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You guys think that's bad? I just managed to get out of a lease with a terrible landlord... and we moved in with the in-laws ![]()
Definitely motivates me to buy a place quickly.
@Anonymous wrote:
Don't forget that the payment is much higher on a 15 year, and that makes it harder to qualify DTI. But if you have it, great!
^^^^This is a common misconception. It isn't "much higher" with a 15 yr loan. For example if you borrow $200k on a 30 yr with 3.625% interest your monthly P&I payment is $912.10; if you borrow the same $200k on a 15 yr amortization, you will have a lower rate, say 2.95%, and your payment will be $1376.36 As you can see, the payment is about 50% higher, but it is for half the time period. So you save big over the long term. (These payments don't include anything other than the P&I so you can compare apples to apples.)
You save 180 mths x 912.10/mth = $164,178 in interest. That's a lot of interest that you don't have to pay on a 15 yr that you would be paying on a 30 yr.
The 15 yr rate is lower than the 30 yr rate almost always.
If you can do it, it is well worth it so you end up actually owning your home or having lots of equity by the time you sell.
+1 More good advice from a real estate professional
@namvet wrote:+1 More good advice from a real estate professional
You probably can give better examples...![]()
How are you? I haven't seen you around in a while.
Probably can't give any better advice than you. I'm doing well thanks! I'm here most every day. Keep up the good work.
Holy wow! I just ran some numbers and the money ou save is pretty crazy...we could save $81,000 in interest if we went with a 15 year loan at 2.75% vs 30 year at 3.5%.
Payment would be $1920 vs $1372 (PITI) but 15 years seems sooo much shorter than 30.
@Anonymous wrote:Holy wow! I just ran some numbers and the money ou save is pretty crazy...we could save $81,000 in interest if we went with a 15 year loan at 2.75% vs 30 year at 3.5%.
Payment would be $1920 vs $1372 (PITI) but 15 years seems sooo much shorter than 30.
It is so much shorter! ![]()
Not only that, but say you sell it in 10 years, look at the amount you would owe vs what you would owe after 10 yrs on a 30 yr loan. Go to bankrate.com and plug in your figures and pull the amortization schedule to compare. It is an amazing savings that you can put into your next home or other investment when it comes time to sell.
This is fantastic news! We can put 20% down, and DTI is low with high salary. I'm just waiting for 5 baddies to come off - which I think we should be able to get above 620 (or higher) pretty easy. Thanks so much for sharing this! We had wanted to do a 15 yr loan in order to pay off the home quicker as we want to own it outright faster than 30 years but I thought we would need much higher scores.
Question - Do they factor in husband and wife dti even though the mortgage will be under one name? DTI will still be low but just trying to figure out how much paperwork I should start gathering for explanations.
Thanks all!!
@StartingOver10 wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:
Don't forget that the payment is much higher on a 15 year, and that makes it harder to qualify DTI. But if you have it, great!^^^^This is a common misconception. It isn't "much higher" with a 15 yr loan. For example if you borrow $200k on a 30 yr with 3.625% interest your monthly P&I payment is $912.10; if you borrow the same $200k on a 15 yr amortization, you will have a lower rate, say 2.95%, and your payment will be $1376.36 As you can see, the payment is about 50% higher, but it is for half the time period. So you save big over the long term. (These payments don't include anything other than the P&I so you can compare apples to apples.)
You save 180 mths x 912.10/mth = $164,178 in interest. That's a lot of interest that you don't have to pay on a 15 yr that you would be paying on a 30 yr.
The 15 yr rate is lower than the 30 yr rate almost always.
If you can do it, it is well worth it so you end up actually owning your home or having lots of equity by the time you sell.
I think you missed my point. The payment on a 15 yr is (as you mention in the example you gave) about 50% higher. If you are AT ALL tight on DTI (either front-end or even back-end) you might not qualify for the 15 year mortgage. Using your example, if the borrower's income is $50,000 gross annually, the maximum house payment (including insurance, taxes, etc.) allowed would be $1166 (or 28% DTI, i.e. monthly house payment to monthly gross income).
They would not qualify for the house (in your example) in a 15 year term because their front end DTI is 33%, but they WOULD for a 30 year term. In fact, the max allowable TOTAL (or back-end) DTI in a conventional mortgage is 36%, so even if you made a bit more money and your front-end DTI was right at 28%, that leaves you only 8% of your monthly income for any other bills, like student loans, car payments, child support payments, etc.
Of course, it's always better to pay off your debt at a lower rate and as quickly as possible, but if your DTI is too high on a 15 year, you might still qualify at 30 year. You can still try to pay off early.
In fact, if I were the borrower in your example and I wanted that house, I would take the 30 year and make sure there isn't a prepayment penalty, then make higher payments needed to fully payoff in 15 years. The added benefit to that is if anything bad should happen, like losing my job, I would still have a minimum payment under $1000 a month, rather than one closer to $1400 a month.
If you don't understand DTI and you are going through the process of buying a house, Bankrate.com has an easy to understand example in its "Mortgage Basics": http://www.bankrate.com/finance/mortgages/how-much-house-can-you-buy--1.aspx
Note, these DTI percentages are for conventional. For FHA, it looks like the DTI is 29% front end, and 41% back end.