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Considerations for the third step of building

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Anonymalous
Valued Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building


@uncredited wrote:

Should I pay disco to 0 even though that means I'm all zero for over a week until the 3rd when Citi reports; or let disco report a balance and then let City report a balance until next months disco even though that means a bit less than a month with balances reported for both?  Only alternative is just keep disco as the one reporting a balance but that will be harder to manage as Citi is the dd now.


You're not applying for credit right away, so all zeroes doesn't matter. You might as well experiment. It'll give you a chance to see how the alerts work, in the credit monitoring systems you're using. When I got my last two cards, I switched the card carrying a balance, and ended up with all zeros briefly for a couple days. The first was a 17 point hit, the second was 14. (EX FICO 8s.)

Message 11 of 19
uncredited
Frequent Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

Maybe the better question is "what's worse, all zeroes or all balances?" I think either situation is unavoidable this one time, so might as well pick the less bad one.  I would assume all balances makes more sense and is less penalized than all zeroes since that reflects real world card usage for the majority of cardholders rather than MyFICO neuroticism.  Most cardholders don't chase down paydowns before statement day and ignore auto pays on all their cards.  But FICO is itself neurotic, so I'm not confident banking on that (haha, ha....ha.)

Message 12 of 19
Kforce
Valued Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building


@uncredited wrote:

 

@Kforce  that 7 year aaoc is a massive difference for "insufficient history" vs 1 though.  I'm sure that's the whole difference right there, at least as far as prequal metrics... Hard to say with apps.

The oldest is 7, her average would be about 4.5, so yes she has time on you.

No money and ultra thin file.

I'll have to explore Bill pay. I've honestly never used it because I've never trusted it with no control over when they pay vs pull that's reliable, or manual for regular bills. The system works the same, you are just sending $ (push), instead of requesting (Pull)

Either way the issuer doing the work need the others account info, date to set in motion, and money amount. (who, when, $)

The big difference in pushing is that it bypass's CC issuers limits (Amount , usually the current balance), how often (Once a week or a number like 5) and even the when (Can't pull until last payment cleared and post) , etc.

I know very little about how it works (like how do they know how much to pay, (You tell them)  or do you preset a guesstimate?

If setting a monthly auto payment, yes it would be an amount you pick. How reliable is posting, etc?  Just as reliable as from the CC issuers end.  * Note: One should never wait until the last second for a payment.  Errors can happened with any issuer.  One should pay and then check that it got there a few days after initiating a payment auto or manual, push or pull., any issuers.  *** Always check ! ***    For the dd card it doesn't matter, I monitor it anyway. But for disco and other future cards it sounds very helpful for managing the zeros.  I hate that the pulls don't let you pay before statement... But then as above normal people don't do that anyway....  

 

I didn't even know you could move statement dates? 

Due dates I knew so least for some cards but not statement. 

Yes you are correct the thing you ask too move is the Due Date.  The trick is that for most issuers changing the due date automatically changes the statement date.  This is why I move dates close to the end of month (EOM), I use the 25th as Due Date Request.  Some only have statement dates near or at EOM, and a couple others report to credit bureaus at EOM no mater when due or statement post. A few CU's/Banks have a fixed statement (Almost always EOM or a set date late in month like 28th or 30th).   If one moves due date to 25th (example), statements and reporting should fall between 28 and EOM.

 

Keeps all due, statement and reporting in about a week's time period.

Makes paying, reporting and statement tracking a non issue.

 

Nothing easy about 12 cards with random due, statement and reporting.

I don't need reminders or a spreadsheet for tracking dates to pay or know when my score's should update.

Just make things easy.

 

A few CC issuers do give instant credit for a payment from their web portal for a pull.  If you want to pay last minute and hope everything goes well, it can be a couple days faster by pulling.

 

 Billpay push usually get to CC issuer 1-2 days and most post in 1-3 days so there is a 3-5 day delay before credit to your account.  This delay varies by billpay issuer and CC issuer.  My CU (Billpay) to AOD =  2 days, average with using on 10+ accounts was 4 days. (Credit posting)

 

Message 13 of 19
uncredited
Frequent Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

@KforceI'm not totally sure how well that format would work for me if I'm still specifying the amount etc. But between your explanation and a recent post I saw from someone else, socal maybe, in another thread I thought I might explore it a bit. So I went to my banks bill pay and it starts with an error that seems to be because I don't have any transfer set up.  Then I went to the create payee page and set up discover card from their companies list. I filled out the account number twice, phone number, and a nickname. Hit submit.  "Exception in FINSERV".... Try again, same thing.

 

Soooo... I'm sure a call to their tech support probably can resolve that but my confidence in trusting their outsourced bill pay IT for important payments just dropped faster than my FICO scores after opening a new thin file account... 😱  Not the best introduction.  Though it does sound useful if it's actually reliable.

 

Fwiw worries about last minute payment has more to do with paying before reporting but close enough that new charges don't post for azeo than actual last minute on terms of late/interest.

Message 14 of 19
uncredited
Frequent Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

Here's another question for everyone.  Yes I know it's massively "overthinking" it, but I'm still new enough that I'm not sure what has positive or negative overall effect beyond temporary scores.  This is regarding the first statement on the new Citi account.  Is there any particular consensus on if it's best, when letting a balance post, in terms of either long term for the scores, for the algorithms/trended data, or for future account CLIs, to let larger balances post rather than trying to keep it to that low "just a few dollars" minimum?

 

"Larger balances" to a lot of folks around here means $10k.  I just mean brackets of $200-2000.  I know I've seen that some banks want to see high use but don't care about statement balance, some want to see high statement balance, some care about neither, etc.  I've seen talk about other lenders wanting near-max reported, which I definitely wouldn't do, and is on any one card now beyond normal spend.

 

With the lone Disco account I tried to maintain reported statement balances at around $500.  Sometimes $100, sometimes 350, one time 650 or so.  Ranges of 8-23% util.  I'd pay before statement down to those amounts and let that amount sit.  I am assuming that showing real use balances and not always weirdly groomed minimums probably looks better overall long term at least for some lenders some of the time.

 

This month I already have the new account hit, and I'll probably get a slight ding for having 2 accounts now reporting, though one will be a grand total of $6.47, a balance (so far, seems like the better option than all zero, and less artificial?)  Last month total and account util was 0.5% ($15 and change), so any increase there and I'll get a further points ding, though total CL jumped from $3000 to $7900.  Should I just maintain that 0.5% this time with no more than $39 reporting between the two cards, bring reported balances up to my old normal $500-ish (which will be much lower util than it used to be and under 10%), keep the same average util at 18% or so (now $1400-ish) to show decent usage to the new lender, or is that all overthinking it and it doesn't really matter at all?

Message 15 of 19
Kforce
Valued Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

You need to get a hobby, maybe drinking beer and fishing, or hiking with a camera.

Overthinking = Yes.

Azeo = Not needed unless new loan, or just playing to see where your high score sits.

Controlling utilization to make issuers happy = wasting your time.

 

The new cards are for you to earn rewards, have purchase protection, float money, start building credit history.

 

Enjoy the rewards and use them for your needs.

Don't drive yourself crazy trying to make issuers happy.

Have had issuers give auto increases on cards never used.

Cards with very heavy use move like a snail.

 

You are trying to make sense of ever changing, unknown, unproven, arguable facts, about issuers that are changing policies as we type.

Message 16 of 19
Kforce
Valued Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

A new thread with one reason that Push Payments can have an advantage over Pulling from CC issuer.

You don't have to worry about account being closed or other AA from NSF.

Or AA or closure from entering a bad routing or account number.

 

With billpay you can't send money if it is not there, and if it doesn't get too the CC issuer, they never know.

 

 

 

 

 

Message 17 of 19
Remedios
Credit Mentor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

I've removed the link to a thread, there is no need to use someone's misfortune as a cautionary tale on a day it actually happened to them and it's obviously causing them grief. Right now, it's just salt on newly opened wound. 

 

Describing what can happen is cautionary enough. 

Message 18 of 19
uncredited
Frequent Contributor

Re: Considerations for the third step of building

So I'm starting a new hobby hiking with a camera to fish while drinking beer, and I'm wondering which card should I put each of these expenses on?  Or do I need a new card with rewards for each?  Which one should I get first?......... I kid, I kid.... Smiley Happy

 

Seriously, that's good info, and extremely on point. That's exaclty the kind of details I'm fussing over, and would rather not fuss over, and that answer says it all.  I will have to worry about it in the not-too-distant future when I do app again, but otherwise what you recommend is that "dream" of normal use I wanted to get to anyway.

 

Except the "purchase protection" part.....eventually one of those future cards will have it.  Someday... Smiley Happy

 

Also interesting about the push vs pull.  I never even thought about that sort of thing, and I'm sure most people pay by pull.   In my brain pull just makes a lot more sense than push where you're fumbling with manually entered amounts and waiting for the other side to receive a payment they don't know is coming. I, personally find that less comforting than the pull.  But you raise a good point.  And a derog for manually messing up the routing number at initial entry is a fear I never even had before now..... (thankfully not an issue on any current card, both are in place and pulling fine, but next time...) )

 

I'm still not sure if I'll really use it or not.  That's good reasoning, but I do think I can better manage the pull vs push.

Message 19 of 19
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