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@Anonymous wrote:
Hi everyone, this is my first post here, but by browsing I can tell that this place is crawling with good info! I'm new to this credit thing, but am ready to learn and begin taking control of my future. A little about my situation:
I have 620 FICOs across the board. Several medical collections that are due to fall off later this year, no other derogs. I'm an authorized user on a $3400 Chase card and have a secured $500 card, and that's the full extent of my file. Average age of accounts is 4 years. My income is $40k.
Once my collections are removed and my util is down to 0, I would like to begin apping for some decent cards. However, I'd also like to get a small-ish loan for a used car through my CU. Neither of these things are particularly time sensitive. Which should I do first? Will having more revolving accounts increase/decrease my chance for the loan? Will having some loan payments reporting increase/decrease my chance for good cards?
Thanks!
So, you've got a thin file. That won't really be an issue for either an auto loan or a basic credit card.
My advice would be to go for the car loan first; since it's a secured loan, the fact that you have a thin file will be less of an issue. If you're going through a credit union, you may be able to apply for a car loan AND a credit card with a single inquiry, in which case, go for it.
Once you have 6+ months of good history on your car loan, your score should improve significantly, and you will have an easier time getting approved for better cards.
You mention paying your CC debt down to $0 and then applying. That is not the best plan.
You have two open credit cards that are appearing on your report, right?
* An AU Chase card (credit limit = $3400)
* A card in your name (credit limit = $500)
What you want is (in the 40 days prior to applying for new credit) to have the AU card reporting $0 and the other card reporting a small positive balance ($5 - $44). Second best is to have the AU card at < $3000 and the other card with that small positive balance.
If you optimize your CC balances first (as above) you could then consider implementing the Share Secured Loan Technique, which give you 30 extra scoring points. Then after that you could go for the car or extra CC. (I like your idea of waiting for the derogs to fall off first before applying for the auto loan or CC.)
@Anonymous wrote:
Hi everyone, this is my first post here, but by browsing I can tell that this place is crawling with good info! I'm new to this credit thing, but am ready to learn and begin taking control of my future. A little about my situation:
I have 620 FICOs across the board. Several medical collections that are due to fall off later this year, no other derogs. I'm an authorized user on a $3400 Chase card and have a secured $500 card, and that's the full extent of my file. Average age of accounts is 4 years. My income is $40k.
Once my collections are removed and my util is down to 0, I would like to begin apping for some decent cards. However, I'd also like to get a small-ish loan for a used car through my CU. Neither of these things are particularly time sensitive. Which should I do first? Will having more revolving accounts increase/decrease my chance for the loan? Will having some loan payments reporting increase/decrease my chance for good cards?
Thanks!
1. On any FICO scoring model, recent credit cards will make the car loan tougher, so get the car loan first.
2. Prior to the car loan, if you can control the balance on the AU card, try to get it to report only a small balance while your own card reports a zero balance; that will optimize your revolving utilization, at least to the extent that it will help your FICO 8 and FICO 9 scores, and will either help or not harm your other scores.
3. After the car loan, see how your scores react. You will get a bump up, in at least some scoring models, for adding an open installment loan to your "credit mix", but will get some demerits in some scoring models for having a high percentage installment utilization. You will add points in some scoring models as you pay the loan down. 9% or less, but above zero, is the sweet spot.
4. Once your scores are >700 you can go ahead and apply for a card you will enjoy having. At that point it's good enough to know your FICO 8 score, and/or your FICO 9 score, but some credit unions use weird older scores like FICO 2.





























Great advice from SouthJ.
Only thing I'd ask is if SouthJ wouldn't want to switch the zero balances. An AU card can sometimes be excluded by FICO 8 for utilization. Thus, a small positive balance on the AU card and a $0 balance on his own card could be construed by the scoring algorithm as $0 on all cards, resulting in the 15-20 point penalty for all cards at $0.
In contrast, with the AU card at $0 and the card in his name reporting the small positive balance, there would be no chance of that penalty occuring.
@Anonymous wrote:Great advice from SouthJ.
Only thing I'd ask is if SouthJ wouldn't want to switch the zero balances. An AU card can sometimes be excluded by FICO 8 for utilization. Thus, a small positive balance on the AU card and a $0 balance on his own card could be construed by the scoring algorithm as $0 on all cards, resulting in the 15-20 point penalty for all cards at $0.
In contrast, with the AU card at $0 and the card in his name reporting the small positive balance, there would be no chance of that penalty occuring.
I didn't know that AU cards can be excluded by FICO 8.
So perhaps it would be better to use that as the zero balance card, but query whether OP can control the balance on that card, being only an AU.





























Good for you!
PS. How old is that AU card?