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Do I qualify?

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Anonymous
Not applicable

Do I qualify?

Credit Score: 638

AAoA: 8 months

# of positive trade lines: 

# of negative trade lines:

Income: 35000

Lenght of Employment: 2 months

Previous Loan Experience: none

Debt-to-Income (DTI): 20%

Year of Car: 2012

Miles: 40000

Purchase/Refinance: Purchase

Requested loan term (XX Months): 60 or 72

Down payment amount: I'm thinking about 4000~5000, 10% of the car.

Co-borrower/Co-Signer: none

Other: I currently don't have any proof of income. I just started my new job and they pay cash only. I currently have a total credit limit of 11000 (with a 6000 balance, should I bring the balance down first?) and a 2400 finance of my laser treatment. I currently have no bill that I have to worry about. Do you think I can get a loan for the car I want? If not, what should I change to improve my chance?

 

Message 1 of 7
6 REPLIES 6
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Do I qualify?

I just went through the car approval roller coaster yesterday, so here are my thoughts.

 

It's harder to get good rates with no loan history. This was my first auto loan ever, and I'm almost 40.  My income is 4x the price of the vehicle, I've been at my job for over 8 years, with scores in the mid 600's on average and was still shocked to get 3.35% (Mom was a CPA, and one of her big clients was a regional auto wholesale/auction place, so for most of my life all of our cars and even friends cars came through him. Mom was known for being able to buy a nice car on her Discover card......so her getting outside financing at rates of 1% or better was a no-brainer. Me....the guy did "private" financing since I was her son. "Pay me monthly until it's done, then the title will transfer. If you are 30 days late, I just send my truck to get the car, we don't have to do all that paperwork and stuff." I could also say "Hey, I really want X model vehicle in X color and X options." And he'd go searching, report back in a few weeks with the news that one is on it's way and will arrive on whatever day. )

 

The DTI may hurt you. I don't think so much becuase of the actual numbers, but more like "We can't verify anything about the finances with a cash only job." The $6000 balance you mention is over 50% of your available credit at this time, plus another $2400. I would suggest paying that down, but I'm not sure which would be more benifecial. I'm sure someone here can advise you better on that than I can.

 

I also don't know what state you are in, but here (Louisiana) a cash only job will likely be a big red flag because TAXES. Are they being taken out? Do you pay them on your own like a contract position? 

 

Do you have a bank account? How long have you been with that bank?

 

You mention that your proposed down payment of $4000-$5000 is 10% of the car. So that would mean it's a $40,000 car or more?

 

So I ran this through the Edmunds auto payment calculator. A $40,000 car...with a $5000 down payment...IF you got a straight 3% interest...for 60 months.....is a payment of $700 dollars. If it's 72 months, then it's about $600 dollars.

 

However....with no loan history, over 50% UTI on your credit limit, a cash only job you just started, 8 month AAoA, estimated (my mental math) payments on that $6000 balance at about $200/m to be getting anywhere on it, and another $2400 balance....I don't think you'll be getting great rates IF you get approved.

 

From my experiences over the last few days, this looks like a "sub prime" situation, which may mean IF you get approval, it will be interest rates in the 20% and up category. That means your monthly payment IF you got approved, and IF it went for the 60 months you want would be an easy $1000. 

 

So the math from another angle. $35,000 a year.....you don't say if that is before or after taxes, so I'm going to assume it's before. At a conservative rate of a total of 20% of your income going to taxes (state, federal, etc) without insurance coming out of it....leaves $28,000. With the Affordable Care Act in place, you with either have to have insurance or pay a fine. Perhaps you do have insurance through someone else's policy etc. But you will need car insurance. And with a loan, that will include collision/comp. At which point you are looking at a good $150-$300/month depending on your age, driving history, length of time with the company etc. So let's try $225/month (your lender may require certain levels of coverage which will also have an impact.)

 

$28,000 divided by 12 months gives you $2333. Estimate $1000 minimum on the car loan with the info you gave, so that's now $1000 ( a safe number because I ran the note at 20% instead of a possible 23-275). Take out the car insurance and it's $775. Other payments and you are now below $500 for the month for gas and whatever else.

 

Unless I misunderstood something in the information you provided, I'd have to advise to look for a much cheaper vehicle. Also, pay down the amounts you own on other things, and perhaps find a way to get proof of income. 

 

 

Message 2 of 7
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Do I qualify?

Thank you very much for this detail answer. I would like to answer a few question that you have for me, and hopefully you can help me further. 

 

My monthly income after tax is around 2500, and my boyfriend gives me about 1000 every month, but we both don't want to put him as a co-sign for personal reason. That's 3500, my expense is around 1000 every month (included car insurance and gas money....etc)

 

I have been with my bank for about 3 years now, but I don't deposit money into that account that often, I prefer to keep my leftover money in a safe in my house. But I can start now, how many months do I have to keep deposit money in to consider a good enough proof of income?

 

Not gonna lie, I'm a pretty vain person, so I would like to have better stuff than the other people I know. I'm thinking about Jaguar, preferably XJ (around 40000) but can settle for XF (around 30000). And you were very right, my insurance gonna jump to the exact amount you said. I willing to put some more money in the down payment if that can make the situation better. 

 

So before I have to turn to the other option which is geeting a cheaper car. Is there anything I can do to be able to get the car I want?

 

Once again, thank you for your reply, and I hope to hear from you soon.

 

Cire

Message 3 of 7
ds3
Regular Contributor

Re: Do I qualify?

That's too large a loan for a first time buyer with your income. Sorry, but that's the truth. You would probably need a cosigner for half that amount.

Message 4 of 7
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Do I qualify?

The length of employment, income and veif income and the amount you are trying to finance I dont think it will happen.

Maybe start off with something cheaper to prove to the banks you can handle the loan.

I just cant imagine this deal happening. Best of luck.

Message 5 of 7
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Do I qualify?

Cire,

 

Ready for the straight talk?

 

Thank you very much for this detail answer. I would like to answer a few question that you have for me, and hopefully you can help me further. 

 

My monthly income after tax is around 2500, and my boyfriend gives me about 1000 every month, but we both don't want to put him as a co-sign for personal reason. That's 3500, my expense is around 1000 every month (included car insurance and gas money....etc)

 

I have been with my bank for about 3 years now, but I don't deposit money into that account that often, I prefer to keep my leftover money in a safe in my house. But I can start now, how many months do I have to keep deposit money in to consider a good enough proof of income?

 

"Proof of income" isn't just what is being deposited in your bank account. Part of the "proof" is the HOW. Employers that use direct deposit for example, that direct deposit shows up in the statements in a certain way making it clear that it is legally earned income. Cash deposits show thatt yes, money is going IN....but from where? How? To a lender, this could just as easily be money you earned from an illegal source. 

 

Even if an employer does not use direct deposit, there is still a trail of checks, and when a check is deposited there are digital images of that check somewhere. The source can be verified, and the employee would also have paystubs of some sort. 

 

It is VERY HARD to have valid "proof" of income, of LEGAL income, when you are being paid in cash. There is a very good chance that this will not fly for a loan, which would leave you with saving up that cash and buying a used car (or new if you can save that much.....but likely NOT the new car or used car you are referring to) with a chashier's check. Or personal check in some cases. 

 

Not gonna lie, I'm a pretty vain person, so I would like to have better stuff than the other people I know. I'm thinking about Jaguar, preferably XJ (around 40000) but can settle for XF (around 30000). And you were very right, my insurance gonna jump to the exact amount you said. I willing to put some more money in the down payment if that can make the situation better. 

 

A downpayment discussion is a bit moot without some proof of legal income for a lender. And attempting to get an auto loan for a car in that range with a cash only income.....I really really don't think that is going to happen. 

 

So before I have to turn to the other option which is geeting a cheaper car. Is there anything I can do to be able to get the car I want?

 

I doubt it seriously.

 

I grew up in a life where luxury cars were the norm, your income, even with the money from the boyfriend, isn't going to support the purchase. Sure, perhaps crunching the numbers wise you could actually make the payments. But getting the auto loan? That's the kicker. I don't see it happening at this point. 

 

Once again, thank you for your reply, and I hope to hear from you soon.

 

Cire

Message 6 of 7
trant3
Established Contributor

Re: Do I qualify?

Not going to happen, the first thing the lender will ask for is proof of income, especially with no prior auto loans and short credit history. Also, I'm not sure how you can be paid cash only with taxes being deducted.

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