cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

my 15 vs 30 yr dilemna

tag
SantaMar
Regular Contributor

my 15 vs 30 yr dilemna

I've been on the fence about this for a bit and still am after some research so I've decided to seek help from the forum.  I currently am in a 20yr expedited term at 5.25%.  There's no question that I have to refi.  I feel that if I go into a 30yr I am backtracking but the monthly savings are substantial, nearly $800 with a 3.375% rate.  The 15 yr I'd still be saving like $350 with a rate of 3.1% and will really shave off principal when I go to sell.   I'm 36 and don't see this as my permanent house, being conservative I'd say another 7 yrs or so before we move. Will someone please enlighten me.

Message 1 of 9
8 REPLIES 8
tooleman694
Valued Contributor

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemna

In your case I would go with an ARM.

Message 2 of 9
StartingOver10
Moderator Emerita

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma

In my opinion, it really depends upon how disciplined you are with your payments. You can take the 30 yr and make the payment based on the 15 yr amortization. If you run into difficulty, you then can make the 30 yr payment. But not everyone thinks of their mortgage payment as the minimum due. If you feel comfortable making the larger payment, then this is the 'safest' way should things change financially down the road. Call this option 1.

 

For Option 2,  if it were me and I were in your shoes, I would go for the 15 yr fixed based on the info you posted. You save on rate when you take a 15 over a 30 yr. We are still at historic lows so I would not take an adjustable. IME when you have a projected timeline of moving in the next 7 yrs, it can easily turn into 9 or 10 years. You are still saving a large amount monthly over the payment you are making now. However, if you have a set back financially in the future, the payment is what it is - there is no reduction like there would be if you decided to do option 1 above.

Message 3 of 9
tooleman694
Valued Contributor

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma

Option 1 you would be making a higher payment vs option 2 if you paid out based on the 15 yr amortization..

Message 4 of 9
SantaMar
Regular Contributor

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma

yes I considered a 7 year arm for a minute but what if that 7 turned into 9........  another reason for comparing the 2 options is the amount saved over 10yrs would be of more value in savings with the 30yr, or in equity with the 15 yr.  Also I don't know how to compute the payoff in 10 yrs between the 2 either.  Currently it is 160k.  Thank you all for your insight

Message 5 of 9
StartingOver10
Moderator Emerita

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma

Just run an amortization schedule for your current loan  and another one for each of the two proposed refi's.  Go to bankrate.com  or another reputable site and you can plug in your figures, print the amortization schedules and go right to the 10 year mark to see where you are at that time. You can also plug in additional payments monthly or annually if you like to see how much you can save if you put X amount extra down (either monthly, annually or both). Its a very powerful way to take control of your mortgage financing.

Message 6 of 9
IOBA
Senior Contributor

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma

SantaMar - we are in our "forever" home and choose a 5/1 ARM.  The payments are low and we are socking everything we have into the house.  EVERYTHING extra.  We want to get the house paid off in less than 5 yrs.  The wonderful thing about the ARM is that the interested is calculated once a month on the principle balance.  So making extra payments on the mortgage (just made 3 payments today on the principle!)  WILL affect how much interest you pay.

 

If we had done a fixed rate, than we would be paying a fixed amount of interest every month, a predetermined amount when we got the loan.  Any extra payments on the principle (like we are doing now) would come off of the back end of the loan.  Once we wiped out the principle on payment 360 (30 year loan), then the interest associated with that payment would magically disappear.  Of course, payment 360 is at the very end of the loan and very little interest would be associated with that payment.  So it's more work and takes longer to pay down the mortgage, but it is very doable.

 

When we choose the 5/1 ARM, we were a little concerned about whether we should choose the 7/1 ARM at a higher interest rate.  In the end, we said we knew we could afford the 5/1 mortgage payment on unemployment.   In the end, we knew that if we missed our goal of paying off the mortgage in 5 years, the interest bump up and the higher payment was still doable.

 

Due to DH's job, we could move at any time for employment.  Such is life.  It's not likely to happen, but it could.  We have a kid in college.  We pay cash for his education.  Expenses vary each quarter.   Our vehicle has many miles on it - the number is higher than our annual salary!  Smiley Wink   <---- just a fun fact.   Stuff happens.  Life happens.  

 

What if you do get the 7/1 ARM?  What if you make extra payments on it and get it paid off in 7 years?  What if it takes 8 years?  In the super big picture, not a big deal.  And if you move in 7 years, and the house is paid off, you have a lot more options.   If the house is almost paid off when you move, you have a lot more options.

 

We went with the 5/1 ARM and don't regret it.

 

Please let us know what you decide to do.

 

 

Message 7 of 9
StartingOver10
Moderator Emerita

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma


@IOBA wrote:

@SantaMar - we are in our "forever" home and choose a 5/1 ARM.  The payments are low and we are socking everything we have into the house.  EVERYTHING extra.  We want to get the house paid off in less than 5 yrs.  The wonderful thing about the ARM is that the interested is calculated once a month on the principle balance.  So making extra payments on the mortgage (just made 3 payments today on the principle!)  WILL affect how much interest you pay.

 

If we had done a fixed rate, than we would be paying a fixed amount of interest every month, a predetermined amount when we got the loan.  Any extra payments on the principle (like we are doing now) would come off of the back end of the loan.  Once we wiped out the principle on payment 360 (30 year loan), then the interest associated with that payment would magically disappear.  Of course, payment 360 is at the very end of the loan and very little interest would be associated with that payment.  So it's more work and takes longer to pay down the mortgage, but it is very doable.

 

When we choose the 5/1 ARM, we were a little concerned about whether we should choose the 7/1 ARM at a higher interest rate.  In the end, we said we knew we could afford the 5/1 mortgage payment on unemployment.   In the end, we knew that if we missed our goal of paying off the mortgage in 5 years, the interest bump up and the higher payment was still doable.

 

Due to DH's job, we could move at any time for employment.  Such is life.  It's not likely to happen, but it could.  We have a kid in college.  We pay cash for his education.  Expenses vary each quarter.   Our vehicle has many miles on it - the number is higher than our annual salary!  Smiley Wink   <---- just a fun fact.   Stuff happens.  Life happens.  

 

What if you do get the 7/1 ARM?  What if you make extra payments on it and get it paid off in 7 years?  What if it takes 8 years?  In the super big picture, not a big deal.  And if you move in 7 years, and the house is paid off, you have a lot more options.   If the house is almost paid off when you move, you have a lot more options.

 

We went with the 5/1 ARM and don't regret it.

 

Please let us know what you decide to do.

 

 


Actually the interest on a fixed rate mortage is simple interest and only the payment and interest rate are fixed.

If you pay extra principal payments like you are doing with your adjustable rate loan the interest on a fixed is still calculated on the remaining financed balance. Yes, you still have to make at least the minimum monthly payment - but the allocation monthly changes. Look at the amortization schedules and you will see how the interest payment as a function of the full payment reduces monthly.

 

For you IOBA the adjustable works because you will have it paid off in just a few years, but the average person won't have it paid off before the adjustment period and will be subject to the rate change. it's not a bad program, just a little more risky for the average borrower because the rate in 5 years is unknown. Of course, the note the OP signs on an adjustable will specify the changes in the rate, if the index is a slow moving index and the margin is small, maybe the adjustable rate will work.

Message 8 of 9
IOBA
Senior Contributor

Re: my 15 vs 30 yr dilemma

Ah, I should have clarified.  (Thanks!)

 

My 5/1 ARM has a fixed rate of interest for the first five years.   Each month, the bank looks at my principle balance and applies the magical math formula to figure out how much of my payment will be applied to the principle and how much wil be applied to the interest.   Since I pay extra on the principle each month, the amount of interest calculated each month drops, sometimes significantly.  But my mandatory payment stays the same each month.  Smiley Happy

Message 9 of 9
Advertiser Disclosure: The offers that appear on this site are from third party advertisers from whom FICO receives compensation.