cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Refinance Questions

tag
jeduhi
Contributor

Refinance Questions

A few questions about a refinance: 1. What is an optimal utilization for refinance? Currently have 1 CC - AMEX 2. Is it better to pay down to optimal utilization or save all cash on hand to pay any fees keeping any equity currently held?
Message 1 of 6
5 REPLIES 5
jeduhi
Contributor

Re: Refinance Questions

bump.
Message 2 of 6
Tarkovsky
Established Member

Re: Refinance Questions


@jeduhi wrote:
A few questions about a refinance: 1. What is an optimal utilization for refinance? Currently have 1 CC - AMEX 2. Is it better to pay down to optimal utilization or save all cash on hand to pay any fees keeping any equity currently held?

1) As you might guess, the answer to this isn't entirely straightforward, as there are a number of factors involved. My understanding is that, in general, credit utilization of less than 10% is ideal, as the interest rate you qualify for on a loan will be a function of your current credit score (and other factors), which is itself a function of current credit utilization. Assuming your AMEX is something other than a Green, Gold, or Platinum card (and hence, a true "credit card" that carries a monthly balance), the sub-10% credit utilization level is probably a good target to shoot for. This should help get your credit score up to a level that increases the chance that your lender will be able to offer you a lower interest rate.

 

2) As to which course of action is better -- paying down credit card balances or saving on-hand cash to pay for refinancing fees -- this will be primarily dictated by the cost to refinance, i.e., if paying down a credit card balance leaves you without the cash to pay the fees for refinancing, the question becomes somewhat moot. That said, I think the general rule of thumb is that the fees associated with refinancing run between 3% and 6% of the amount being refinanced. There do exist so-called "no-cost" refinancing options, in which you avoid paying upfront fees by either: 1) having the fees waived by the lender in exchange for a slightly higher interest rate; or 2) having the fees, themselves, rolled into the amount that you're refinancing (e.g., a $100,000 refinance with 3% processing fees becomes a $103,000 refinance without upfront fees). You should also check your current mortgage agreement to see if there's an early payoff penalty, since refinancing is implicitly an early payoff of an already existing mortgage. In the case that such a penalty exists in your current mortgage agreement, you'll need to factor that cost into the total cost of refinancing.

 

Since there are quite a few options, you should really crunch the numbers and see which option suits you best. If your primary concern is to have as low a payment as possible, a lower interest rate is probably what you're after, in which case getting your credit score up by paying down a credit card balance may be the best option. By contrast, if your primary concern is to be able to afford the upfront fees to refinance, you may have to accept that you can't pay down a current credit card balance, which in turn means having a slightly higher interest rate, and hence, higher monthly payments. Similarly, a no-cost refinance (if available from your lender) might be a blending of the two extremes, in that you might be able to get a lower interest rate by paying down a credit card balance while still be able to afford the "fees" by rolling them into the total amount you're refinancing. The best way to settle which option is best for you is to do the math for each scenario and see which result has the right mix of benefits/costs for your particular situation. Anyone considering a new mortgage or refinancing an old one should learn how to plug numbers into a mortgage formula (not an online calculator, but an old fashioned, pen-and-paper equation) and see what their monthly payments and total repayment would be, as this will allow you to check the numbers for yourself without having to rely on someone else. It's relatively easy to do -- the only pieces of information you'll need are: 1) the amount you want to refinance; 2) the fees (if any) associated with refinancing; and 2) the interest rates you could qualify for given your current credit score (i.e., at your current credit card utilization) and at a hypothetical higher credit score (i.e., provided you could lower your credit utilization by paying down your card balance). I can provide the relevant equations in a follow-up post if you like.

Message 3 of 6
jeduhi
Contributor

Re: Refinance Questions


@Tarkovsky wrote:

@jeduhi wrote:
A few questions about a refinance: 1. What is an optimal utilization for refinance? Currently have 1 CC - AMEX 2. Is it better to pay down to optimal utilization or save all cash on hand to pay any fees keeping any equity currently held?

1) As you might guess, the answer to this isn't entirely straightforward, as there are a number of factors involved. My understanding is that, in general, credit utilization of less than 10% is ideal, as the interest rate you qualify for on a loan will be a function of your current credit score (and other factors), which is itself a function of current credit utilization. Assuming your AMEX is something other than a Green, Gold, or Platinum card (and hence, a true "credit card" that carries a monthly balance), the sub-10% credit utilization level is probably a good target to shoot for. This should help get your credit score up to a level that increases the chance that your lender will be able to offer you a lower interest rate.

 

2) As to which course of action is better -- paying down credit card balances or saving on-hand cash to pay for refinancing fees -- this will be primarily dictated by the cost to refinance, i.e., if paying down a credit card balance leaves you without the cash to pay the fees for refinancing, the question becomes somewhat moot. That said, I think the general rule of thumb is that the fees associated with refinancing run between 3% and 6% of the amount being refinanced. There do exist so-called "no-cost" refinancing options, in which you avoid paying upfront fees by either: 1) having the fees waived by the lender in exchange for a slightly higher interest rate; or 2) having the fees, themselves, rolled into the amount that you're refinancing (e.g., a $100,000 refinance with 3% processing fees becomes a $103,000 refinance without upfront fees). You should also check your current mortgage agreement to see if there's an early payoff penalty, since refinancing is implicitly an early payoff of an already existing mortgage. In the case that such a penalty exists in your current mortgage agreement, you'll need to factor that cost into the total cost of refinancing.

 

Since there are quite a few options, you should really crunch the numbers and see which option suits you best. If your primary concern is to have as low a payment as possible, a lower interest rate is probably what you're after, in which case getting your credit score up by paying down a credit card balance may be the best option. By contrast, if your primary concern is to be able to afford the upfront fees to refinance, you may have to accept that you can't pay down a current credit card balance, which in turn means having a slightly higher interest rate, and hence, higher monthly payments. Similarly, a no-cost refinance (if available from your lender) might be a blending of the two extremes, in that you might be able to get a lower interest rate by paying down a credit card balance while still be able to afford the "fees" by rolling them into the total amount you're refinancing. The best way to settle which option is best for you is to do the math for each scenario and see which result has the right mix of benefits/costs for your particular situation. Anyone considering a new mortgage or refinancing an old one should learn how to plug numbers into a mortgage formula (not an online calculator, but an old fashioned, pen-and-paper equation) and see what their monthly payments and total repayment would be, as this will allow you to check the numbers for yourself without having to rely on someone else. It's relatively easy to do -- the only pieces of information you'll need are: 1) the amount you want to refinance; 2) the fees (if any) associated with refinancing; and 2) the interest rates you could qualify for given your current credit score (i.e., at your current credit card utilization) and at a hypothetical higher credit score (i.e., provided you could lower your credit utilization by paying down your card balance). I can provide the relevant equations in a follow-up post if you like.


I would very much appreciate if you would provide me with all relevant equations. I'm a number cruncher. I want to pay the least amount possible (obviously) and we do have some equity in the house. I guess a lot will have to do with what the bank appraises the house at. AMEX statement cuts on the 10th so looking to move quickly after a decision is made and start the refinance process.
Message 4 of 6
Tarkovsky
Established Member

Re: Refinance Questions


jeduhi wrote:

 

I would very much appreciate if you would provide me with all relevant equations. I'm a number cruncher. I want to pay the least amount possible (obviously) and we do have some equity in the house. I guess a lot will have to do with what the bank appraises the house at.AMEX statement cuts on the10th so looking to move quickly after a decision is made and start the refinance process.

It's simple enough. The formula for calculating a monthly payment is:

 

Monthly Payment = [L(r/12)(1+r/12)^t] / [({1+r/12}^t)-1]

 

Where:

L = Loan amount (in dollars)

r = annual interest rate (in decimal form, e.g., 4% = 0.04)

t = lifetime of loan (in months, e.g., 30 years = 360 months)

 

(Note: the rich text editor used in the MyFICO forums doesn't allow exponents, so the caret sign (^) implies an exponent, just in case you weren't familiar with that notation.)

 

As an example, let's say you purchased a home eight years ago for $300,000. You put $50,000 down, and hence, had to get a mortgage to cover the other $250,000. Let's further assume you were given an interest rate of 6.007% (i.e., 0.06007). Your monthly payment on this loan (principle and interest only; does not include PMI, property tax, or home owner's insurance) would be:

 

Monthly Payment = [$250,000(0.06007/12)(1+0.06007/12)^360]/[({1+0.06007/12}^360)-1] = $1,500.00 per month

 

The total repayment for this loan would simply be the monthly payment ($1,500.00 per month) times the lifetime of the loan (360 months), or $540,000, which is 2.16 times the original loan amount ($250,000). At the end of any given month, the remaining principle on the loan is simply the principle amount from the previous month plus whatever interest has accrued during that month. This is because the interest accrued in a mortgage is compounded monthly, not annually, which is why the annual interest rate (r) in the aforementioned formula is always divided by 12. The amount of interest accrued is simply:

 

Interest Accrued = (P)(r/12)

 

Where:

 

P = the remaining principle from the previous month (in dollars)

r = annual interest rate (in decimal form)

 

So for example, at the end of the first month of the life of the loan, the accrued interest would be:

 

Interest Accrued = ($250,000)(0.06007/12) = $1,251.46

 

As a consequence, the actual balance on the mortgage at the end of the first month is $251,251.46. When you send in your first mortgage payment of $1,500, the remaining mortgage balance becomes $249,751.46. At the end of the second month, another $1,250.21 in interest accrues, resulting in a remaining balance of $251,001.67. When you send in your second mortgage payment, this decreases to $249,501.67. You can see that the amount of interest that accrues each month will decrease each time you make a payment, since the remaining balance gets incrementally smaller and smaller.

 

Now, after paying $1,500.00 per month for eight years (96 months), the remaining balance on the mortgage account (including principle and interest) will be $219,462.70 (to get this number, we simply need to carry forward the aforementioned interest calculations for 96 months, which is relatively easy to do if you're familiar with making an Excel spreadsheet; online calculators can do the same). If after those eight years you decided to refinance, that would be the minimum amount you'd need to refinance. I say "minimum" because let's recall you could also roll the fees for refinancing (if any) into the new loan amount, thereby increasing the actual amount you'd need to borrow. To keep things simple, however, let's just assume you paid the fees upfront with cash and only had to refinance the remaining balance on the mortgage, but at a lower interest rate (since, after all, a lower interest rate is the only reason you'd want to refinance). Let's look at a couple scenarios: 1) a new 30-year mortgage at 4.25%; and 2) a 15-year mortgage at 3.75%. Here's how the numbers work out:

 

Scenario 1: Monthly Payment = [$219,751.46(0.0425/12)(1+0.0425/12)^360]/[({1+0.0425/12}^360)-1] = $1,081.05 per month

Scenario 1: Total Repayment = ($1,081.05 per month)(360 months) = $389,178.00

 

Scenario 2: Monthly Payment = [$219,751.46(0.0375/12)(1+0.0375/12)^180]/[({1+0.0375/12}^180)-1] = $1,595.98 per month

Scenario 2: Total Repayment = ($1,595.98 per month)(180 months) = $287,276.40

 

Obviously, the first scenario offers considerably lower monthly payments, but a much higher total repayment due to the higher interest rate and the longer lifetime of the loan. By contrast, the second scenario offers a monthly payment that's fairly close to what you're currently paying, but with much greater savings in the life of the loan. Which option you choose is going to depend on what is more important to you, i.e., having a lower monthly payment (in order to afford other expenses) or being able to save money (over $100K in this example) in the long run.

 

Once you have all of that data, it's important to consider if refinancing is even right for you given what the numbers say. For example, recall that we calculated the total repayment of the original mortgage would be $540,000. Given that after 96 months the owner has paid back $144,000, the total repayment remaining would be $396,000. You'll notice that the refinance in Scenario 1 shows a total repayment of $389,000, which is very close to how much was already left on the original loan. After you consider all the fees and time that would be required to refinance, refinancing may not turn out to be worth your time, money, and effort. For a refinancing scenario to be worth it, it has to offer savings that make the time and effort worth it. In this case, the refinance in Scenario 2 makes much more sense, provided you can afford the slightly higher monthly payment, since it will save you about $109,000 over the original mortgage. This is precisely why you need to run the numbers for a refinance first before you dive headlong into one -- it may turn out that it's either simply not worth it (as in Scenario 1) or too expensive on a monthly basis (as in Scenario 2).

 

I hope that helps.

Message 5 of 6
DallasLoanGuy
Super Contributor

Re: Refinance Questions

utilization afffects scores.

 

scores are a factor in 'pricing' the loan.

so, a lower score is almost always a better priced deal.

 

price = rates/fees

 

 

Retired Lender
Message 6 of 6
Advertiser Disclosure: The offers that appear on this site are from third party advertisers from whom FICO receives compensation.