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I did a prequalify through Cap One Auto Finance and it is a really awesome rate of 2.9 percent. So I went to there website to look for cars in my local area and I see this message pop up right away.
Final terms of sale are subject to negotiation with dealer. Capital One is not a party to your purchase and will not share this info with the dealer.
From the way that is worded "Capital One is not a party to your purchase" does that mean the loan is funded through a bank with the dealer and the Cap One has nothing at all to do with the loan ??
It is kinda confusing because I thought the loan would be through Capital One.
@Anonymous wrote:I did a prequalify through Cap One Auto Finance and it is a really awesome rate of 2.9 percent. So I went to there website to look for cars in my local area and I see this message pop up right away.
Final terms of sale are subject to negotiation with dealer. Capital One is not a party to your purchase and will not share this info with the dealer.
From the way that is worded "Capital One is not a party to your purchase" does that mean the loan is funded through a bank with the dealer and the Cap One has nothing at all to do with the loan ??
It is kinda confusing because I thought the loan would be through Capital One.
All that basically means is Cap-1 is providing the loan and THAT is between you and Cap-1, but not the vehicle, warranty, terms, etc. With that in mind, Cap-1 like most lemders will probably bundle your loan with others and sell it on the bond market (Securitize) but you'll never know as Cap-1 should still service your loan.
Yep.
Capital One is signing on to handle the funding of your purchase, but they are telling you that they aren't going to talk to your dealer about the vehicle, pricing, warranty, options, GAP, etc, etc - all of that is on you to negotiate. This covers Capital One in case someone got on the Auto Navigator and put in a $15,000 purchase price, nothing down, got a payment quote of say $250 - but then the contract presented to them at the dealership had a payment amount of $325 because the dealer tacked on GAP, extended warranty, service packages, etc. or because the person himself did not know he was underwater on his trade, or whatever. It is between the buyer and the dealer to resolve the discrepancy, not Capital One. That's all.
The dealer will ultimately get his money from Capital One, and you will make your payments to Capital One. And as long as your TOTAL purchase price (including tax, title, license, options, warranty, etc) equals the amount you entered in the Capital One site, you'll get the rate and payment amount that shows up there for that vehicle.
| Total CL: $321.7k | UTL: 2% | AAoA: 7.0yrs | Baddies: 0 | Other: Lease, Loan, *No Mortgage, All Inq's from Jun '20 Car Shopping |










That makes sense guys! Sorry for the long delay. This is why I love this forum because you guys are awesome when it comes to anything credit related. Thanks again for the answers everyone.
One final question. Can the dealer try to pull anything on me like not trying to honor the % rate or something like that?
@Anonymous wrote:That makes sense guys! Sorry for the long delay. This is why I love this forum because you guys are awesome when it comes to anything credit related. Thanks again for the answers everyone.
One final question. Can the dealer try to pull anything on me like not trying to honor the % rate or something like that?
They can try but frankly the dealer has nothing to do with it. You are in fact bringing your own "check" end of story. Not any different than if you brought cash, the financing is done.
So as long as I take that "Prequalified Certificate" to the dealer they will then do the hard pull and see the cap one approval or loan?
Yes.
They will initiate a credit pull on you, and accept the Capital One offer.
They may also try to counteroffer if they can find another lender who can beat it or who offers them a better initiation payout (more or less their commission on intiating the loan). Your credit report will likely show half a dozen or more inquiries, all of them coded for "auto lending" so really not going to impact your scores.
Your prequal certificate terms will match the Capital One offer they get back, assuming nothing has changed in the price, down payment, term, or in your credit since you got the prequal offer.
Boyfriend did it through Cap1 at an Autonation Ford dealership. Of course he knew the interest rate before we went which was 3.6%, but the manager came out and told him it was actually much higher, I belive he said around a 7%. So after we kept reiterating that we wanted the contract dry, we went to go in to sign the papers. Well low and behold we knew why it was so high. They had added all kinds of crap to the paperwork, like Gap, insurance and all kinds of stuff. They even tried to justify it by changing the contract from a 60 months to 72 months. Which he did not want. They really wanted him to use that entire $40,000.
Thank goodness I jumped in and read it all. Made them take ALL that stuff off, and the finance guy said, "Oh your in luck, I was able to get you a better interest rate." Really, no it is because you took all that stuff off. Don't forget that when they add items to the original deal you agreed on, the interest rate goes up. You don't NEED to use the entire amount Cap1 finances you.
He even put $8,000 down on a 2016 Frod Fusion Titanium for only $28,000, so out the door the financing covered the rest. Always put money down. It will help you not be so upside down in the car loan. Read your contract with Cap1 also about making extra payments too. He has been paying way over the amount he need to each month, and they kept rolling it over to the next months payment instead of it going to the principle payment amount. Lots of phone calls there.
Just be careful when you go, it's better to negotate over the phone, and READ everything. The dealer is still trying to make a profit, and negotiate first, and do not tell them that you are pre-approved for anything until you get the price right on any car you want. Let them negotiate for a better rate through their financing after you lock down the price on the car. Out the door price by the way including all the fees and stuff.
@Anonymous wrote:Boyfriend did it through Cap1 at an Autonation Ford dealership. Of course he knew the interest rate before we went which was 3.6%, but the manager came out and told him it was actually much higher, I belive he said around a 7%. So after we kept reiterating that we wanted the contract dry, we went to go in to sign the papers. Well low and behold we knew why it was so high. They had added all kinds of crap to the paperwork, like Gap, insurance and all kinds of stuff. They even tried to justify it by changing the contract from a 60 months to 72 months. Which he did not want. They really wanted him to use that entire $40,000.
Thank goodness I jumped in and read it all. Made them take ALL that stuff off, and the finance guy said, "Oh your in luck, I was able to get you a better interest rate." Really, no it is because you took all that stuff off. Don't forget that when they add items to the original deal you agreed on, the interest rate goes up. You don't NEED to use the entire amount Cap1 finances you.
He even put $8,000 down on a 2016 Frod Fusion Titanium for only $28,000, so out the door the financing covered the rest. Always put money down. It will help you not be so upside down in the car loan. Read your contract with Cap1 also about making extra payments too. He has been paying way over the amount he need to each month, and they kept rolling it over to the next months payment instead of it going to the principle payment amount. Lots of phone calls there.
Just be careful when you go, it's better to negotate over the phone, and READ everything. The dealer is still trying to make a profit, and negotiate first, and do not tell them that you are pre-approved for anything until you get the price right on any car you want. Let them negotiate for a better rate through their financing after you lock down the price on the car. Out the door price by the way including all the fees and stuff.
Never put money down when buying a car if you can. You put 8000 down that's right your not upside down on vehicle. Now u drive vehicle and it's a total lost in 3 months.. Gues what?? I just lost that 8000 bucks u put down. Instead of putting so much down. Do nothing down France whole vehicle and get GAP insurance through ur insurance company. Now you total car right when u drive off the lot guess what u lost nothing insurance pays whatever and gap pays rest u walk out of that 28000 loan free and clear without paying anything. So why put 8k down and lose that if a car accident does happen and car is total