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Scammed? Or Approved?

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Loquat
Moderator Emeritus

Re: Scammed? Or Approved?


@Anonymouswrote:

Update: 

 

Today I got a call from Ally's Contract processing and Underwriting office. I was not able to answer and will be reaching out tomorrow morning. Should I be worried?!?


See my response in your other thread Call from lender after purchasing vehicle

Message 11 of 13
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Scammed? Or Approved?

this is similar to my situation. I have dealer plates though. When i signed the paperwork, i asked the finance manager if the finance special (0.9%) was good with Toyota Financial, he said yes. My sales guy said DMV was having an issue with the system and i should have my new plates soon. Today(8 days later), when i called about my plates, the sales guy said there was one minor issue with receiving funding that’s why i don’t have the plates. Now I’m confused. After googling, everyone is mentioning a “spot delivery” deal. I am not sure if it’s legal in CT but in they did have me sign a loaner vehicle agreement for the dealer plates. The box in the corner says registration pending. However, i am not sure if the “agreement” constitutes as a conditional financing agreement.
Message 12 of 13
Anonymous
Not applicable

Re: Scammed? Or Approved?

They called to either confirm your purchase and financing, tell you to bring the car back to the dealer, or increase your APR %. If there was no finalization from the underwriters the moment you took the car home, there's no way to guarantee the car is yours until you make your first payment. 

 

This happened to me when I bought my last car. The dealer will get you hyped about the car, let you take it home with a "pre-approved" contract that has not been looked at by the financing company/underwriter. So I had my car for about a week and was called by the finance manager at the dealer I bought the car from. He informed me he had bad news. Which ended up not being so bad. They had to increase the APR by 1.2% from 3.5% "pre-approval APR". So I had the option to go back to the dealer, pick up my down payment and return the car or just take the 1.2% more. Luckily I was dealing with an ethical dealer, rare right? They ate the 1.2% in the cost of the car in order to compensate for the APR % loss I had. Long in the short, it really just depends on the dealer you buy your car from. I've been to and heard about really sketchy dealers. There are dealers in my area that will sell you a car and loop you into a 72 month loan at 24% APR.

 

The most effective thing to do to get a lower APR is to ask what the APR would be if you shorten the auto loan term. Say if you had an approval for 60 months at 10%, ask what the APR will be for a 48 month loan. You'll be pleasantly surprised, that extra 12 months takes a toll (in a good way) on that APR, bring it down to maybe 5% APR. Of course, this all depends on your credit situation.

Message 13 of 13
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