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Insight & Guidance Requested

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Anonymous
Not applicable

Insight & Guidance Requested

I’ve been reading these boards for about 3 weeks now, and it’s amazing how much it’s quite literally changed my life in such a short period of time.  Just the overall feeling of support on a topic that’s usually wrought with disdain and embarrassment has been so incredibly uplifting.  I also never realized how shockingly little I understood about credit and FICO scores.

 

After about 10 years of completely thrashing my credit, most of it due to my own recklessness, I’ve spent the last 5 trying to fix everything.  I have several open lines of credit that I’ve been paying on time, and my scores have been gaining ground over the last 6 months (663 TU, 640 EQ, 647 EX - FAKO).  Of course looking over the reports has led to a ton of other questions and curiosities over what I can do next which I’m hoping people here can help me with.

 

If any of these should be broken into separate threads, please let me know.

 

1)      My utilization is being reported at about 60-65%, but is actually under 20% right now.  Realistically, how much of a bump could I expect if I got it to 0-5%?

 

2)      What’s the easiest way to find the DoFD?  I’m all but certain that at least a couple of things on my report should have long since dropped off, but all I can find are Last Activity dates which are a lot more current since I paid everything I owed. 

 

3)      Along the same lines, I opened a Sears card in college that I know they closed the line of credit well more than 7 years ago.  Wouldn’t this indicate that the DoFD was more than 7 years ago and should have dropped off?  Would the fact that I just finally completed paying it off keep it on?

 

4)      Did I **bleep** myself by paying everything off and losing the leverage of a PFD?

 

5)      Aside from Sears, the most recent activity from a negative item on my credit report is from Capital One, which has 120+ day late from ’07.  In the last year I’ve opened up 2 new cards with Cap1.  I’ve read that they’re notoriously difficult to work with respect to GW letters, but is it possible that the fact that I have 2 current accounts with them PIF could help with this?

 

I have a bunch of other questions, but I’ll start with these for now.  I appreciate any help and/or insight that could be offered.

 

 

Message 1 of 8
7 REPLIES 7
mauve
Valued Contributor

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested

 


@Anonymous wrote:

I’ve been reading these boards for about 3 weeks now, and it’s amazing how much it’s quite literally changed my life in such a short period of time.  Just the overall feeling of support on a topic that’s usually wrought with disdain and embarrassment has been so incredibly uplifting.  I also never realized how shockingly little I understood about credit and FICO scores.

 

After about 10 years of completely thrashing my credit, most of it due to my own recklessness, I’ve spent the last 5 trying to fix everything.  I have several open lines of credit that I’ve been paying on time, and my scores have been gaining ground over the last 6 months (663 TU, 640 EQ, 647 EX - FAKO).  Of course looking over the reports has led to a ton of other questions and curiosities over what I can do next which I’m hoping people here can help me with.

 

If any of these should be broken into separate threads, please let me know.

 

1)      My utilization is being reported at about 60-65%, but is actually under 20% right now.  Realistically, how much of a bump could I expect if I got it to 0-5%?

Do you maybe have something mis-reporting as revolving?  Or a closed account that you were paying on?  You could see a decent bump (probably in the vicinity of 20 points) going from 20 - 5%.  Also, if you recently paid that down, your creditors probably report about once a month, so expect a lag.

 

2)      What’s the easiest way to find the DoFD?  I’m all but certain that at least a couple of things on my report should have long since dropped off, but all I can find are Last Activity dates which are a lot more current since I paid everything I owed. 

 

You're going to find DoFD on TU's report, I believe, and an expected date of drop off on EX and EQ.  I could be remembering wrong which is which.  To get the reports that include this info, you should go to annualcreditreport.com and get your free annual reports from each of the CRAs.  If you've already pulled your yearly free reports, you can purchase them from their sites, as well.  Remember to .pdf or print them out to make sure you have them handy - they're the most complete reports you can get.

 

3)      Along the same lines, I opened a Sears card in college that I know they closed the line of credit well more than 7 years ago.  Wouldn’t this indicate that the DoFD was more than 7 years ago and should have dropped off?  Would the fact that I just finally completed paying it off keep it on?

 

Negative information will drop off about 7 years from the date of first delinquency.  The account itself will turn positive once all of the negative information drops off and will continue to help you for 10 years after it was closed, as a general rule. 

 

4)      Did I **bleep** myself by paying everything off and losing the leverage of a PFD?

 

No.  You avoided being sued and probably getting new "updated" negative reporting on your reports.  You should start a GW campaign now.

 

5)      Aside from Sears, the most recent activity from a negative item on my credit report is from Capital One, which has 120+ day late from ’07.  In the last year I’ve opened up 2 new cards with Cap1.  I’ve read that they’re notoriously difficult to work with respect to GW letters, but is it possible that the fact that I have 2 current accounts with them PIF could help with this?

 

Sure, Capital One is hard to deal with.  People sometimes have success with them.  Hang in there, either the negative info will drop off in 2014 OR you'll succeed at GW efforts before then.  Just send them a GW letter about once a month - maybe vary to whom you address them.  Maybe call them once in a while to ask for mercy. 

 

I have a bunch of other questions, but I’ll start with these for now.  I appreciate any help and/or insight that could be offered.

 

 


 


Starting Score: EQ 583 TU04 619 EX 592 (lender pull) 2010
Previous High Score: EQ 700 TU04 712 EX 726
Current Score: EQ 740 TU(Discover) 750 EX(AMEX) 747
Goal Score: 740+ all around


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Message 2 of 8
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested

Thanks so much for the info.  I truly appreciate it.  I think I'll call both Sears/Citi and Capital One tonight while clutching a rabbit's foot, and then start sending letters out tomorrow.  That in mind, If I'm able to have the negative items removed, I wouldn't have anything negative in the last 5-6 years.  Am I correct in assuming that the older something is, the less weight it has on a report?

 

And the one other thing I should have mentioned.  I got a car loan in August, and on 2 of the reports it's showing 8 separate inquiries from when I was rate shopping.  My understanding is that in an instance like that, it's only supposed to show as 1 inquiry.  Is there an easy remedy for that?  Is it just opening a dispute with the bureaus? 

Message 3 of 8
MarineVietVet
Moderator Emeritus

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested


@Anonymous wrote:

Thanks so much for the info.  I truly appreciate it.  I think I'll call both Sears/Citi and Capital One tonight while clutching a rabbit's foot, and then start sending letters out tomorrow.  That in mind, If I'm able to have the negative items removed, I wouldn't have anything negative in the last 5-6 years.  Am I correct in assuming that the older something is, the less weight it has on a report?

 

And the one other thing I should have mentioned.  I got a car loan in August, and on 2 of the reports it's showing 8 separate inquiries from when I was rate shopping.  My understanding is that in an instance like that, it's only supposed to show as 1 inquiry.  Is there an easy remedy for that?  Is it just opening a dispute with the bureaus? 


Hello and welcome.

 

For scoring purposes those inquiries are lumped together. The individual inquiries are all there but a future lender should be able to tell (under manual review) that all of them were done while shopping for a car.

 

Also to make a very small correction to something mauve said the full EQ report should have the DoFD while TU and EX will have the drop off dates. At least in my experience.

 

 

 

From a BK years ago to:
EX - 9/09 pulled by lender 802, EQ - 2/11-816, TU - 2/11-782

"Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem".

Message 4 of 8
mauve
Valued Contributor

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested

Yeah, I couldn't remember which one was the odd report out. 


Starting Score: EQ 583 TU04 619 EX 592 (lender pull) 2010
Previous High Score: EQ 700 TU04 712 EX 726
Current Score: EQ 740 TU(Discover) 750 EX(AMEX) 747
Goal Score: 740+ all around


Take the myFICO Fitness Challenge
Message 5 of 8
LIGHTNIN
Senior Contributor

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested

 


@Anonymous wrote:

Thanks so much for the info.  I truly appreciate it.  I think I'll call both Sears/Citi and Capital One tonight while clutching a rabbit's foot, and then start sending letters out tomorrow.  That in mind, If I'm able to have the negative items removed, I wouldn't have anything negative in the last 5-6 years.  Am I correct in assuming that the older something is, the less weight it has on a report?

 

And the one other thing I should have mentioned.  I got a car loan in August, and on 2 of the reports it's showing 8 separate inquiries from when I was rate shopping.  My understanding is that in an instance like that, it's only supposed to show as 1 inquiry.  Is there an easy remedy for that?  Is it just opening a dispute with the bureaus? 


 

Yes that's true I know with CA's,they hurt less and less as time goes on.

A recent CA can hurt as much as 80-100pts and IME when my last CA dropped from my CR's, I saw no score change.

 

Now if you are comparing one baddie to another, that is a different story.Some baddies hurts more then others.

Like a 90late reporting in Jan2011 will hurt more, then a recent 30day late reporting this mo march2011.

With that being said, I would suggest sending the GW letters to the baddies that was hurting your CS the most,then work on the others hurting less.

 

Info on inquiries, they report for 2years but only hurt your CS for 1 year.

 

Congrats to YOU, for paying down your CC's to 20%, I bet that is a wonderful feeling. 

 

Now if you want to feel even better and sleep better at night,start an emergency fund. In case if your income decreases,you'll have money to pull from the emergency fund, until your income increases again.By doing that, you will avoid the lates and CA's showing up on your CR's,because they never happened..Also you will be saving money by not having to pay the extra fees associated with late pymts and the CA's.IMO, having an emergency fund is the best thing I ever done.

 

Oh and BTW, Welcome to the forums, and I must say your nicely spaced post was very easy to read and understand.Smiley WinkSo for lurkers out there wanting to post....it's post like these tend to get more replies.Good Work, lippakid. Glad to see you joined our family, here at myFICO.

FICO's May 2015 EQ764 ~~Live below your means and always keep an emergency fund -Love Everybody ~ Big Kenny ~ Big and Rich ~~~~~Credit Scoring 101 - Common Abbreviations - Freq Req Threads - Free Credit Reports - What Steps Do I Take?DV? PFD?
Message 6 of 8
RobertEG
Legendary Contributor

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested

There are several ways to get your approximate DOFD, one way to get your reported DOFD, and only one sure way to get your actual DOFD.

First, remember that DOFD only has relevance with respect to determining the statutory fall off date of a CO or CA from your CR.  It has no use in determining the continuance of other derogs, such as monthly delinquencies reported by the OC rior to a CO or CA.

If you know how DOFD is estalished, you can get its approx. date by looking at your credit history profile in the last credit report you have in which monthly account drogs were listed.  Find the last chain of delinquency preceeding the CO or CA, and then find the first delinquency in that chain.  That is your approx. DOFD.

The second way to determine your DOFD is to look at what has been reported by the OC to the CRA.  This is usually not posted in commercial consumer credit reports, but can be obtained direclty from the CRA simply by sending them a letter under FCRA 609(a)(1), requesting the DOFD posted to your credit file by the OC (your FCRA 623(a)(5) date), and enclosing the fee required for this request under FCRA 612(f), which is currently $10.50.  However, jsut because the OC has reported a DOFD does not necessarily make it accurate.

The only accurate way to determine your legal DOFD is based on billing statements from the OC.  If you dont have old account records, or cant get them, you will be forced to rely upon what the OC has posted to your credit file under FCRA 623(a)(5). 

Once you have your DOFD, add 7 years plus 180-days to it, and that is the maximum time it can continue to appear in your CR under FCRA 605(c).

 

Accounts dont drop based on any of the CR exclusion periods under FCRA 605(a), including any time from DOFD.  What drops from your CR are only the derogatory items listed in FCRA 605(a).

Message 7 of 8
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Insight & Guidance Requested

Thanks again, everyone.  This is all great information and clears up a lot of things on which I was unclear.  I've had a streak of good fortune lately, so I'm hoping that continues with the GW letters.  I think if I'm able to make headway with Sears/Citi and Capital One, I should get into at least the high 600's.  

Message 8 of 8
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