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@Anonymous wrote:First you need to get your score up, which means paying off those CC's (or at least down to under 10% utilization)
Then you need to have enough money put aside to pay the collections (but do not pay them now). The bank may or may not make you pay them, but if they do, pay them at closing. Paying a collection does not raise your score and can lower it by changing the date of last activity.
Then you need to have enough money saved to pay the full 3.5% down payment, whatever closing costs are required, and all buying/moving costs. You need to do all this without re-charging your credit cards.
As a note, alot of people in the past have gotten sellers to pay for closing costs. While this is a possibility, it is harder than it used to be due to tighter appraisal standards and lending standards. People want what the market value of their home is, not hte market value minus closing costs. SO unless the house is going to appraise for more than what yhe asking price is, getting seller paid cc is harder to do now than it was. You either need alucky appraisal or a fairly desparate seller usually.
Hi mickie...we're still seeing a lot of seller-paid closing costs in our market. I'm sure some of this is market-by-market. We also see that it varies by lending program. We are in a small community, and if we see a home sell <$150k with FHA or USDA, for example, those costs are more often than not still being paid by the seller, and sellers are being groomed to pay them by their agents. Buyers are being urged to ask for them by their agents. In our higher price ranges, however, we are not seeing sellers paying closing costs.
I agree that no buyer can ever assume that ANY of their closing costs will be paid or shared by the seller. It may happen, but don't count on it. If it happens, it's gravy.
@tatas wrote:
i am going to pay the 293 and about 2000 or 2500 on other acct. what would my utilization?
If you pay $2,000 on the card where you owe $3,500 and you pay the entire $293 on the other card, then your total debt would be $1,500...right?
If so, then you divide that $1,500 by the total of your two credit limits ($6,300). That would make your utilization 24%. That's way better than where you're at now.
Also, I would recommend that you go online and pay both of these as soon as you are able. That way your cards will actually report the lower balances. If you wait to pay until after you receive the statements in the mail, then your old balances will be what is still counting. You have to control what reports.
@tatas wrote:
If I get approved with usda is there a down payment required.
My daughter got a USDA direct loan. Her loan is a subsidized loan. She did not have to have a down payment, but she paid one in order to buy more house than her loan allowed.
She still had closing costs, however.
I can't speak to other kinds of USDA loans. Also, you don't have to live in the country to get a USDA loan. We are a small community of around 10k people. That's a common misperception that some people have. USDA still has pretty strict requirements as to debt-to-income ratios, etc. It's not that they are an easy loan.
The house i am trying to get is in the area to qualify for usda. I will have some cash on hand for closing cost. is usda real strict?
I believe USDA is strict on income and DTI. FICO requirements are lender based I believe so that would still probably need to be addressed.