The reason you done tell them if you're military or a first responder..is because you want the out the door price first. Then you tell them after you worked all that out. Then you'll save additional. If you believe that this is not how it works. I don't know what to tell you.
@Scupra wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:During Covid, the wife and called Nissan, we still had 14 payments remaining on our lease and they said they would wipe those clean and get us into something else and we won't have payments for 3 months on the new vehicle. The reason Nissan didn't care about the remaining payments is because their used car inventory is low(I don't imagine why, because who likes CVTs? Lol). We were going to wait for the 21 Rogue but Nissan threw us in a Murano Platinum for $95 less a month than they were paying for the rogue. They didn't even bother to do a credit check. So we are all good.
And No! They didn't roll the remaining payments into the new lease. I first worked out the out the door price. Didn't mention if I wanted to lease or finance. Didn't answer any of the dealers usual incentive questions as well. Don't answer them if they ask about Millitary or a first Responder bla bla bla. Just work on the out the door price.
With some dealerships you can even say"Nissan, VW or whoever your lease is through, keeps calling me for early pull ahead". The dealership will just take your word for it. Trust me.Lastly when I leased my Dodge Challenger SP WB from Chrysler capital..I actually had money down and didn't mention it. I barely fought with the sales/finance manager. I was thinking $500 a month or so. Nope $350 a month for a 36/10 lease. Didn't put a penny down and MyFico Auto Scores are only 632, TU, 635 EQ, and 657 EX.
Both Chrysler and Nissan are bottom feeding right now am I'm sure it will implode at some point. But oh well.
Absolutely the worst advice in this thread.. Military and First Responder can OFTEN qualify you for dealer incentives, not answering is just you leaving money on the table. If lease pull ahead isn't available, it isn't available.. Just because you lie to the dealer doesn't mean they are going to just wipe your payments away because "they take your word".
Anyone looking for a lease needs to go to edmunds and gather buyrate MF, residual and ALL incentives and/or dealer cash available. After you have all of the inoformation, google a lease calulator and plug your numbers in.. You should know the deal you want before ever contacting a dealership in the first place. GL!
@Anonymous wrote:The reason you done tell them if you're military or a first responder..is because you want the out the door price first. Then you tell them after you worked all that out. Then you'll save additional. If you believe that this is not how it works. I don't know what to tell you.
@Scupra wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:During Covid, the wife and called Nissan, we still had 14 payments remaining on our lease and they said they would wipe those clean and get us into something else and we won't have payments for 3 months on the new vehicle. The reason Nissan didn't care about the remaining payments is because their used car inventory is low(I don't imagine why, because who likes CVTs? Lol). We were going to wait for the 21 Rogue but Nissan threw us in a Murano Platinum for $95 less a month than they were paying for the rogue. They didn't even bother to do a credit check. So we are all good.
And No! They didn't roll the remaining payments into the new lease. I first worked out the out the door price. Didn't mention if I wanted to lease or finance. Didn't answer any of the dealers usual incentive questions as well. Don't answer them if they ask about Millitary or a first Responder bla bla bla. Just work on the out the door price.
With some dealerships you can even say"Nissan, VW or whoever your lease is through, keeps calling me for early pull ahead". The dealership will just take your word for it. Trust me.Lastly when I leased my Dodge Challenger SP WB from Chrysler capital..I actually had money down and didn't mention it. I barely fought with the sales/finance manager. I was thinking $500 a month or so. Nope $350 a month for a 36/10 lease. Didn't put a penny down and MyFico Auto Scores are only 632, TU, 635 EQ, and 657 EX.
Both Chrysler and Nissan are bottom feeding right now am I'm sure it will implode at some point. But oh well.
Absolutely the worst advice in this thread.. Military and First Responder can OFTEN qualify you for dealer incentives, not answering is just you leaving money on the table. If lease pull ahead isn't available, it isn't available.. Just because you lie to the dealer doesn't mean they are going to just wipe your payments away because "they take your word".
Anyone looking for a lease needs to go to edmunds and gather buyrate MF, residual and ALL incentives and/or dealer cash available. After you have all of the inoformation, google a lease calulator and plug your numbers in.. You should know the deal you want before ever contacting a dealership in the first place. GL!
A great out the door price means absolutely nothing if they are using dealer cash to afford the "discount". Above and beyond that major point, OTD pirce means even less if they are increasing the MF to make up for the discount up front. Your pushing the right idea but not gathering all of the details. I worked as a new car sales manager and desked thousands of deals, I don't need to beleive what you are saying is "the way". I just want others browing the forums to have the best info available 
edit: It is very easy to show you a great OTD cost and hide the $2k (dealer cash on my last lease) as well as conquest or any other incentives that are NOT publicised. The MF could also be inflated by 2-3% to make up the loss on the front end in back end profit. Negotiating out the door is half the battle sir.
@Scupra wrote:
Negotiating out the door is half the battle sir.
That's because leases have a lot of ways to hide things out of normal consumer eye. It's also one of the times when buying a car where focusing on monthly payment actually is more the right way to go. I don't care what the OTD price is, if I know I'm comfortable paying $350 a month for a new car forever then that's all I'm looking at.
as of 1/1/23
