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APR is the interest rate, so yes.
Unfortunately there's no easy way to figure out what sort of limit you'd qualify for. You can look at your existing accounts and your credit profile to try to make an educated guess but that requires an understanding of how credit is assessed. On top of that, creditors and products don't all have idenitical underwriting criteria so what you'd qualify for can vary from one creditor to another and even from one product to another.
It's never just about score but you can refer to resources such as the Credit Pulls Database to determine the CRA and scoring model used in the decision for a given creditor/product and then go pull that specific score.
@Anonymous wrote:
I have a $2000 balance from a 24% card I would love to transfer.
Is this the only card you have? Is this the only credit account that you have? What's the revolving utilziation on that card? Revolving utilization is simply balance(s) / limit(s)/ Both the revovling utilization for each of your cards and your overall revolving utilization for all your cards matter. As an example, if that card has a $10,000 limit:
$2,000 / $10,000 = 20%
General advice is do not exceeed 30%. If you have hiigh revolving utilization then don't rely on opening a new account to solve your problem. The revolving utilization on the new card you intend to transfer to will matter as well. If you're looking to transfer your $2K balance and his $8K balance that's a total of $10K, Ideally you'd want a new card with a limit of at least $30K. If you can't do that then you'd need to pay down the revolving utilization as quickly as possible on the new card after transferring the balances.
However, it's impossible to tell you if you'd stand to get sufficient limits to transfer those balances without much more information. You may just need to pay down your debt. If you can give us a better idea of your credit profile we can provide feedback. Look at your credit reports and consider the FICO scoring factors:
http://www.myfico.com/crediteducation/whatsinyourscore.aspx
How is your Payment History? Do you have any lates or derogs impacting Payment History?
What is your revolving utilization like?
How is your Average Age of Accounts? How many accounts, both closed and open are on your reports?
What's your mix of credit like? Do you only have revolving accounts (e.g. credit cards)? Do you have any installements (student loans, auto loans, mortgage, etc)?
For New Credit, how many new accounts (2 years or less) are on your reports? How many hard pulls/inquiries and how old are each of them?
I know that's a lot all at once but we would really need a lot more information to begin to attempt to respond.
For the best responses, tell us a bit more about your credit profile and you will get solid suggestions on how to proceed.
@Anonymous wrote:For the best responses, tell us a bit more about your credit profile and you will get solid suggestions on how to proceed.
Yes...
@takeshi74 wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:
I have a $2000 balance from a 24% card I would love to transfer.Is this the only card you have? Is this the only credit account that you have? What's the revolving utilziation on that card? Revolving utilization is simply balance(s) / limit(s)/ Both the revovling utilization for each of your cards and your overall revolving utilization for all your cards matter. As an example, if that card has a $10,000 limit:
$2,000 / $10,000 = 20%
General advice is do not exceeed 30%. If you have hiigh revolving utilization then don't rely on opening a new account to solve your problem. The revolving utilization on the new card you intend to transfer to will matter as well. If you're looking to transfer your $2K balance and his $8K balance that's a total of $10K, Ideally you'd want a new card with a limit of at least $30K. If you can't do that then you'd need to pay down the revolving utilization as quickly as possible on the new card after transferring the balances.
For the most part I very much agree with all of Takeshi's points, except I do have a slightly different take on the above comment. All of that is very much true in general for maintaining good credit, but it sounds like the OP's personal priorities and situation may be different than strictly maintaining good credit (please correct me if I'm wrong).
You're not planning to be on the mortgage right, just your boyfriend? In that case your credit score isn't relevant to the mortgage, and while I would never actively encourage someone to max out a credit card and tank their scores, if getting the mortgage and getting into a safer neighborhood is your priority than that could certainly be extenuating circumstances.
Are you concerned with doing anything else with your credit in the near term like getting a car loan, personal loan, etc.? Hurting your score through utilization, and even triggering balance chasing AA (adverse action) can be a fairly short-term, correctable problem as long as you're able to pay off the balance while it's under the 0% terms. Missing a payment, having a late payment, or other derogatory accounts is much more serious and takes much longer to correct (often requiring you to wait 7 years for the bad stuff to age off). By contrast your utilization has no 'memory' component in the scoring; it's just whatever your utilization is in that moment. So if you have it at 80% for awhile, absolutely that's going to be terrible for your credit and may cause AA that could have other negative effects, but from a utilization standpoint the damage is completely erased once the balance is paid off.
So I would say focus on what makes the most financial sense in terms of actual cash dollars as well as what makes the most sense for your family. Sacrificing your credit score in the short term (in a way that is relatively easy to fix if you have funds) for the sake of helping your partner qualify for a mortgage and getting yourselves and child into a safer environment doesn't sound like the worst idea to me, especially if it's truly only affecting your score on paper and not costing you money.
Of course there are a lot of caveats like the security and stability of your relationship, whether or not you have any other solutions, and of course whether or not you will be able to pay the balance in full before the 0% terms expire (and remember your expenses are likely to rise with the purchase of a new home and as homeowners having a solid emergency fund in place becomes more important than ever. So make sure to budget for that and crunch the numbers).
Anyway, I realize that's not what you asked and all this is just a side point, but I'm just saying you may possibly feel justified in maxing out the new card if you can only get approved for around 10-12K or something instead of the 30K+ you'd need for maintaining good credit. It's a very important personal decision that you'll need to weigh in the larger context of your life.
Anyway, good luck with whatever your decide and I hope things work out!
| Total CL: $321.7k | UTL: 2% | AAoA: 7.0yrs | Baddies: 0 | Other: Lease, Loan, *No Mortgage, All Inq's from Jun '20 Car Shopping |










I have a question. What if you were on the mortgage/loan as well? Would that help the approval odds?
The reason I ask is that right now I am suspicious of everyone. My cousin is just going through a nasty divoce right now where she will probably end up with very little. While she took on her share of the bills and debt, the property was in his name (including the house she inherited when her father died). I know every situation is different, so forgive me if this sounds rude, but loads of red flags pop up for me when I hear a plan in which one party wants another to take on debt so they can obtain assets.
I can't go on to the loan. I am self employed and haven't worked long enough to be put on it. Maybe about 8 months off and on. I calculated everything and with his debt plus mine, it would be about a 46% utilzation. I have $4400 debt, while he has the 14,000 he is adding to mine. I am sure my score will go down, but maybe not by much since right now it is at 72% (before the new $23,000 cc) and my score actually went up while having the utilization this high... Possibly because each account says no missed payments etc.