rotating categories, and the Chase SWRR for my more expensive purchases and online ones since I do a lot of that (in hopes to meet their introductory offer). Any other pointers I should be aware of?  Others can probably help you more with this - I don't do categories lol  I have cards that use them, but I do not have the time or patience to keep up with it so I just use my QS card for daily stuff and have various bills linked to other cards just to make sure everyone sees a little activity each month.  I may lose $100 over the course of the year or something, but I don't care - it's one less thing I have to think about lol

 

5. When will the HI hit? So far only 1 showing from Discover on TU.  These can take up to 2-3 cycles to report, depending on what the lender does with them.

 

6. How much are the 3 new accounts gonna tank my score? My utilization is gonna go down but I know there's blows with HI and new accounts. So curious to see how this plays out.  This is highly dependent on your precise situation, and what factors are affecting your scores.  New accounts and inquiries are both "lighter" scoring categories, with payment history, utilization, and derogatories weighing much "heavier" on the scores.

 

7. Now that I'm obsessed, what do you like to use to track your FICO? I have a Credit Karma and get the TU with my Barclay. I believe I'll be able to access another one (maybe EX?) with my AMEX.  I pull a real FICO report about twice a year.  I have credit monitoring that alerts me of odd things happening, but I don't watch my scores wobble up and down by a couple of points on a regular basis.  I have been watching it a little this spring, since I just bought a new car, but I probably won't pull it again until fall now that the waves from that impact have dissipated.  I do have several cards that offer various scores, but not a single one ever matches my real FICO reports, so those are "more guidelines than actual rules," as the pirates would say.

 

THANK YOU if you've stuck around and read all this. I'm all ears to any other pointers and suggestions you all may have. Looking forward to rocking this garden for the next year! Watch out May 2017! 

Message 3 of 6
takeshi74
Senior Contributor

Re: Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!


@Anonymous wrote:

Current FAKO scores: TU 626, EQ 657. Barclay has my TU FICO at 663.


You can use whatever score(s) you want for monitoring your credit but you really need to look at broader trends versus specific data points and specific changes from one data point to the next.  However, if you want to know where you stand with a given creditor/product then you need to know which specific scoring model and CRA is used for that creditor/product's decision and pull that score if available.  Don't overlook where you stand with Experian.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

I never paid much attention to "when statements cut" or any of this stuff I've been reading about, I've just PIF or paid at least 3x payment due amount by due date. 


Generally you don't need to aside from keeping your revolving utilization at 30% or less.  If you want to eke out additional points and if it provides significant improvemnt to your revolving utilization and number of balances you might want to allow only 1 balance to report with very low utilization when applying for new credit, requesting CLI's etc.  However, you don't need to constantly do this.  Your revolving utilization is determined based on your balances and limits as indicated on the report when the report is pulled.  Prior utilization does not matter.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

Payment - what is best? I see some people pay every 2 weeks, every day, PIF every month - I'm open to do either, just curious what's best. I've also read about wanting to show activity, not have 0 balances, let a little bit report, etc etc. Frankly I'm overwhelmed at all of this. 


Payment frequency doesn't really matter aside form whatever it is that works best for you as long as all your payments are on time as Payment History is the biggest factor (see the link I provide below).  Your accounts typically report once a month so whatever your balance is on report date is what is reported.  If you want to reduce that then you need to make suitable payments to reduce the reported balance as desired.  If that's not a concern then all you need to do is pay by the due date.  I've already commented on when and why you might worry over number of reporting balances and lowering revolving utilization above.  You don't need to do this on a constant basis.  That said, there are those who choose to do so for various reasons but it's really your call whether you want to or not.

 

I don't bother with it but my spend and limits put me at 3% without any micromanaging on my part and my FICO 8's are all above 800.  I just pay each account once a month by its due date.   I could squeeze out some more points by reducing reported balances and number of balances but I don't see the need.  With FICO 8 best terms are generally offered in the 740-760 range so anything above that is just gravy.  Monitoring how your scores are impacted will give you a better idea of the benefit and might help you in your decision.  As a rule of thumb the bigger score improvements come from bigger drops in revolving utilization.  If you're sweating over a 1% or a few % change in revolving utilization you won't see as much of a scoring benefit as a bigger drop in revolving utilization.

 

As for PIF'ing, you want to pay in full to avoid incurring interest and debt.  Don't spend what you don't have.  Make sure you're budgeting and sticking to it.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

When "statements cut." Why is this important? How do I find out when this is? Again, something new to me. It sounds important enough that I need to find out when this is and take some sort of action (payment?) before they cut. 

 


Related to the above.  It's important for accounts that report on statement date because they report their balances on statement date.  However, it's only important if you're looking to reduce reported revolving utilization.  If not, then don't worry about it.  Most creditors report on statement date but not all do.

 

Statement date is on your statements.  You can also call your creditors to verify statement dates for each of your accounts.  You can reference your credit reports as well.  As long as there has not been a midcycle update the last report date is the date the account reports.

 

It's also helpful to have an undertanding of when billing cycles start and end for your accounts.  Statement date is the end of the billing cycle.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

Hi everyone! First, thanks in advance for reading and taking the time to reply. I've spent the last many days/nights reading up on everything and the forum is great What to actually use the cards for. I'm trying to maximize the benefits. So I had planned to use the AMEX on gas and groceries, Discover on the rotating categories, and the Chase SWRR for my more expensive purchases and online ones since I do a lot of that (in hopes to meet their introductory offer). Any other pointers I should be aware of? 


If you're looking to maximize rewards then it's all about what maximizes rewards on your spend.  For cash back cards this is very straightfoward as all you have to do is look at the earn rate.  5% is more than 4% and so on.  It's not quite so straightforward with rewards programs that accrue miles and points and you have to do a bit more research to determine what sort of reward value you can get.

 

You really should start with your spend.  Find where the majority of your money is going.  Find cards that maximize rewards on your biggest spend categories.  Run the numbers for your spend to help you understand.  Don't just look at earn rates.  5% sounds great but 5% of 0 spend is 5%.  If you have a lot of noncategory spend then you may want to look at one of the 2% or 1.5% on all spend cards.

 

For example, let's say you have $10,000 in noncategory spend and $100 in category X.  You're only going to get one card and you're trying to determine which yieds the best rewards for your spend.  Card A offer 5% on category X and 1% on everything else.  Card B offers 2% on all spend.

$100 * 5% + $10,000 * 1% = $105

$10,100 * 2% = $202

 

You have to do the math to properly compare and you should be considering this before applying for any rewards card.  Of course, it's a bit late given that you already have a number of cards but you should be thinking about this in future so you know how to use your cards before you have them and not after you've already applied.

 

You mention the BCE and it's popular because it has no AF but you need to consider total cost/benefit and not just AF/no AF.  I have no idea what your grocery spend is like but let's take an example person who has $5,000 in grocery spend.

$5,000 * 3% = $150

$5,000 * 6% - $75 = $225

 

Definitely do the math to help you figure these things out.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

When will the HI hit? So far only 1 showing from Discover on TU. 


They aren't really reported like other items.  You incur a hard pull when your report is pulled.  How you're viewing your reports may impact when you see the hard pull but generally HP's are immediate.  Credit Karna, for example, only updates once a week.  Not seeing a change on CK doesn't necesasrily mean that your TU and EQ reports have not changed.  It might just be that CK has not updated.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

How much are the 3 new accounts gonna tank my score? My utilization is gonna go down but I know there's blows with HI and new accounts. So curious to see how this plays out.  


Difficult to say.  It's not like 1 HP = X points and 1 new account = Y points.  The impact depends on the change and one's credit profile.  There are many factors at play.

http://www.myfico.com/crediteducation/whatsinyourscore.aspx

 

HP's typically have a small impact but a thinner profiles and/or profiles with issues can see a bigger impact.  Just having new accounts has an impact that is typically overlooked but the new accounts will reduce your AAoA (Length of Credit History) as well.  The impact to your AAoA depends on what your AAoA was and how the new accounts factor in.  AAoA is just an average so you can calculate it yourself to see the change.  If you don't want to do it manually you can use a spreadsheet and its date functions to do the math or one of the many online AAoA cauclators out there.

 

That won't tell you that you'll see a change of X points to you score but you'll at least have a better understanding of how the various factors change and if you monitor your scores you can correlate scoring impact.  Keep in mind the relative and typical weights of the factors as indicated in the link I provided.  Revolving utilization falls under Amounts Owed.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

Now that I'm obsessed, what do you like to use to track your FICO? I have a Credit Karma and get the TU with my Barclay. I believe I'll be able to access another one (maybe EX?) with my AMEX.


I generally don't though I do get FICO's from Discover, Barclaycard, AmEx, FNBO and NASA.

 

Credit Karma does not provide FICO's  Credit Karma provides TU and EQ VantageScore 3.0.  Those are only relevant to creditors that acutally use those scores but relevance matters for any scoring model even FICO's.  Again, you need to consider specific scoring models and not just numbers.

 

You really have to pick the solution you use based on your specific needs/wants.  myFICO is a popular option.  Credit Check Total is as well.  There are also other monitoring services that people use.

 

 

All of these are very common topics so don't overlook existing discussions.  Don't assume that you have to understand it all at once.  I've picked up what I know over a long span of time and from reading many threads here as well as using other credit sites and resources.  Don't overlook the various subfora and the stickies in each subforum.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

Generally, paying the full balance once a month works out best. This shows your lending companies that you can be responsible with the amount of credit they give you, and that makes it more likely that they'll increase your credit limits. Ideally, you want lower utilization for scoring, but since some of your cards have low limits, that can be a challenge. Maintaining low utilization on each card will be easier after you get some more limit increases, and you don't need to worry too much about it right now if you pay in full every month and you're not looking for any new loans or credit for a while. 


It's not so much paying in full that matters but revolving utilization but even reovlving utilization is just part of one factor among many.  One's entire credit profile and income will determine the limits that one qualifies for.  There are certainly benefits to paying in full but that's really a matter of avoiding interest and debt.  Paying in full makes it more likely that one has lower revolving utilization but you have to be careful with assuming that.  If you have a $10K credit card and charge $6K and pay in full by the due date but after the statement cut/report date then it will report at 60% even though it was paid in full.  That said, short term high revolving utilization generally isn't an issue.  It's prolonged high utilization that can lead to adverse action.

 

As for revolving utilization, it is balance(s) / limit(s).  Higher limits help but as with any fraction you can not only increase the denominator (limits) but decrease the numerator (balances) to make the fraction smaller.

 


@Anonymous wrote:

MyFICO 3B subscriptions ($30/mo) are the only way you can see and track all your FICO scores in the same place


myFICO provides the most FICO models but it does not provide all.  The monitoring and updates don't provide all models offered by the product.  The extra models are provided on a more limited basis.  There are other sources if one wants FICO 8's for all 3 of the major CRA's such as Credit Check Total.

 

Message 4 of 6
SouthJamaica
Mega Contributor

Re: Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!


@Anonymous wrote:

Hi everyone! First, thanks in advance for reading and taking the time to reply. I've spent the last many days/nights reading up on everything and the forum is great (also running on very little sleep because of this lol). I've been utliziing the search function as much as possible, but still have some questions.

 

A little background - I guess I'm "in the middle" of rebuilding my credit. I'm way better off than I was a year ago and hope to be way better off in a year. Current FAKO scores: TU 626, EQ 657. Barclay has my TU FICO at 663. Utilization is at 87%, but in real time it's 20-23% (come on updates!). 3 baddies set to fall off next spring - 10/11 months. I have a Cap1 Secured at 250, Disney Chase Visa at 500, and a Barclays Rewards that just went from 2k --> 4.5k and thus began my app spree! (Never received an auto CLI and got all high and mighty and figured I had finally left the kids table!) I have a 10k loan with Honda, some new school loans in deferrment as I'm still in nursing school - so everything is in good standing. 

 

Approved for the following:

Discover IT 500

AMEX BCE 1k

Chase Southwest RR 2k

 

So obviously I want to grow and do the best possible! I never paid much attention to "when statements cut" or any of this stuff I've been reading about, I've just PIF or paid at least 3x payment due amount by due date. So now, without further adue, my 1 million questions.

 

1. Payment - what is best? I see some people pay every 2 weeks, every day, PIF every month - I'm open to do either, just curious what's best. I've also read about wanting to show activity, not have 0 balances, let a little bit report, etc etc. Frankly I'm overwhelmed at all of this. Your advice is appreciated.

 

To optimize your score at any given moment, best thing is to pay down in advance of statement date, with all accounts reporting at zero except one account reporting a balance of 9% or less.

 

2. When "statements cut." Why is this important? How do I find out when this is? Again, something new to me. It sounds important enough that I need to find out when this is and take some sort of action (payment?) before they cut. Admittedly I've always ignored those e-mails and I'd like to not do that anymore. 

 

It just means the statement date. The reason it's important for scoring purposes is that the balance in the statement is the one used for computing utilization.

 

3. When the cc companies report. How can I find this out? Perhaps there is a list somewhere and I haven't found it, or it's different for everyone. I've read not to use your card during this time and use a different one. With the 3 new ones I plan on using actively, this shouldn't be a problem.

 

It doesn't matter when they report. What matters is what they report, which is the balance in the statement.

 

4. What to actually use the cards for. I'm trying to maximize the benefits. So I had planned to use the AMEX on gas and groceries, Discover on the rotating categories, and the Chase SWRR for my more expensive purchases and online ones since I do a lot of that (in hopes to meet their introductory offer). Any other pointers I should be aware of? 

 

Everyone looks at it differently. Me personally, I don't pay much attention to maximizing rewards. I concentrate on spreading the usage around and keeping reported balances down.

 

5. When will the HI hit? So far only 1 showing from Discover on TU.

 

Sorry I don't know what an "HI" is. If you mean hard inquiry, it varies when they hit the reports. But who cares?

 

6. How much are the 3 new accounts gonna tank my score? My utilization is gonna go down but I know there's blows with HI and new accounts. So curious to see how this plays out. 

 

No one knows how much.

 

7. Now that I'm obsessed, what do you like to use to track your FICO? I have a Credit Karma and get the TU with my Barclay. I believe I'll be able to access another one (maybe EX?) with my AMEX.

 

I'm obsessed too. I use everything I can get my hands on. I have a short attention span so I don't like the free ones on the credit card websites which only update monthly or even less. I use MyCICO 3B monitoring, Experian.com, Equifax.com, Credit Karma, Capital One Credit Wise, you name it.

 

THANK YOU if you've stuck around and read all this. I'm all ears to any other pointers and suggestions you all may have. Looking forward to rocking this garden for the next year! Watch out May 2017! 

 


 


Total revolving limits 741200 (620700 reporting) FICO 8: EQ 703 TU 704 EX 687

Message 5 of 6
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Newbie with Lots of CC ?s - Help me grow!

Thank you all for all your replies. As you can probably tell (I think it comes with being a nurse) I am a type-A perfectionist. I need to make lists, mark calendars, etc etc. You've all given great info on how to get the information I need. It does sound like a hassle to obsess over when they report but I'm going to try my best to put up with the additional hassle as I really need to grow my credit in the next year. My goal is to buy a house in 2 years. Thanks again. 

Message 6 of 6
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