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If you give your information to the dealer, they WILL run your credit with every lender that they have available to them... searching for the best deal for THE DEALER, not for you.
I see a NFCU card in your signature... I'd suggest you ask Navy for a auto loan.
...or any credit union...
8.7% is not the worst rate out there, but it isn't the best either.
I woudn't let them run your credit at those scores. They're trying to push towards Nissan's financing because they get a kickback on originating the loan.
Are you sure it's the same vehicle you saw on Capital One Auto Navigator? Does the listing include a stock number at that price? If so, they should honor it, since they advertised it at that price.
I would check a local CU. They can usually beat any other rates for any car you want. With a pre-approval, you could get a better deal at the dealer. Also my CU pre-approval is good for 90 days. Pleanty of time to shop around or play hardball.
Nissan captive finance was around 6.9% for FICO 580 or higher with 80% LTV. Do you have a significant down payment? If not, you're going to get choked by the interest rate regardless of who you finance through.
I would say no to the new pricey car this year and get yourself a cheap used car that is reliable and that you can pay off in 6-12 months. Then fix your FICO issues and get a new car in a year if you like. If you do have a significant down payment to get LTV to 80%, you should be OK and you should stay above water even the first year.
Paying more than 6.9% means you will be underwater for a very long time! So be careful. Use good math!
@Anonymous wrote:
I am looking to purchase a 2017 Nissan Rogue SL with Premium Package. I used Auto Navigator with Capitalone and was pre-approved for $35k. Looking at different dealerships I came across one that’s fairly close to me and says on Auto Navigator that’s it’s $28.5k with tax and believe tag and title. Well I contacted the dealership today and the manager sent me back a message that this particular one is $31.3k. I responded that I wasn’t looking to spend more than $28.5k out the door. Then they responded that the lowest would be $29.3k BUT would have to finance with Nissan. Since they haven’t ran my credit I have no clue what the interest rate with Nissan is or if I’ll be bee approved. But with Capitalone Navigator with $1k down I’d have an interest rate of 8.73%. Which happens to be a lot lower than my last car that had an interest rate of 16% that I bought brand new out of bankruptcy.
With that being said. Would it even be worth it to have the dealership run my credit for Nissan just to see if they can beat the interest rate from Capitalone? I’m concerned about allowing them to run my credit then shop it around to different banks if Nissan won’t pick it up. Or just go with Capitalone since I’m preapproved?
Scores
Ex 612
Eq 607
TU 607
Income $99.3k annual
Advertised car prices never include tax, title & registration ("tags"), and there is usually other stuff a dealer tries to add on like "dealer prep", "clear coating", etc.
When the dealer came back with the $31.3 price was that "out the door", including tax, title, registration, etc.? If not that's bait & switch, advertising a low price and then changing it to higher price. If the dealer quote of nearly $3k higher then advertised on Navigator is before tax, title & registration be prepared for dealing with a slimy, dishonest car dealer. Check other car buying sites like Autotrader.com. You might find this same dealer advertising the same SUV at that $28.5k price there. If so, print out the listing & the Navagator listing and take it with you and demand they honor their advertised price. And on other car buying sites you might find other dealers in the area with better prices, but you'll have to check with Cap One that they honor Cap One's car buying service.
Be prepared to be very firm and not allow any dealer to run your credit, they will try everything to run your credit because they want a loan that gives them the best commission. Don't be lured by Nissan financing, manufacturer financing is geared toward higher credit scores than yours with low interest. I think you have a good plan to go with Cap One for now and get 6 months or more of payments under your belt and refinance with Navy Fed or other credit union, by then you should get a much better rate.
One last bit of advice: The last week of the month is the best time to buy a car, dealers are looking to boost their monthly sales quota and are more motivated to make the deal even if it's not as high a price they would prefer.
OP, if you qualify for NFCU you qualify for USAA. USAA's car buying tool often gets you better prices than Cap1. I don't know about Cap1, but USAA will also throw their full legal weight at dealerships that refuse to honor the USAA agreed price. Worth checking out at least.