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@Anonymous wrote:You got approved for a Chase Sapphire Reserve with a starting limit of less than $10,000? Also, what would be the basis for the disputes of inquiries from auto dealer(s)?
Congrats, I suppose.
I was thinking the same thing
@Anonymous wrote:You got approved for a Chase Sapphire Reserve with a starting limit of less than $10,000? Also, what would be the basis for the disputes of inquiries from auto dealer(s)?
Congrats, I suppose.
basic typo CSP, well they never told me I kept getting approved or had counter offers. I only found out when I started receiving all the letters in the mail about, sorry you didnt accept our offer etc. Which really ticks me off because I just wanted to buy it pay a month or 2 of whatver and have it financed with my local credit union. As I was in another state and had been looking for the particular vehicle for 6 months.
@Meanmchine wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:You got approved for a Chase Sapphire Reserve with a starting limit of less than $10,000? Also, what would be the basis for the disputes of inquiries from auto dealer(s)?
Congrats, I suppose.
I was thinking the same thing
typo
But none of that is a basis for disputes although you can certainly try. Whenever you go to a car dealership it must be understood that they are likely to shotgun your application out to several lenders in order to get the best rate (typically that means the one that gives the largest kickback to the F & I manager). Its likely that you signed off agreeing for them to shop around for approvals. It is always best to obtain your financing from a reliable third-party lender like a credit union before going to any dealer to avoid situations like this one.
@Anonymous wrote:But none of that is a basis for disputes although you can certainly try. Whenever you go to a car dealership it must be understood that they are likely to shotgun your application out to several lenders in order to get the best rate (typically that means the one that gives the largest kickback to the F & I manager). Its likely that you signed off agreeing for them to shop around for approvals. It is always best to obtain your financing from a reliable third-party lender like a credit union before going to any dealer to avoid situations like this one.
I mean that would be the case if i didnt explicity say do not shop around for my loan and let me know what the first offer is. And right that down and sign it in the I approve you to get this amount paper. Especially since they unknowingly asked one of my banks and they happened to tell me. And why I just said I didnt care about the financing term I am going to my credit union Im out of state and this was a pleasant surprise.
Sorry to say disputing inquiries of auto dealers will be fruitless will come back factual and they will not be removed unless the dealers themselves or lenders they shot gunned your apps out to agree to recode them as SP's which is slim at most. You signed something saying they had permission and I pretty much can gurantee the dealer has the copy of that. As @Anonymous stated they were shopping around for best rate of you and also where they could get a few points of interest kick back as well for F&I... Never do dealer financing unless captive and you know it will be a single pull and feel your credit is strong enough to merit it otherwise use a CU or whatever that way you control the process.
Grats on your other approvals though, but majority if not all those inquiries will remain...With that said they only impact your score for 1 year and remain approx 2 years on report...
@CreditCuriosity wrote:Sorry to say disputing inquiries of auto dealers will be fruitless will come back factual and they will not be removed unless the dealers themselves or lenders they shot gunned your apps out to agree to recode them as SP's which is slim at most. You signed something saying they had permission and I pretty much can gurantee the dealer has the copy of that. As @Anonymous stated they were shopping around for best rate of you and also where they could get a few points of interest kick back as well for F&I... Never do dealer financing unless captive and you know it will be a single pull and feel your credit is strong enough to merit it otherwise use a CU or whatever that way you control the process.
Grats on your other approvals though, but majority if not all those inquiries will remain...With that said they only impact your score for 1 year and remain approx 2 years on report...
If I authorize something with another party and it is agreed upon by both parties it is then a legally binding contract, and I will not accept an old addnedum of well its a dealership they shotgun. Its called protect yourself which I did when they will have to furnish my signature of come to me immediately after a approval to discuss. So yes I have plenty of reason but ok thanks.