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I have found the vertex42 debt worksheet to be very helpful in the past. If you know some excel, you can even hack some things. But one can put in their own real numbers and check the math for themselves. (ETA: the sheet now has a dropdown for choosing one of the stratgies in play: snowball or avalanche)
https://www.vertex42.com/Calculators/debt-reduction-calculator.html
There are also online solutions, I don't recall the name of any.
I think the reason that the Forbes article came out with the pay-downs both taking 52 months and only saving $223 (in which case I'd honestly do the snowball) is because NONE of the interest rates are that horrendous. When I was paying stuff down in the 20XX I had 29.99% interest rates and I'm sure some people on the forum do too. (Can't recall if the OP posted rates).
@Anonymous wrote:
@SouthJamaica wrote:
@AnonymousI wonder if you realize how insulting that was.Im sorry I really didn't intend it that way. Just pointing out the math is very basic multiplication. I could have been more empathetic about it, wasn't trying to insult.
And how about SJs continued disbelief of what we were trying to show, is that not a little insulting.....?
At the risk of continuing the insult, this is REALLY not that many levels above ....:
"I have five credit cards and I plan to close two, as I only need 3"
"But how do you know that closing 2 will leave you with 3? It might be different."
The math is simple : it's hard to keep arguing when people don't get this: do you want to pay interest on $X at Y% or Z%. And, FWIW, I have a first degree in math and a PhD in a related field, but you shouldn't need arguments "from authority" to see the truth here!
Note that I agree the snowball may be more effective in the real world, just that IF you can stay the course, the higher interest method is better.
@UncleB wrote:Not every method is for everybody... what's important is finding and using the method that's effective for you.
It sounds like our OP is off to a good start here.
I think that sometimes we forget that each situation is different and that paying down debt isn't a one-size-fits-all situation. I agree that @cet2062 has made the right choice to get started. The stars have aligned so that she's able to tackle high interest while simultaneously snowballing three cards.
If there were several three-digit balances on the list, I'd possibly suggest snowballing those cards, but not necessarily because of the psychological sense of accomplishment. It'd be because they'd qualify as nuisances and bookkeeping would become simpler. There aren't any cards like that on the OP's list, however, other than two high-interest cards that she plans to tackle first.
In this case, given that we don't have APRs for each card, I think tackling high interest first is the way to go. This is a huge amount of debt, and there's no pressing need to address scoring. With information on APRs, a more nuanced approach might make sense. For instance, if two cards have relatively equal interest rates and substantially unequal balances, it might make sense to snowball the smaller balance first.
Once debt is substantially addressed to a point where a mortgage becomes a feasible and responsible move, it may make sense to shift gears. The OP would possibly want to look at thresholds, number/percentage of cards with positive balances, etc.
Here's the good news.
@Kforce wrote:I ran the numbers on your CC debt and average CC rates. If you continue to pay 2,750/mo you can do this in 3 years and save more than 22,000 as compared to locking in the current minimum payment numbers. If you pay highest interest down and add about 500 in payments you can be debt free in just over 2 years. If you are sufficiently motivated, you can dig your self out of this debt. "Good Luck"
There's light at the end of this tunnel. Additionally, the OP says that she and the hubby expect their income to increase. Hopefully, as time goes by, they can add the suggested $500 per month or even more. I see good reason to be optimistic as long the OP is able to stick to her budget.
Would it be worth $1-$100 for someone to have a better chance of keeping current total credit limit exposure at the moment all debt is paid off? That's a scenario one can come upon if you have cards that are maxed out, but with a lower APR than other cards, using the APR method. You risk some potential AA by the issuer of the maxed card by not getting it out of danger territory, especially if your recovery is longer-term. You may find you are better off spending the extra few bucks in interest for awhile. Priority here is overall credit limits over total $ paid.
Likewise, one may know that lender A (a CU) is fine with those high balances but there is a specific reason to get lender B's card paid off first (building relationship for other products). In this case neither APR nor snowball would be best for your priority of building a specific relationship.
Choosing a method really boils down to what you prioritize, and at what time.
@Anonymous wrote:
@AnonymousAnd how about SJs continued disbelief of what we were trying to show, is that not a little insulting.....?
Agreed, it is. Especially when it comes to straight forward math. One thing I've learned about the Internet, people hate admitting they are wrong.