@Anonymous wrote:→Authorized User
-GF's Discovery history is 13 years old account. Its also at 45% utilization (we bought a washer and dryer and some other needs in Sept for her new house and are paying it down). Its an $8k dollar limit and the only AU account I want to attach myself to. We need to paydown $2600 to get her account into AU territory. It sounds like a lot but its probably doable in 4-8 weeks.
→FAKO? FICO?
-I finally got onto Experian, paid my $1, and got my scores.-Experian: 535
-Equifax: 553-TransUnion: 547
Now that everything is more clear, it seems like I should get the CA's off my back...then wait to get an AU and then 1-2 credit cards? Or get the graduating cards and get on an AU when possible??
Now that you've provided us more information to work with it'll be easier for members to provide feedback.
As mentioned up thread, those are workable numbers and you'll need your own revolving credit cards in addition to the Discover AU. At 45% utilization, while not perfect, it'll be okay in the short term. You'll benefit from the credit account age but be penalized points for the utilization.
You can move onto the credit build portion:
OpenSky secured credit card as recommended by @
The purpose of me recommending you join Navy Federal is because they offer this secured credit card. Data points show members have been approved with high 400 to mid 500 TU FICO scores. It'll be a hard pull Transunion inquiry. This card also does graduate to unsecured. If you are approved for the card, it can take up to 60 days for them to report to the 3 bureaus.
Once your revolving credit cards shows up on your credit report, you should see some point gains.
@Anonymous wrote:Is there any value in trying the Experian boost? I've done pretty well with paying my auto insurance, electric, gas, etc. They haven't gone deliquent I don't think. Not in awhile anyways.
I didn't know I could go back the Doctor's office and beg to pay back them directly?? Is that advisable? I really have no moral qualms about paying them. They rendered a service, I didn't pay. I'd be pissed if it was the reverse situation. At the same time, I'm not going to take a penalty if I can avoid it. I'd rather just part ways amicably if I can.
I don't have any personal experience with Experian Boost. I see mixed reviews. Since you have no revolving credit cards at this time, perhaps it could help you score wise on Experian? You'll have to weigh the benefits versus the invasiveness of it. Personally, I'd wait and see how your scores rise based on your secured cards. If you need more points, then look into the Experian Boost.
You can give it a shot and call the Original Creditor / doctor's office. See if they can recall the collection. Again, Pay For Delete is the goal but paid is better than unpaid.
Circling back to your other goal, 4x4 vehicle:
You'll have to see how your scores react with the credit cards and paid collection/PFD. It might take 2 months for credit report update. Also, you should see additional score boost at the 3 and 6 month interval from original card open date.
You might miss your goal date of November/Thanksgiving if you were thinking about financing a vehicle on your own; unless it was with high interest rate if you were approved, eg. "buy here pay here dealerships".
Do you have year of vehicle in mind?
You'll have to see how your scores react with the credit cards and paid collection/PFD. It might take 2 months for credit report update. Also, you should see additional score boost at the 3 and 6 month interval from original card open date.
You might miss your goal date of November/Thanksgiving if you were thinking about financing a vehicle on your own; unless it was with high interest rate if you were approved, eg. "buy here pay here dealerships".
Do you have year of vehicle in mind?
540 -> 780, right here 
Which is to say, I've done it, but my profile is different than yours (similar in some ways, though), so take what I offer with whatever grains that you'd like.
It sounds like you're doing pretty good on the student loans. If there is any derogatory information, I would work on getting them removed using the goodwill saturation technique (which can be found here in the forum).
I didn't know I could go back the Doctor's office and beg to pay back them directly?? Is that advisable? I really have no moral qualms about paying them. They rendered a service, I didn't pay. I'd be pissed if it was the reverse situation. At the same time, I'm not going to take a penalty if I can avoid it. I'd rather just part ways amicably if I can.
Yes, you can do this if they still own the debt. Call the doctors office, ask them if they can recall the debt. If they can, pay them. The collection should then be removed from your report (as they no longer have collection authority), although it is up to the original creditor as to whether they will delete it for you. If they will not pay-for-delete, I would go ahead and pay it so it stops hurting your credit report with updates. Then engage in the goodwill campaign. I know you will get different kinds of advice - I'm not here to judge, so if you don't want to pay, you can try the HIPAA method mentioned previously. I applaud you for wanting to pay your legitimate bills.
Here's my advice re: AU: get on that card as an AU (as long as it's not an AMEX card) asap, even though the utilization is high. You have very little credit history with no revolvers, and even if the utilization isn't perfect, it will probably still benefit you. I had no revolving history and I had my partner add me to his card; even though his utilization sometimes goes really high (because I'm grateful he made me an AU, I don't say a peep about his use), my scores were still significantly higher than before I got on his cards.
With your scores in the 500s, I think you have a decent chance at getting on with a larger bank's secured cards. You might want to wait until you pay off (or delete or whatever) your medical debt first - that will help your FICOs. I second the Navy Feds secured (if you can), Discover, Citi, or a local CU if you have a good one near you. While rebuilder cards (credit one and the like) have their place, I am always a fan of getting something you can keep for as long as possible.
As for your 4x4/vehicle: I would recommend you get in with a CU as soon as possible (if you're not in with NFCU yet, get in there, get in with more than one if you can!). When you are ready to get your vehicle, look up different rates at different banks. My local CU (which I'd been a member of for a year) had lower rates than NFCU at the time, so I prequaled for a loan with them. CU's tend to be more lenient than big banks - I was able to explain the two things lowering my scores and how I'd paid everything off, and they gave me a loan at their promo rate for a new vehicle. It made the whole process a LOT smoother. Every bank has their rates listed right on their website, usually broken into used/new and lengths of loan. That should help you determine who will be the best for you. My CUs also tell you how much they'll loan (100% value NADA + 15% or something like that).
I've been there - very close to you - no revolving history, delinquent student loans, and a car that was probably going to die soon (it died a year earlier than I was hoping). I was there JUST a year ago. You can do this. There is a lot of good advice on this board, even if it differs (we all have different profiles and different things that helped us).
@calyx wrote:540 -> 780, right here
It sounds like you're doing pretty good on the student loans. If there is any derogatory information, I would work on getting them removed using the goodwill saturation technique (which can be found here in the forum).
I didn't know I could go back the Doctor's office and beg to pay back them directly?? Is that advisable? I really have no moral qualms about paying them. They rendered a service, I didn't pay. I'd be pissed if it was the reverse situation. At the same time, I'm not going to take a penalty if I can avoid it. I'd rather just part ways amicably if I can.
Yes, you can do this if they still own the debt. Call the doctors office, ask them if they can recall the debt. If they can, pay them. The collection should then be removed from your report (as they no longer have collection authority), although it is up to the original creditor as to whether they will delete it for you. If they will not pay-for-delete, I would go ahead and pay it so it stops hurting your credit report with updates. Then engage in the goodwill campaign. I know you will get different kinds of advice - I'm not here to judge, so if you don't want to pay, you can try the HIPAA method mentioned previously. I applaud you for wanting to pay your legitimate bills.
I was finally able to call both offices today. Work has been H E C T I C the last two days.
$256 dollar collection was PAID!!
The other doctor/5 year old debt, was not able to be recalled sadly and they will not pay-for-delete. So here come the letters. Its just silly. A predatory collection agency taking a stance on morality??Here's my advice re: AU: get on that card as an AU (as long as it's not an AMEX card) asap, even though the utilization is high. You have very little credit history with no revolvers, and even if the utilization isn't perfect, it will probably still benefit you. I had no revolving history and I had my partner add me to his card; even though his utilization sometimes goes really high (because I'm grateful he made me an AU, I don't say a peep about his use), my scores were still significantly higher than before I got on his cards.
Will do! We're both off early tonight, medical industry is BUSY. We're going to setup AU tonight as we have time.
With your scores in the 500s, I think you have a decent chance at getting on with a larger bank's secured cards. You might want to wait until you pay off (or delete or whatever) your medical debt first - that will help your FICOs. I second the Navy Feds secured (if you can), Discover, Citi, or a local CU if you have a good one near you. While rebuilder cards (credit one and the like) have their place, I am always a fan of getting something you can keep for as long as possible.
As for your 4x4/vehicle: I would recommend you get in with a CU as soon as possible (if you're not in with NFCU yet, get in there, get in with more than one if you can!). When you are ready to get your vehicle, look up different rates at different banks. My local CU (which I'd been a member of for a year) had lower rates than NFCU at the time, so I prequaled for a loan with them. CU's tend to be more lenient than big banks - I was able to explain the two things lowering my scores and how I'd paid everything off, and they gave me a loan at their promo rate for a new vehicle. It made the whole process a LOT smoother. Every bank has their rates listed right on their website, usually broken into used/new and lengths of loan. That should help you determine who will be the best for you. My CUs also tell you how much they'll loan (100% value NADA + 15% or something like that).
I'm going to start looking into it in more depth as I'm finally making some moves on everything. What's a good interest rate to expect? or hope for?
I've been there - very close to you - no revolving history, delinquent student loans, and a car that was probably going to die soon (it died a year earlier than I was hoping). I was there JUST a year ago. You can do this. There is a lot of good advice on this board, even if it differs (we all have different profiles and different things that helped us).
That is awesome! I'm in a bit of a better spot as my car is very happy at the moment. Its more of a safety/I don't want to expose it so salt and slush - yuck. I still cannot believe you were able to jump so high, so fast!