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I grew up not understanding the importance of credit. My father died when I was 13 so he never taught me. Now that I understand how important credit is, I need to rebuild it. I currently have a credit score of Experian: 549 Equifax: 563 and Transunion: 549. Here is how my credit report breaks down:
Civil Judgement filed 2/3/2005 $1,703. (repossession of a car)
Open account @ Allied INT 4/29/2005 $324
Closed account @ Amsher 5/1/2009 $200
Closed account @ ERC 8/19/2009 $249
Unpaid account @ Nwide 9/1/2009 $1846
Closed account @ Palisades 6/1/2007 $3,744
closed account @ Unique 7/1/2008 $1186
open account @ Unique 6/19/2003 $159
closed account @ AFNI 9/1/2008 $517
Student loans in good standing $23,453
I live in Florida and work in IT. I have been at my current job for about a year now and I am only making about $35k. However, I am coming into some decent money in the near future that I can use to start paying on these accounts.
How should I pay these accounts? All of them are in collections with the exception of my student loans and the judgement from 2005. Do I pay these collection agencies directly in full or should I settle with them? Should I pay the original creditors? Does it make a difference if I settle? How do I want these accounts to be reported on my credit report? Should I pay the judgment? It should fall off in 2 years. My goals are to get my credit score over 700 and purchase a home. A lot of questions I know...thanks for your help!
looks like you should invest in lots and lots of stamps.
Your first step will be to get validation of debt (DV) all of those collection accounts. If they respond with valid information, start working on PFD letters. You might be able to pull off settle for deletes on a few. Settled in full doesn't look as good as paid in full, your best option would be to get the charge-offs and collections removed period. If you don't have anything else open in the way of trade lines you might want to consider a few lines to start rebuilding.
Thanks everyone for your input...I know all of the accounts are valid. So I don't think there's really a need to validate the debts. I'm curious however, as to how to write a PFD letter. Can I get a PFD letter from somewhere or is there a proper format? I talked to a collection agency earlier and they said they don't delete or remove stuff off of credit reports.
I was really hoping that settling on all of these accounts this month with the exception of the judgement, combined with a secured loan/credit card and good pay history would put me over 600 in a month or two...am I wrong? Or is that being too optimistic?
@Anonymous wrote:I grew up not understanding the importance of credit. My father died when I was 13 so he never taught me. Now that I understand how important credit is, I need to rebuild it. I currently have a credit score of Experian: 549 Equifax: 563 and Transunion: 549. Here is how my credit report breaks down:
Hello and welcome to the forums.
One thing I will ask is where did you get those scores? No one has been able to pull their own Experian score since last February. Creditors can pull Experian and also there is a CU in Pennsylvania that supplies that information to it's members only. You can only buy true FICO scores at a few places. One place is here at myfico. I suggest you do an internet search for "myfico discount codes" to save a little money. You can also purchase your Equifax score at www.equifax.com and your Transunion score at www.transunioncs.com.
From a BK years ago to:
7/09 TU-742 EQ- 779
8/09 TU-765 EQ- 783
9/09 EX pulled by lender 802
You can do the same thing with hard work.
kinganthony wrote:
I paid for my credit report and credit score from all 3 at annualcreditreport.com. I was told that this was a reliable site
The score purchased from Equifax.com is a real FICO for EQ only. However, the two scores from Experian and TransUnion are not FICO scores. Their site and info are reliable, but lenders don't use those two scores.
Lots to consider. When it comes to collections, no one can offer firm advice, only options.
There is one primary thing you want to establish once a CA has reported to your CR. That is critical.
What is the DOFD on the OC account that led up to the CA? Important for two reasons.... it affixes the date that the CA must drop from credit reporting (7 1/2 years from the DOFD), and,
IN most most states, it also sets the date of running of the statute of limitations for legal action.
How to pay a CA has many options. It is like being at a craps table it Vegas.
A risk taker will go for it all, and offer the CA a PFD. If they accept, it fullfills the debt, and if granted in prior written commitment, will remove it from your CR, and thus FICO scoring. But risky because it is just a conditional offer that they dont even have to respond to. And apparently, your CA has already told you that they dont do deletions. You can still dangle money in their face, and take your chances. But not a great bet.
If you are conserative in risking futher CA action, you just pay in full (PIF). This discharges the debt, and clears the table. but only updates CA status, which does not remove it from credit scoring.
The highest step in risk taking is to ignore the CA, You do this if you have no intent on paying the debt, and are wiilling to risk legal action against you.
If you take that step, you had better know your state statute of limititations (SOL) before your day in court.