Wow that is intimidating. First off is that combined or individual credit info? 2nd what is sol in your state. 3rd what kind of financial resources do you guys have to pay those off?
LIMITS IN CARD DESCRIPTIONS
Look up sol for your current state. How long have you lived there. As FYI if you don't know, sol refers to the time limit that creditor can sue you successfully for debt. Problem with attacking creditor before sol, is that you may be waking them up and then you have to deal with lawsuits. The 500 a month seems more than enough to work on your issues. Personally, you should be working on Pfd on your most recent baddies as they will be last to come off. Make sure you have positive credit lines as well via secured credit cards. Mistake people make is working on their baddies but not building positive credit history as same time
Your situation is not entirely unlike mine was. I had 19 collection accounts when I started. I am down to three, and it took me less than 2 years to go from sub-500 to plus-700 and I am closing on a house this month. So it is doable. And I don't really think this is entirely intiimdating.
The SOLs on the debts that you posted in a previous post only relates to if you can be sued for the debt. Most of your accounts appear to be small so I don't know if you will be sued anytime soon on them, it is possible however.
I see no repossions, no judgments, no tax liens, no forclosure. Appears to me to be pretty straight forward colleciton accounts and those are often plausible to get alot, if not all of them, removed.
I didn't use many DVs -- I sent a few, but I guess in my situation I knew all the accounts were legit and just wanted to take care of it. I dont nessicarily think this is the correct way per say, its just what I did. I am sure others will chime in.
Couple points right off the bat: I see alot of small collection accounts. $57, $81, ect ect. Most tactics would have you send PFDs for those, offering full amounts in exchange for deletion. I would add something to that which worked for me. I paid all my colleciton accounts that were under $500 in full if PFD negotiations failed. Here is why: The CA's almost all deleted after the fact because in my GW letters I mentioned that I 'paid in full without haggling' -- This isn't a sure fire thing, but since they are small, that is what I would do if they didn't accept the PFD request. Plus, paid in full looks a LOT better than settled less than full balance to undewriters if you are unsuccessful in removing the accounts. Because ultimately, the goal is to get a house correct? 
Please define charge offs when you get a chance. I am assuming which ones I think are chargeoffs, but I am unclear.
I also noticed you are carrying pretty high balances on a couple of those credit cards (Navy Fed ect ect) -- Utilization is a huge factor in credit scoring. You could gain points without any other report changes just by getting those cards down.
So, if this is my credit report, this is how I would handle these accounts. Everyone has different results, different methods. This is what I personally would do, or have done.
Derogatory Accounts:
ALLIANCE ONE- collection- date opened 10/2010 – balance $57.00
I would send a PFD request, maybe multiples. If they are unwilling to do this, I would PIF and then send a GW asking for deletion.
ALLIANCE ONE – collection- date opened 1/2010 – balance $81.00
I would send a PFD request, maybe multiples. If they are unwilling to do this, I would PIF and then send a GW asking for deletion.
ENHANCED RECOVERY – collection – date opened – 10/2009 balance $124.00
*Sent DV 1/31/12; never heard response
I would send a PFD request, maybe multiples. If they are unwilling to do this, I would PIF and then send a GW asking for deletion.
GENESIS FINANCIAL SOLUTION – collection – date opened 6/2011- balance $199.00 (OC is CITIFINGERHUT & METABANK)
I would first send a PFD and see if they will accept that. If you have no luck, personally, I would pay in full and use that to try to GW away this, and the OC account. Many have had good luck paying in full and using GW to remove account. CA's often are more receptive to deletion if you have paid them in full for a debt they bought for pennies on the dollar, especially since this is a small account. Plus, I had luck with HSBC by paying the collection company (in my case Portfolio Recover) in full, and sending a GW letter to HSBC indicating I paid in full and would they consider removal. HSBC already wrote off and sold the debt, so they weren't made whole of the debt, but it does show willingness as a consumer to make good on obligation, and I think that worked for me.
LNLV FUNDING – collection (EX has listed as debt purchase; EQ & TU listed as open account)
Date opened 1/2009 – Balance $902.00 (OC is First National Bank) - is this debt legitimate? Did you ever recieve a dunning notice from them? Many of us (including myself) have gotten LVNV removed because the did not send a dunning notice nor did they stop collection efforts after sending a timely DV (since they never sent a dunning, any DV is timely). Filed a BBB complaint and it was gone in 20 days. You can search for the many threads (some good, some bad) about dealing with LVNV or you can PM me and I will send you my situation and what I exactly said.
ALLIANCE ONE – collection – date opened 5/2007 – balance $0; paid - Charge off or collection? You could GW these after you pay or have those other ones removed, citing the other two accounts. If you PFD the other two, send a GW for this one, or if you PIF and send GWs on those other two, send one for this one too.
CCS/FIRST NATIONAL BANK – collection – date opened 4/2003 – balance $0 – DOFD 8/2005
This one is going to fall off. You should just wait this one out.
CITIFINGERHUT – collection – date opened 1/2009 – balance $0.00 DOFD 7/2009
My guess is this is a charge off for that collection account. You can start sending GWs on it if you'd like, but I always waited until the debt was paid even if they have no obligation to it anymore, just to show I have 'changed' if you will.
METABANK/FINGERHUT – collection – date opened 1/2009 – balance $0 (no DOFD, EQ reported OK) (Genesis is CO; same account as CITIFINGERHUT; can they report twice like that?) Any collection company that has owned the account can report it, it just has to have a $0 dollar balance if they not longer have it. You can try a DV. I have often had accounts like this removed by DVing them. Some people would advise to dispute through the CRAs and I, in fact, did that and succeeded on one account. After reading up on this forum the last two years, I don't know if thats the best way to go. YMMV
HSBC BANK – collection – date opened 8/2005 – balance $0 – DOFD 3/2006, this should come off your credit report in a little over a year, so if your in no rush (meaning in the next year) to buy a home, I would just ignore this. You could send a GW if you would like. Is this a Charge Off or collection and did you pay it?
MACYS – collection – date opened 12/2008 – balance $545 – DOFD 6/2009.
Is this a charge off or collection? If Macy's still owns it (showing a balance) have you contacted them to consider payment in full? They may work with you if you can offer them something. Call them to see if its in collections yet
SECURE FIRST CREDIT UNION – date opened 7/2003 – balance $173 DOFD unknown (overdrawn account that I rarely used. Was originally $20; NSF fees continued until current balance) - I would pay this off, and then GW them telling them about barely using it. Do you know the DOFD on it though? It may not be collectible, and it maybe falling off soon.
POSITIVE ACCOUNTS:
WELLS FARFO AUTO FINANCE - auto loan-closed– paid in full; quite a few 30,60 past dues in 2009-2010 (plan on sending GW to get lates deleted) This is probably not really a positive account if you have 30 and 60 day lates this recent.
MILITARY STAR – opened 12/2008 -current – balance 2525.00; limit 3000.00; pays as agreed
NAVY FED CC – opened 2/2012 – current – balance $414; limit $500; pays as agreed
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS – opened 10/2008 –balance $3587; pays as agreed
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS– opened 3/2005 (account status on EX & EQ still reporting as open, but paid off) – current, pays as agreed (will it help to ask them to close these since the account is closed?)
GRAND FURNITURE – opened 2/2009 – closed- paid as agreed
OMNI FINANCIAL - opened 10/2007(closed 5/2007) – closed – paid as agreed
OMNI FINANCIAL – opened 7/2005(closed 2/2007) – closed – paid as agreed
OMNI FINANCIAL – opened 11/2008(closed 7/2010) – closed – paid as agreed ( 5 30 day lates) (sent GW for late adjustment)
These 30 day lates are probably showing no impact right now, as you have many negative entries and 30 day lates fade after 2 years. I would put this on the backburner for now.
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS – opened 8/2006 (closed 6/2007) – closed – paid as agreed
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS – opened 4/2008(closed 10/2008) – closed – paid as agreed
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS – opened 6/2007 (closed 4/2008) – closed- paid as agreed
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS – opened 2/2003 (closed 4/2004) – EX states “credit line closed-consumer request-reported by subscriber -(What does that mean?)”; EQ states “paid account/zero balance”; TU states “account closed by consumer” -- Reported by subscriber means Pioneer Milarty Loans, who subscribes to the CRA to report, is reporting consumer closed the account.
PIONEER MILITARY LOANS – opened 4/2002(closed 1/2003); EQ states “paid account, zero balance” EX not reporting; TU states “closed”
USAA (auto loan) opened 5/99; closed; EX states “credit line closed-consumer request-reported by subscriber”; EQ & TU not reporting
WFDS/WDS (auto loan) – opened 4/02; closed; paid as agreed
Sorry for the long post, and other will have comments and counter-tactics for how I would handle these, but this is what I felt would be the best way to take care of this.
GOOD LUCK!
-scott