@Anonymous wrote:
Credit I agree 100 percent. It could be credit suicide for someone trying to climb from the bottom of the ladder to apply for much in any 90 day period!
I just believe it is all relative to what you have as a track record and where you want to end up in a year or so.
6 months ago I only had 3 cards reporting and nothing else (morg paid 10 years ago) and my score was in 800's I strongly believe that credit will come in line with all markets where you must finally have to prove you are who you say you are as far as identity.
I bet from my past experience that for someone starting out the magic number will be at least 3 and most likely 5. over a year if you can end up with those numbers and age them with regular use it will all work out! Yes some of this information is nonsense, (I buy my pet products at Walmart on my AMEX) and have never seen any bad things happen! They really don't care what you buy as long as you end up paying! They make money going in and going out!
Just give me those points, I feel like a kid collecting pokey man cards!
That's a good one! 
@haulingthescoreup wrote:
A rebuilder card is available to those with shakier credit and/or lower scores. Some of the issuers include (or included) First Premiere, Tribute, Hooters, some of the Cap One cards, Orchard, most of the HSBC cards, and Continental. I wrote "included" because several programs have recently shut down, due to no one wanting to touch their portfolios, as I understand.
Rebuilder cards commonly fee you to death, including charging a fee to pay your bill online. Some have monthly AND annual fees.
So if your scores aren't very good, let's say under 620 these days, you might only be able to get a rebuilder. And there's nothing wrong with them, as the are meant as a tool in rebuilding. But after a while, the generally poor CS and the fees will make you crazy. So I always say to just get two initially, take care of them perfectly for six months, then try for a secured card from a credit union, BofA, etc., keep it going for six months while still working the first two, and then check your FICO's. By then, with the most recent 12 months of history perfectly clean, you can probably qualify for a good card, depending on what else is on your reports.
Good cards are considered those issued by credit unions and by the big-boy banks. (Heads back to favorite hiding place under dining room table as uproar commences.) Many of these banks are loathed by lots of people because of some of the actions taken within the last year in reaction to the economic mess, so you'll certainly hear plenty of folks say that BofA, Chase, AmEx, etc aren't good. A better definition of "good" might be minimal or no fees, good initial CL's or the reasonable potential for them to grow with you, clearly presented terms and conditions, and good to excellent customer service. This includes most credit union cards, which is why they've become so popular here.
--hth
Why would there be a hubbub when what you say is so true and your suggested approach so sensible? 
back atcha!