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Feeling a bit defeated tonight. I've always had to have a co-signer on an auto loan, and I FINALLY got an approval today (after allowing a dealership to check on a whim). My credit is still a work in progress as I've got some baddies that need attention, and I am at 54% CU on cards. My midscore for Auto 8 is a 640. I got approved for a loan of about 24k - for the used vehicle and 3k payoff of my current vehicle; however, it was going to require $500 down (doable) and a monthly payment of $541 (not doable), so I had to decline the vehicle. The sales person I was working with said it was entirely due to credit, and so I'm assuming the interest rate was coming back high (she didn't disclose, as I had declined to go forward). I guess I'm just feeling like I can't win for losing because I've been working so dang hard at getting my credit back up after my ex, and COVID, and then being on short-term disability after losing my Dad. My original plan, prior to this spur of the moment application, was to apply for a $10k personal loan with my Credit Union next month, after my new CLI hit to decrease my utilization - payoff my current vehicle, all of my cards, and do PIF for my auto policy renewal, so I'll have about $750 extra at my disposal per month for a bit, and use that to pay off some of the baddies since most are <1k. Would this improve my Auto scores, in addition to my general FICO? I'd like to try for another auto app in the Fall with, hopefully, more favorable figures. TIA.
What is keeping you from just staying with your current vehicle? Usually that is the least expensive option long term, and that should get you to a point where you are out of debt and have higher scores sooner than incurring new debt for a new(er) car.
Chapter 13:
I categorically refuse to do AZEO!
My current vehicle has 170k miles on it. While it has no major problems presently, aside from needing shocks, it goes without saying that it is only a matter of time before a larger issue arises. My family also needs to travel a lot as we live in a very rural community and so our day to day isn't a matter of 2 miles here and there. It will definitely need to be traded, at least by early next year, at the latest.
@BuildingDreams114 wrote:My current vehicle has 170k miles on it. While it has no major problems presently, aside from needing shocks, it goes without saying that it is only a matter of time before a larger issue arises. My family also needs to travel a lot as we live in a very rural community and so our day to day isn't a matter of 2 miles here and there. It will definitely need to be traded, at least by early next year, at the latest.
The fact your vehicle has 170,000 miles on the clock does not in any way mean a prohibitively high cost repair will arise; the fact is, these days, many cars are considered barely broken in at that point. True, older cars need more care, but even with the periodic extra expense, they are also still considerably less expensive on an annual basis compared to a new(er) car. Said another way, I don't accept the "...goes without saying..." premis; some of the most reliable cars I've ever owned had well north of 200,000 miles on the clock.
Chapter 13:
I categorically refuse to do AZEO!
While I respect your opinion, and I do know some people who have had the same experience, I also do not trust this car quite that far. The engine blew at 125k and I had to replace with a used one, so it's not even on its original engine at this point.. This isn't one of the 'good old cars' from before everything went digital and we could fix it all ourselves. It's a 2016, that I still can't do half of it on my own.
@Horseshoez wrote:
@BuildingDreams114 wrote:My current vehicle has 170k miles on it. While it has no major problems presently, aside from needing shocks, it goes without saying that it is only a matter of time before a larger issue arises. My family also needs to travel a lot as we live in a very rural community and so our day to day isn't a matter of 2 miles here and there. It will definitely need to be traded, at least by early next year, at the latest.
The fact your vehicle has 170,000 miles on the clock does not in any way mean a prohibitively high cost repair will arise; the fact is, these days, many cars are considered barely broken in at that point. True, older cars need more care, but even with the periodic extra expense, they are also still considerably less expensive on an annual basis compared to a new(er) car. Said another way, I don't accept the "...goes without saying..." premis; some of the most reliable cars I've ever owned had well north of 200,000 miles on the clock.
I have an 02 Lexus with just over 190K. Paid $3100 for it during the before-times, late 2019 in fact, so just before. The V6 still runs like a dream. Transmission is a little slow from 2 to 3, but it's been that way since before I got it, and it isn't getting worse, so I live with it. (Solenoid, known issue.) Sure I've put a couple thousand in new parts into it over the years, but TCO is still very cheap.
It's not the coolest car in world - that's for darn sure. But I'd rather put large monthly deposits into savings and investments than to make large monthly payments to the auto finance company. That's also for darn sure.
While you're working on your credit, put some effort into learning which used cars are more reliable and which aren't. You can get a good reliable used vehicle for half of that $24K, one that could last years. Put the money you save in an investment account each month, or a HYSA. See where that gets you.
Good luck!
@BuildingDreams114 wrote:The engine blew at 125k and I had to replace with a used one, so it's not even on its original engine at this point.. This isn't one of the 'good old cars' from before everything went digital and we could fix it all ourselves. It's a 2016, that I still can't do half of it on my own.
Sounds like a Kia or Hyundai.
Still even so, and engine and some shocks are a lot cheaper in the long run that a new $24K auto loan plus $3K of negative equity. Based of the numbers you listed in the first post, I'm going to assume the APR was 12% for a 72 month loan, so here is what I calculated.
For a monthly payment of $541.49.
The behind the scenes math is :
@Patient957 wrote:I have an 02 Lexus with just over 190K. Paid $3100 for it during the before-times, late 2019 in fact, so just before.
I drive a 2000 Avalon, practically the same car as your Lexus without the fancy interior trim. Mine only has 160,000 miles and I paid $1,700 for it. I'm going to drive it until it dies on the road, then have AAA tow it to the pick-and-pull and get $400 back.
FICO® 8: 806 (Eq) · 794 (Ex) · 812 (TU)
OP, I'm going to agree with the other posters here: find a more reasonably priced vehicle that meets your need and is within your budget. I understand the worry with driving an older car that needs some work. But, the solution doesn't have to be getting a new or expensive car. Try finding an older model with less miles. Those can be great vehicles. I found a 2004 Sienna for my wife that only had 95,000 miles on it for $4,000. I had to change the timing belt for $1k, but I have put 25,000 miles on it since and it should go another 100,000 miles at least. If you are willing to drive a not-so-cool older car, you probably can accomplish some of your financial goals quicker. Good luck with whatever you decide.
FICO® 8: 806 (Eq) · 794 (Ex) · 812 (TU)
@citymunky wrote:
- Total Interest: $11,289.60
This hurts me just thinking about it. I despise paying interest.
I know with 100% certainty the OP can find a reliable car for waaaay less than $24k. Toyota, baby. That's where it's at.
FICO® 8: 806 (Eq) · 794 (Ex) · 812 (TU)