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Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the report

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Anonymous
Not applicable

Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the report

Hi.  I just found out I have a collection from 2011 that has gone active as of 12/2016.  Its for an OLD acct I thought was paid but must not have been.  I dont have any receipt.  I attempted to answer the calls from the Collection company, however every time I answer there isn't anyone on the other end of the phone and then it disconnects.  So I disputed this collection on all 3 bureaus.  I will be putting my house on the market in the spring and hopefully buying a new home by summer.  Therfore, I want to get this taken off before I attempt a new mortgage.  My questions are:

 

1.  Should I have disputed it?  Will that adversely affect me and my score?

2.  If I choose to pay it in full, how do I get the Collection Agency to a) take this off my credit and b) give me a letter saying that its been paid

3.  What is the best way to handle this situation since I am trying to get a new mortgage in 6 months.

 

I have mid-700 score... my last late payment was 2 1/2 years ago.  Therefore this is the only blemish on my bureau. 

 

Thank you for your help peeps!  Smiley Happy

6 REPLIES 6
nmjacobs
Contributor

Re: Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the re

Did your lender say you need this off? I would not do anything until you talk with them. Many do not require you to do anything with unpaid collections under $2,000.
Message 2 of 7
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the re

Thanks NMjacbobs.  Its $2410 total.  I haven't talked with any lenders yet b/c of this.. I didn't want anyone pulling my credit until I looked at it first and made sure it was all good.  But that's good to know.  Since its over $2000 then I may have to take care of it again, right? 

Message 3 of 7
nolamike
Frequent Contributor

Re: Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the re

Hi Meluchi5

 

Sorry to hear you got a curve ball at the end of the year.

Don’t EVER admit you owe the debt. Don’t EVER talk to the collection agents on the phone. Don’t EVER agree to pay anything until you know all the facts and options.

 

There are some things you need to find out first BEFORE you make any choices.

 

1) If the Statute of Limitations (SOL) has run out on that debt. If it has you are judgement proof, however another date comes from the FCRA and it allows them to report the debt for 7-7.5 years. Both rely on the Date of First Delinquency (DOFD). Knowing this date is imperative to any choice you make!

 

2) The DOFD NEVER changes. NO matter how many times an account is sold this date is always the same and MUST be reported correctly by whomever is reporting the debt to the CRA’s. otherwise you sue and win!

 

3) To find the true DOFD the easiest way is through your Free Annual Credit reports. I have found recently (through hard experience) that there can be a difference between what the electronic documents obtained through the online process shows and what the mailed document show. I would go with the slower mail requests, but it is up to you.

 

4) These reports do not give a score but they give details, and must show all account activity and by federal law it must be valid. Things that have aged past their shelf life will not be on this report, only things currently affecting your credit will be here, plus current soft inquiries.

 

5) The different CRA’s can show it in different ways. You will look for one of two things (if both are there make sure they jive). You will look for field that says DOFD (or something similar) and that date must be the date that caused the account to go into collections. If it does not show a DOFD directly look for a note that says “account will remain on report until XX/YYYY. This is your starting information.

 

6) for SOL it is easy to figure if it does not show the actual DOFD. Take the XX/YYYY month and year for it to remain on your report and subtract 7. To that month year add your states SOL. (you must research that and it depends on the type of account that is in collections). IF that year has passed then the SOL has run its course.

 

7) for FCRA reporting purposes it might be a little more complicated. That law allows a debt to be reported for 7 years PLUS 180 days from the DOFD. This is why the DOFD for FCRA purposes must NEVER change no matter who buys the collection account.

 

8) Date of Last Activity and Date Reported are NOT the DOFD, no matter what a collection agent says. They mean squat in terms of knowing if you can be sued or how long the item can stay on your report. They do present other opportunities to dispute the entry.

 

9) you MUST be aware that there is some fuzzy language in the FCRA that can allow a Collection Agency to try and claim a different DOFD. This occurs if they bought the debt and the OC or selling CA did not provide the correct DOFD. Don’t despair because in a lawsuit this works for you if the SOL has passed.

 

10) if the SOL has passed you are judgement proof but the CA is still able to try and collect the debt from you and may try trickery, lies, deceit, threats and harassment. They will be breaking the law and you can sue the stuffing out of them if you can prove it. So document EVERYTHING and EVERY date.

 

However, there is a caveat that you must be aware of and is why you NEVER talk to them on the phone, you communicate only in writing. If you even remotely admit to owing that debt or agreeing to pay something towards it (like a plan) you immediately reset all the clocks. This becomes a new contract modifying your rights and putting you on the hook. That debt will be on your reports for 7-7.5 years past the date you make the last payment.

 

11) If you choose to try and get a PFD, nifty, but get it in writing and never admit to owing anything or give them a single cent. If you try this and are following the advice to only communicate in writing, phrase it something like. “While this is not my debt, your attack on my credit is not worth going to court over for this amount of money...”. This type phrasing prevents them from using your attempt to PFD, which is an Offer in Compromise, to prove you own the debt in case the PFD negotiations fail.

 

12) If they threaten a lawsuit do not ignore it. They will get a default judgement if you do. If your SOL has passed, and they sue, you must AFFIRM a positive defense based on SOL in the FIRST communication with the court. You cannot bring it up later in most courts. The affirmation then places the burden on the CA to PROVE with documentation that the original DOFD is what they claim it is. They usually do not have this documentation, and that means YOU WIN.

 

Some CA’s just have a mean streak and will tease you along to get a provable admission and then sue you. This is because a Judgement lasts longer than a credit report collection and does more damage to your score, and they know that. It becomes more leverage against you.

 

Things to never do!

1) Speak to a collection agent on the phone!

2) admit to owing a debt!

3) agree to pay until you have all the facts, don’t even hmm and haw about it. That debt is not yours is all you want to say.

4) Don’t be afraid of the courts. Just know your rights and the rules!

5) Don’t be impatient. There are specific number of days each action is allowed to take. If you rush and they don’t get enough time to finish in those dates you reset the clock on how much time they have.

 

--------

Things you should do!

1) Find the DOFD

2) Find the SOL

3) communicate only in writing

 

4) The very first letter should be a Debt Verification letter. This should be generically polite, not threaten lawsuits or mention laws or even show you know your detailed rights. You should ask them for the DOFD, Account history of payments from original creditor, who they got the loan from, when, and was it a bulk purchase. If you try to do a verify through the online CRA dispute they will simple respond “yep its valid”, if you force them to write a letter, one they know has also gone to the CRA’s, they know the clock is ticking and that they must either verify the information or remove the entry from your report. Don’t be surprised if they respond with a form letter that does not give you the answers, just move to the next step.

In this same letter you will NEVER admit to owing the debt and you will tell them to only communicate with you in writing. Send this Signature Required. Return Receipt Requested through the U.S. Mail. All communication must be done this way!

 

5) collect any mailed communication from them including the envelope.

 

6) anytime they call, let it go to voice mail. Note the time and date and store the voicemail in a safe space like Google Drive. Name it with the date and time the call came in for further use.

 

7) go through your cell phone bills and look for calls under 1 minute. Search the internet for these numbers. You will find out which ones are reported as belonging to CA. Note the date, time and duration. That info may show they are breaking your demand to only communicate in writing. Then you sue them for that under FDCP which is yet another law.

 

8) Anything you send to them, keep the receipt and the return receipt with signature. Keep a copy of the letter. This is to the CA and CRA. This proves the dates which are imperative.

 

9) search the forums for samples of all the letters you might have to write to get the wording correct.

 

10) find out if your state has stronger protections than Federal Law, some like Texas do and have fines up to $10K for each violation.

 

To be blunt most people are not organized enough to handle this themselves and not screw up the timing and content.

 

Consider turning this over to Collection Shield 360, Lexington Law or some other debt attorney. I know that CS360 does this for free and only makes money if they get to sue on your behalf.  You even get 20% or a minimum of $200 if they win your case. You never pay a fee. I don’t know about any others. They can make money because court costs and legal fees are allowed under the law.

 

 

Good Luck and keep us informed! We are all rooting for you

Mike

Starting Score: EQ 628 | TU 643 | EXP 618
Fico 8 12/22/16: EQ 658 | TU 682 | EXP 721
Next Goal:        700's across the board
Credit Karma:   EQ 554 | TU 551
CK 12/22/2016: EQ 637 | TU 637
Message 4 of 7
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the re

THANK YOU!!! This is all GREAT information. I'm going to start going through my old reports. I think I kept a few of them when I was getting my mortgage. THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!
Message 5 of 7
nolamike
Frequent Contributor

Re: Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the re

Meluchi5,

 

Everyone here is or has been somewhere near where you are on one issue or another.

 Many people will offer opinions, and some will offer advice.

 

Anything anyone tells you, me included, you must research further on your own to make the best decision for you and your situation.

 

Some people who just got a collection in say the last year might want to negotiate and pay it off, others like me who had not checked their credit in over a year and get blind sided by a collection that is not valid or not theirs might want to fight.

 

Some one who has managed to avoid a lawsuit and the collection will fall off in a couple months, meh! they may want to just wait out the few months.

 

Only you what is best for you.

 

As an opinion, I say NEVER go to a Credit Repair outfit, particularly one that charges you or sets some long term package payment plan. Most are not going to do more than the average person can with a little organization and research.

 

I also say that if you are going to fight it, DO go to a law firm that works on spec. Let them do the heavy lifting. Before you do, research what it is that is wrong and what you can document the CA has done (right or wrong) so you know what to expect and what to tell the attorney and provide them if you have documentation. Doing it on the first meeting speeds things up.

 

I wish you luck and hope you will keep us all informed about your path and progress. It is great to hear when success happens and the vultures are beaten back.

 

Mike

 

[update edit] Couple things I should have mentioned before hitting post.

 

If you go the route of communicating and disputing this yourself some things you should do and avoid doing.

 

Saying "debt is not mine" is the easy low hanging fruit, and that you did it on line gets you the automated "yes it is". You might see a notation on the item that says "Customer disputes the account. Meets FCRA requirements." or something very similar.

 

don't sweat that. In my case it is only on TU, EQ says I dispute it, nothing more and it is not on EXP.

 

NEVER use the same dispute claim twice. IF you do it will be an automatic rejection and they will be able to say you are filing "frivolous" claims.

 

Once you figure out the things they have done wrong and any violations of FCRA, FCDPA, SOL, or other laws, dispute them ONE AT A TIME with the CRA. These must be factual disputes .

 

Not all errors are violations and in fact the result may just be that the CA updates the account record to fix the "clerical" cough cough error. That is okay, don't sweat it. Move to next factual dispute.

 

If  you have not spoken to the CA, DON"T, but if you did and made even a vague hint about paying, they can try and claim that you reset the SOL. You did not unless they have a signed statement / contract with you. A voice recording might work in some states, but it must be specific and clearly state they are recording the call and that you are knowingly agreeing to a contract/payment plan.

 

If that never happened, then again be prepared to sue / possibly get sued. Be prepared to swear to the truth you never made any such agreement, knowingly or other wise and that the SOL ran out (if it did) in the very first communication / response to a court over a lawsuit.

 

A credit card account that went delinquent in 2011 will be out of SOL in most states by now assuming you did not agree to pay the debt. However, some states have 6 year SOL's on this type debt. consider this carefully in any action you take. As an example if your DOFD was 12/2011 and your SOL is 6 years, then 12/2017 the SOL clock runs out.

 

IF you are judgement proof on the debt your potential mortgage lender may or may not care, no matter the amount, each will be different. The fact the property is not in peril from a judgement makes their decision to lend easier, but again each mortgage lender is different.

 

in that situation some people might choose to hunker down and wait out 2017. Avoiding rocking the boat and hoping the CA does not file a suit. Others will choose a different path.

 

Just know that once you communicate with them they may accelerate their strategy to pressure you to pay.

 

Read the forums and ask questions, post what you think is right and ask for suggestions. People with experience will help.

 

Good luck

Mike

 

Starting Score: EQ 628 | TU 643 | EXP 618
Fico 8 12/22/16: EQ 658 | TU 682 | EXP 721
Next Goal:        700's across the board
Credit Karma:   EQ 554 | TU 551
CK 12/22/2016: EQ 637 | TU 637
Message 6 of 7
rmduhon
Valued Contributor

Re: Collection from The Bureaus - how to get it in writing its paid AND when does it come off the re

Credit reporting time period can not be reset. Once the 7.5 years has passed that debt (assuming it's not a judgement, federally backed student loan) can not be re-added to your reports. SOL can, however, be reset in certain states/situations
Message 7 of 7
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