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10 Baddies, 0 Positive Accounts... HELP!!

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Anonymous
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10 Baddies, 0 Positive Accounts... HELP!!

I've been perusing the forums for the past few days and I figured now would be a good time to reach out for a bit (okay, a lot!) of help.
I've read its best to just let it all out and ask direct questions... So here we go. I apologize in advance for extreme candor and/ or oversharing.

Me: 25 year old female, employed full-time, annual salary 45k.
I screwed up my credit over the past few years because I just didn't know how credit worked nor did I understand the repercussions to come.

So far I've only pulled my fico from Experian... it was a lovely 542.
I figured because there was nothing to dispute that I shouldn't spend money to view the others yet...

My accounts/ credit:
1. Student Loan- I just brought up to date. It was 90 days delinquent. Current balance owed= 1800

2. Medical Bill (in Collections)= 3000
Date Opened 7/08, Last Reported 10/10

3. Medical Bill (in Collections)= 400
Date Opened 4/08, Last Reported 11/10

4. Capital One (Sold to Collections)= 1300
Date Opened 3/08, Last Reported 11/10

5. Capital One (Original Account)= 560
Date Opened 11/04, Last Reported 10/08

6. Gym Membership (in Collections)=1500
Date Opened 7/06, Last Reported 10/10

7. Utility Bill (in Collections)= 200
Date Opened 7/09, Last Reported 10/10

8. Utility Bill (in Collections)= 400
Date Opened 1/09, Last Reported 1/09

9. Cell Phone Company (in Collections)= 400
Date Opened 9/09, Last Reported 10/10

10. Cell Phone Company (in Collections)= 750
Date Opened 3/08, Last Reported 10/10

As I said. I have absolutely no accounts in good standing right now.
I recently started using Mint and have been sticking to a budget for the past 2 months which comfortably leaves me $750 per month that I can use toward debt repayment.

How do I prioritize what to pay first?
Should I pay those that were most recently opened i.e.. #8 the 400 dollar cell phone bill that's been sold off to collections.

 

Should I try to negotiate with these collection agencies? I've received several notices in the mail regarding settling the debts at 60% off.

 

I've heard of the So- called snow ball effect in paying the smallest balance off first... is that a good plan?

 

Your thoughts and knowledge are requested and appreciated!
Thanks in advance Smiley Happy



Message 1 of 3
2 REPLIES 2
MarineVietVet
Moderator Emeritus

Re: 10 Baddies, 0 Positive Accounts... HELP!!

Hello and welcome.

 

I'll mention a few things and let others also chime in. If you haven't done so already the first thing I would do is pull your free reports from annualcreditreport.com and go over each of them carefully and see if there are any errors that can be corrected.

 

Concerning your Experian score may I ask where you bought it? No one has been able to buy their own Experian FICO score since February of 2009. Creditors can pull Experian and also there is a CU in Pennsylvania that supplies that information to it's members only. Experian sells from their website what is called a "Plus" score and it's no way related to an Experian FICO score so it sounds like right now you don't really know where you stand score wise.

 

You can only buy true FICO scores at a few places. One place is here at myFICO. I suggest you do an internet search for "myfico discount codes" to save a little money. You can also purchase your Transunion score at www.transunioncs.com. At www.equifax.com EQ will still sell you an EQ FICO score but they make it very hard to find.

 

A couple of threads you might want to read through:

 

What Steps Do I Take?

 

Credit Scoring 101

 

There is a plethora of knowledge available here and no situation is hopeless. Everyone here has been through bad times. I hope you stick around and decide to join our online community.

 

 

From a BK years ago to:
EX - 9/09 pulled by lender 802, EQ - 10/10-813, TU - 10/10-774

"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem".

Message 2 of 3
llecs
Moderator Emeritus

Re: 10 Baddies, 0 Positive Accounts... HELP!!

Welcome to the forums!

I'd suggest reading the following:

Common Abbreviations

Credit Scoring 101 - great for knowing what is in your credit score and to see how your score is impacted.

What Steps Do I Take - great for learning the repair process.

and Example letters - PFDs, GWs, DVs, etc.

 

First off, ignore that score. It isn't a FICO score. Your EX FICO may actually be higher. Other than myFICO.com, you can get your EQ FICO from Equifax.com or from your lender. Other than myFICO.com, you can also get your TU FICO from transunioncs.com (note the -cs) and from your lender. Finally, as of last year, Experian no longer allows consumers to pull their own EX FICO score, but you can get it from your lender or on your checking statement if you happen to have a checking account with a CU in PA called PSECU. Any other score from any other source are not FICO scores, but a knock-off we call FAKOs. Lenders don't use these FAKO scores.

 

Next, watch our for your state's SOL. Each state has it's own statute of limitations on unpaid debts. Doing anything to these debts (e.g. sending letters, offering to pay)will increase collection activity. If inside SOL, you could get sued. If SOL had not expired, then make sure you have the $$$ to PIF if you had to saved up so you could PIF to stop any judgment from appearing if it ever came to that (not likely). IF SOL had not expired or if you don't have the $$$ to PIF on any given debt, then wait it out. SOL goes off the DOFD. You can find DOFD on your reports if you pull your free ones from annualcreditreport.com.

 

What to tackle first? IMO, go after the newest debt as those are most damaging. Per FICO scoring, it doesn't matter if you owe $0 or $10,000, the damage is the same with regards to collection or charge-offs. Snow ball method is great, but IMO, on a scoring standpoint, it is best used on open and active account slike your SL. A $0 collection is equal to a $10,000 as mentioned with regards to FICO.

 

You may want to start with a CC first. IMO, visit your local CU and ask if they offer secured credit cards. If you app right now, you'll very likely get denied due to not having any credit and your payment history. A secured card would limit the damage to one inquiry and you get to control the CL. And it doesn't matter hwat that CL is. FICO doesn't care if it is $100 or $1000; FICO only cares about the balance that reports in relation to that CC's CL. So, it is equally beneficial to have $10 report on a $100 CL CC as it is for a $100 balance reporting on a $1000 CC. Higher CLs are easier to manage though. Getting this first CC to report will be a big score booster. A second down the road will help too, though I'd focus on repair first before the second.

 

1) With the SL, send a GW letter asking them for a favor in removing any lates.

 

4) & 5) If CapOne is reporting a balance, then they didn't sell the debt but will usually assign a CA to collect for them. They still own it. CapOne LOVES to sue. They love to sue right up to the SOL. If they are reporting a balance, I would save as much as possible and PIF or settle with them on both debts. It is extremely rare that they accept PFDs (I don't recall any). Your best bet is to pay them off and send GW letters. I would pay in one payment. Don't send payments overtime as that might reset your SOL each time. I'd PIF to improve the odds of getting a GW accepted, or you could try to negotiate (they will). A remark on your credit report of "paid for less than full" or "settled" is a negative, score-damaging remark. However, if you PIF they'll say "paid charge-off" which is just as bad.

 

Now if CapOne reports $0 on both, then ignore CapOne for the moment and send a DV to the CA. If they verify and you agree, then send a PFD with your $$$ offer. After it is paid, then you can send a GW to CapOne.

 

6) Gym - If the gym is reporting a balance, then they own the debt. You'd want to then send a PFD. If they aren't reporting and the CA reports, then send a DV. If they verify and you agree, then send a PFD.

 

7) & 8) Utilities - If they are reporting a balance, then they own the debt. You'd want to then send a PFD. If they aren't reporting and the CA reports, then send a DV. If they verify and you agree, then send a PFD.

 

9) & 10) Cellular - If they are reporting a balance, then they own the debt. You'd want to then send a PFD. If they aren't reporting and the CA reports, then send a DV. If they verify and you agree, then send a PFD.

 

2) and 3) Medical - Two options: follow HIPAA or do the DV-PFD combo. If you follow the HIPAA process (google HIPAA process for more info), then it usually involves paying them (the OC, not the CA) in full and then starting the process. If you go the DV-PFD route, then send a DV to the CA. If verified and you agree, then send a PFD.

 

 

 

ETA...out-typed by MVV!

 

Message 3 of 3
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