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Hello All,
Question: I am looking at the CSR and trying to determine if I want to apply for it. I know the AF is crazy, but there are several perks that I can (with my current spend alone) utilize that would offset the cost. I'm most interested in the 100k UR points that I can transfer to one of their travel partners, the travel credits (the one time $500 credit and the annual $300 credit), the $250 Apple+ credit.
I have a think credit profile, FICO 8 scores 780+ across the board. 1 inq in last year, AAoA 11 years, oldest account 25 years, 1 late payments (30 day) showing on credit report from 2019, my debt to credit ratio is under 10% (mainly because I allow my amex gold card to post statement balance, but i PIF monthly).
I like to travel. Delta is my preferred airline and Hilton is preferred hotel. I currently use the Amex credit ecosystem for everyday use to stack points/skymiles. However, I am beginning to expand my hotel preferences to Hyatt. I also need a no FTF card that's not Amex.
Do you think it makes sense to add this card?
What are the estimated underwriting requirements for this card?
Does Chase frown upon downgrading after the 1st year? Which I would downgrade to CSP once it's safe to do so.
I haven't applied for a credit card in forever. Thanks in advance for all of the feedback.
You are right! I have been saying for months that I need to work to get this late off. I've just been in report maintenance mode for the last few years and not caring too much since it's my only baddie and so old. Procrastination at its finest. 🤣
OAN: I'm now rethinking this card because I have Apple One family plan and it's not eligible for the credit.
does Chase allow for product downgrade after year 1?
You’ve got a really strong profile for the Chase Sapphire Reserve; your FICO 8 scores are over 780; only 1 inquiry in the last year; AAoA is 11 years with a 25-year-old oldest account; utilization is under 10% and you pay in full; and the one 30-day late from 2019 is aging out and likely not an issue.
Based on that, you should have excellent odds of approval as long as you’re under 5/24. Chase tends to be pretty conservative, but your profile checks all the boxes.
As for your travel setup, it makes total sense to add the CSR to your ecosystem. You’re already using Amex Gold to stack points and SkyMiles; now you’re leaning toward Hyatt, which is a great Chase UR partner; and you need a no-foreign-transaction-fee card that’s not Amex — CSR fits that role perfectly.
Yes, the annual fee is steep, but if you can maximize the $300 travel credit, the $250 Apple+ credit, and the 100k UR points, then the net cost becomes very manageable.
Downgrading after 12 months to the CSP is a common strategy and generally fine. Just don’t downgrade before the first year, or Chase may claw back your bonus.
In short: go for it. Solid profile, smart travel goals, and good timing if you’re shifting toward Hyatt. Best of luck; let us know how it goes!
@DSTforlife wrote:You are right! I have been saying for months that I need to work to get this late off. I've just been in report maintenance mode for the last few years and not caring too much since it's my only baddie and so old. Procrastination at its finest. 🤣
OAN: I'm now rethinking this card because I have Apple One family plan and it's not eligible for the credit.
does Chase allow for product downgrade after year 1?
You can downgrade the CSR after a year to a CSP or to one of the Freedom cards and Chase will approve with a late-stage 30 day late reporting, keeping in mind that not many people with a 30 day late reporting have FICO 8 scores up in the 780 range.
You can try making early-exclusion requests to remove that 30 day late but success isn't guaranteed and you'll need to research to discover how early nowadays each of the CRAs will consider honoring a request. Each CRA has a different threshold and historically IIRC it has ranged from between 1 month to 6 months early.
Do you have any Mastercard/AMEX/Visa/Discover cards with at least a $10K credit limit? Chase prefers to see prior experience with at least 1 card whose credit limit is/was at least at the minimum starting limit of the card applied for, and the minimum starting limit for the CSR is $10K.
@coldfusion wrote:
@DSTforlife wrote:You are right! I have been saying for months that I need to work to get this late off. I've just been in report maintenance mode for the last few years and not caring too much since it's my only baddie and so old. Procrastination at its finest. 🤣
OAN: I'm now rethinking this card because I have Apple One family plan and it's not eligible for the credit.
does Chase allow for product downgrade after year 1?
You can downgrade the CSR after a year to a CSP or to one of the Freedom cards and Chase will approve with a late-stage 30 day late reporting, keeping in mind that not many people with a 30 day late reporting have FICO 8 scores up in the 780 range.
You can try making early-exclusion requests to remove that 30 day late but success isn't guaranteed and you'll need to research to discover how early nowadays each of the CRAs will consider honoring a request. Each CRA has a different threshold and historically IIRC it has ranged from between 1 month to 6 months early.
Do you have any Mastercard/AMEX/Visa/Discover cards with at least a $10K credit limit? Chase prefers to see prior experience with at least 1 card whose credit limit is/was at least at the minimum starting limit of the card applied for, and the minimum starting limit for the CSR is $10K.
I decided to apply for the CSP instead. not being able to use the Apple credit for my Apple One account made it hard to justify. I was approved for 20k. I have multiple credit cards with over 10k and am solidly embedded into the Amex ecosystem of rewards, but i need a VISA/MC with no FTF.
once i get the sub, i'm not sure how much i will actually use the card though. i also have a CFU with a 20k cl. i'm debating whether to ask to move all but 1k over to the CSP. the only thing stopping me is the fact that i get 1.5x UR points on CFU and i pay my DD's college tuition using the card....and of course pay it off before the cycle closes.
For some reason, i'm always on edge when I apply for any type of credit....even though i know my credit profile is very strong. I guess it's just the worry-wart in me. Now that it is done, i'll be heading back into my credit hole. LOL
I'll work on disputing the late payment this weekend....if for no other reason than to see if it is still depressing my scores.
thank you for your feedback
DST,
I believe coldfusion is suggesting you contact the creditors and request an early exclusion (where they agree to ask the bureaus to exclude it from you report(s) earlier than it was due to come off).
But, with all due respect to my friend mr. fusion (even though his method probably is the more 'appropriate' method), I strongly recommend you just flat out dispute it. I would be surprised if you don't see it gone in 30 days after the dispute. With an early exclusion request, you're hoping the creditor does something, with a dispute, you are hoping the creditor does nothing! lol
thank you. i misunderstood. the late was a fluke on my part and on an account that was closed in 2020....so there's no need to call them. if the dispute doesn't work, it won't be a big deal.
Disputes are for inaccurately reported information, lying and saying the late is not legitimate when it is will almost never work, and it will probably just piss off the lender and they can possibly close your account. If you no longer have any accounts with them, that's not really an issue, but I still highly doubt it will work.
a goodwill request is the correct course of action to remove a late, especially if there's only 1.



@SRT4kid93 wrote:Disputes are for inaccurately reported information, lying and saying the late is not legitimate when it is will almost never work, and it will probably just piss off the lender and they can possibly close your account. If you no longer have any accounts with them, that's not really an issue, but I still highly doubt it will work.
a goodwill request is the correct course of action to remove a late, especially if there's only 1.
You can debate with me my morals and scruples all day long. At the end of the day, I'd probably concede to you. But, I promise you, disputing the late can and will work. Trust me.