Need new strategy to trigger auto CLI with Chase

[digitek]

I guess this is a credit card forum so we promote lots of credit cards, but come on...

You have combined household income north of 100k, over 200k of credit available to you and Chase gave you a $500 limit on recon...

You might want to take a long look at your actual credit profile.  Chase gave you that toy stuff for a reason...

[imaximous]

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wrote:

This is probably obvious but if you're looking to buy a big ticket item on Amazon, just keep buying $500 Amazon GCs with your Amazon Visa and pay it off mid-cycle. Repeat a few times until you hit the desired amount you want.

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I thought about it, but some of the things I buy - particularly electronics, I prefer to charge on a credit card with some type of protection in case something goes wrong. But it's not a bad idea for other things. 

[imaximous]

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wrote:

I guess this is a credit card forum so we promote lots of credit cards, but come on...

You have combined household income north of 100k, over 200k of credit available to you and Chase gave you a $500 limit on recon...

You might want to take a long look at your actual credit profile.  Chase gave you that toy stuff for a reason...

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I think it's been established that my BK7 where I burned Chase 7 years ago is what's most likely holding me back. The only card where I have a revolving balance is a $10k Lowe's card with $2k left to pay. I won't pay it off because it's 24 months of no interest. Aside from that, utilization is at maybe 3% because I let balances report, then PIF. I haven't had a single late since I filed BK. I'm not trying to get more credit, but fix my individual relationship with Chase. They know I have like $72k of credit available on my wife's Chase cards. They've brought that up over recon. So now I just gotta fix my own screwups. 

[Anonymous]

@digitek I don’t want to assume the intent of your post, but it did seem to be a bit insulting to the OP. Just to point out,
1) OP didn’t clarify if “income north of 100k” was individual or household.
2) it is not uncommon for an individual to have a total available credit of 2x-3x there verifiable income. There are multiple members who have incomes in the 100k range and total credit lines of $500k+

To say his profile is “whack as f****” would suggest you don’t quite understand consumer lending, underwriting or DTI calculations.

The OP’s profile from a consumer lending perspective is strong. Low total debt, Low utilization, and making an educated guest pretty low DTI with a &100k income. Weak points are the multiple new accounts and inquiries, but this is pretty typical of someone about half way through a post BK rebuild.

[imaximous]

I didn't see "whack as f***" in the comment, so I guess the post was edited. It doesn't matter.

I clearly said in my original post that I personally have over 100k in individual credit available. Over 200k if we take into account the TLs where I'm an AU, which do show on my reports and the bureaus take into account for utilization purposes. That's not bragging but data points. I don't even think it's impressive to have $250k in available credit when I've seen members with 1mil plus. And more than half isn't even mine.

In retrospect, one of the mistakes I made after filing BK was to rely too much on my wife's great credit for years. Since I was being constantly declined, she basically applied for all the cards I wanted to get and couldn't, and I was always the AU, so I never saw the need to apply for my own cards anymore. My only cards were Capital One, BofA and Barclays with a combined limit under $9k. That's the reason the majority of my individual TLs after BK are so young. I only started applying for cards again early last year. My first app was Cap One Venture and I was in total shock when they gave me a $30k SL. My very next app was Chase Amazon for $500 on recon, and I was just as happy. Now I'm getting approved for cards starting at $10K except for Chase or AMEX where I'm 100% blacklisted.
My DTI and personal income are just fine. I couldn't say the same when I was drowning in debt after the banking collapse and unemployment that led me to BK. I was doing well before the financial crisis, and then it was all gone.

Anyway, I don't know why I need to explain, so I'll leave it at that.

[arkane]

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wrote:

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wrote:

This is probably obvious but if you're looking to buy a big ticket item on Amazon, just keep buying $500 Amazon GCs with your Amazon Visa and pay it off mid-cycle. Repeat a few times until you hit the desired amount you want.

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I thought about it, but some of the things I buy - particularly electronics, I prefer to charge on a credit card with some type of protection in case something goes wrong. But it's not a bad idea for other things. 

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Fair enough. But honestly Amazon's return policy is so good, every single time I've had an issue with an expensive electronics, a quick email or call to CS was all that was needed to resolve it to my satisfaction. But if you're talking about the long term and extended warranties then I completely understand.

[imaximous]

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wrote:

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wrote:

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wrote:

This is probably obvious but if you're looking to buy a big ticket item on Amazon, just keep buying $500 Amazon GCs with your Amazon Visa and pay it off mid-cycle. Repeat a few times until you hit the desired amount you want.

---

I thought about it, but some of the things I buy - particularly electronics, I prefer to charge on a credit card with some type of protection in case something goes wrong. But it's not a bad idea for other things. 

---

Fair enough. But honestly Amazon's return policy is so good, every single time I've had an issue with an expensive electronics, a quick email or call to CS was all that was needed to resolve it to my satisfaction. But if you're talking about the long term and extended warranties then I completely understand.

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Yes, that's what I meant. Amazon is great during the return policy period. But I was referring to Price Protection so I can buy when I need something, and then shop around later for a better price and match it. Last week, a claim was approved for about $140 price difference after I bought something at a small business to support a local guy, and then I submitted a quote from an online retailer for price match. 

Purchase protection in the first 90-120 days depending on the card. A couple of years ago, my wife dropped her iPad on the floor the week after I got it for Christmas. I filed a claim and it was fully replaced under that plan. 

Then there's the extended warranties, etc. 

[Benzman]

Long story short.

Applied for 4 chase cards over a 4 year period. First 3 times was given a $500 limit, until my 4th card which was $2K. Never got CLIs on any. Went for AARP last year and was told would be approved if I closed the other cards and rolled limits, so closed the cards and rolled all limits to AARP. Still at the same limit $3.5K, so I got my $150 bonus spend and sock drawered since. Never any bads/lates. We just aren't good friends, lol.

[UncleB]

Just a quick reminder that we have a Friendly, Supportive, and Respectful policy here, and that it's not optional.

--UB

[Anonymous]

@imaximous, I saw this post, read through and wanted to follow up to see if you've had any success? If so, could you share?

I'm in a semi similar bucket:

• Opened a Chase Slate 1yr ago with a $500 SL, my scores weren't great since I was building but it got my in the door
  • Charged no more than $200-300 and PIF as soon as things posted or on the due date - just to show that I could use more if it was there. I took a small hit (3-4 pts) but nothing major.
  • After a year I figured, "What gives? I can't do anything with $500 and never received an auto CLI". Took the hardpull and got $5K instantly and converted it to a Freedom Unlimited. The only bummer is that the rep asked  me how much I wanted and I was conservative and said $5 and got it no questions asked - I feel like I left money on the table, ugh

From what I've read on here Chase is super stingy with auto-CLI's. I wonder if a co-branded card could have a different auto CLI policy? My Slate was a builder card so I think that may have received similar auto treatment. I applied for a CSR since I'm an AU on an account and was denied for some bogus reasons Chase's 2/30 rule (even though 1 of those 2 were on an existing product in good standing) and the fact that my college checking account flipped to a normal account type and I spaced the $12 fee a few times.