Lexington Law

[gdale6]

The open date of a collection is not the same as the DoFD, the DoFD is set by the OC and its a set in stone date by law.

[medicgrrl]

Have you pulled your reports from annualcreditreport.com? That will show the DOFD and when an account should be excluded. The open date is only the date that specific collection agency received collection authority and is not the same as the DOFD.

[Anonymous]

I hadn't tried the annual credit report but I just did and it wouldn't give it to me because it says there are open disputes going on. I'm sure that is from LL. You guys are probably right about looking at the wrong date. I am just looking at the date that is given by the current creditors and I'm sure it's not th fdod. I appreciate that info. In yalls opinion would I be better off staying with LL and seeing what they can do or save the money to pay off old debt. Like I said the total about in collections is now less than $2000. I could easily pay it today but want to do it the right way knowing it will be removed.

[medicgrrl]

You can do everything that LL is doing. It's just a matter of investing some time into it. Requesting PFD's would be your best option because it's a legitimate way of removing the tradelines thru agreement between you and the creditor/collection agency.

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for your replies and help. I spoke with LL again this morning and they told me that the clock did restart every time the debt was sold, I know now is not true. I was very specific on my question and she told me wrong. I did get one report from the annual credit report and it did have the dates that things would be removed. From the info on the report all of my negative items will be gone by July 2018. I will be calling LL in the morning and canceling my subscription. I already have a house so I am in no hurry and can wait until next summer. In the mean time I will continue to pay on my truck( paid off January 2018) and actually use my ccs to build the credit. It was a relief seeing that they will all be gone by next summer. Thanks again for all the input!

[medicgrrl]

That's great!! Definitely pull the other 2 reports after your disputes are resolved.

[Anonymous]

Here's the key. When asking for verified or validate. You or they need to Validate that this is your item. People can so call verify anything without proof. But unless they can validate it. It can be disputed and removed. Also ask for written information. So just in case they suddenly want to become hard to deal with.

[Anonymous]

• So what am I to do when the dofd is not accurate? For instance I have a collector reporting that the dish network account was opened in 2014 but I have not had dish, nor made any payments since the account was canceled in 2008.  I am not expecting a magic wand to be waved and fix my problems, I caused them and I want to do what I need to fix them. As I said I am new to rebuilding my credit and am more than willing to pay my debt or pay someone to fix it if need be. The reason I tried Lexington law was because after reading so much about how creditors can take advantage I figured it was a good idea to have someone in my corner that knew the laws. I'm not saying LL is a fraud and I know it has worked for millions of customers. All I am asking is for advice on what direction to go. Should I stay with them and give them more time? Or should I cancel it and use that money to get PFD? Or should I take another route that maybe I don't know about?

If you are certain that the Dish Network account was cancelled in 2008, then the item should not be listed on your credit report. I have had a few negative items that were showing on my credit report incorrectly (over 7 years old). I disputed them with the CBs via certified letters and the result from the investigation were that they were reporting correctly. After that, I sent another round of certified letters to the CBs asking them to advise which methods that they used to verify the debt and respond within 15 days of the date on my letter or delete the item from my credit report. The item was deleted on all three reports. 

I used Lexington Law at the beginning of the year and did not see results with them. The two items that they claimed to delete came from open investigations with the CBs that I had started two weeks prior to signing up. I gave them 4 months and no changes before I cancelled. I started researching online and have better luck on my own getting items deleted.. 

[BeatingtheSystem]

this erased C/O account for tmobile for me...definitely want to VALIDATE, not VERIFY.  And like you said, ask for validation in writing...well, i guess i should say always ask for everything in writing lol

**bleep** good post...thank you so much

[BeatingtheSystem]

this erased C/O account for tmobile for me...definitely want to VALIDATE, not VERIFY.  And like you said, ask for validation in writing...well, i guess i should say always ask for everything in writing lol

DARN good post lol...thank you so much

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@Anonymous wrote:
Here's the key. When asking for verified or validate. You or they need to Validate that this is your item. People can so call verify anything without proof. But unless they can validate it. It can be disputed and removed. Also ask for written information. So just in case they suddenly want to become hard to deal with.

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