Engine oil change DIYers?

[NoMoreE46]

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@AndrewF wrote: That's Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum that are made from natural gas. I use those in the Buick usually but would also use whatever I can get a good deal on.  I also have some Castrol GTX Full Synthetic and some Castrol Edge from from various rebates right now. Unless this goes on for more than two years I'm good.  My Buick 3800 takes 5w30.  The only other viscosities you could use without risking damage are 0w30 and 10w30.

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The GM 3800 is awesome- what year is the Buick   @AndrewF ?

[AndrewF]

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@NoMoreE46 wrote:

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@AndrewF wrote: That's Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum that are made from natural gas. I use those in the Buick usually but would also use whatever I can get a good deal on.  I also have some Castrol GTX Full Synthetic and some Castrol Edge from from various rebates right now. Unless this goes on for more than two years I'm good.  My Buick 3800 takes 5w30.  The only other viscosities you could use without risking damage are 0w30 and 10w30.

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The GM 3800 is awesome- what year is the Buick   @AndrewF ?

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It's a 2008. I worked through a lot of the pain points from that model year.

Failed upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, Dexcool sludge clogs (drill through them with an accelerator cable), had to flush the cooling system out several times including one step with Blue Devil radiator flush and backflush the heater core. Replaced thermostat at the time.

I did a crankcase flush and it exposed oil leaks from the rear valve cover gasket, the timing cover gasket, and the oil pan gasket. Had those and the crankshaft seal replaced. Oil seepage from the oil pressure switch, replaced.

During the timing cover service, they replaced the timing chain, the gaskets and cover itself (warped), and then since so many things had to come off anyway, the oil pan gasket and camshaft seal, and the water pump and harmonic balancer. Rear valve cover cracked so new rear valve cover and gasket. No more leaks.

Had the transmission serviced. New spark plugs and wires.

Switch air filters engine and cabin) every year, throttle body intake cleaning and MAF sensor cleaning every year. All of this is easy DIY. Just make sure to use the correct cleaner for the MAF sensor because it's very sensitive and if you spray anything other than dedicated MAF cleaner on it, you'll ruin it. Let air dry when finished.

I'm considering if I want to proactively replace the EGR valve or just leave it alone until there's a problem. Those usually need PB Blaster on the bolts by the time they go bad.

New exhaust system, new catalytic converter. (Hole in the resonator and exhaust flange gasket leak, around the same time as misfiring killed the catalyst), determined likely causes of bad cat to be upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Misfires improved but not eliminated. Then suspected bad ignition coils or maybe ICM. I had changed all the coils previously, but I switched them around to see if the misfire moved, and it did not, so replaced ICM, no more misfiring.

Lots of suspension work, lower control arms on the front, both tie rod ends and the steering rack and the pump and pressure lines replaced, one of the lateral arms on the back, new struts front and back. Sway bar links replaced. (previous owner ran over something and broke the back sway bar so it still looks fine.

I also have to say that Chevron Techron has been an absolute blessing with this car. It fixes dirty intake valves and poor injector spray patterns pretty fast and you really should be using this one treated tank per oil change. Two if you use non-top tier gas.

I'm considering going back to non-Top Tier because Sam's Club sells the stuff so cheaply that a bottle of Techron every oil change interval is cheaper than buying Shell, normally. (they currently have Race Days, Fuel Rewards, and Upside at the local Shell, so I'm on that gravy train until it's over.

I like to take care of my stuff, but honestly, I drive like stink. I'm usually going about 90 down the freeway.

I haven't done a DIY oil change in years (had shoulder surgery last year after years of agony). Guy at Walmart said that the oil that came out at my last 3,000 mile OCI looked "almost as clean as new oil". Said he usually doesn't see that.

I told him about the crankcase flush with Liqui Moly. I suspected it needed one when bits of sludge were in the PCV housing when I was replacing the valve and the MAP sensor. I cleaned out what I could, but decided to flush. Stuff works, but don't be surprised if it uncovers some bad gaskets later.

This engine seems to shrug off negligent owners for the most part in ways modern engines just can't handle, including a sludge issue, overheating from neglected coolant services, etc.

Wish I still had the 1996 Crown Victoria.

With the oil shortage, it would be better to have a car that could run with various oil viscosities. Ford back-specced 5w20 for all models going back to 1992 (warning that it would ruin a 1991 or earlier). The 4.6 V8 can use 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30.

Using an oil viscosity outside the correct range will certainly not improve any issue you think you might be having.

It will either cause increased wear or a horrific failure.

I say that to anyone who thinks they're out of the correct viscosity or the price is lower on something else because of supply issues, you're maybe saving a few bucks now but at the cost of an engine it's not worth that.

[AndrewF]

Replaced the air filter today and decided to replace the EGR and clean the pipe since I was out there anyway with shop towels and carb cleaner.

Picked up an EGR valve from AutoZone'e brand but used an AC Delco gasket on it.

Also replaced the Idle Air Control valve.

Cleaned the Throttle Body and plate and used the MAF sensor cleaner.

Fired the car back up and the tachometer is stable at idle now.

It was idling between 750-820 now 780-800.

Took new readings on LTFT/STFT after a long drive.

STFT is now -0.8% and LTFT is now +1.8. Total is +1%.

I checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't detect any.

[AndrewF]

One of the things that really makes me mad is how dealerships rip people off on common, routine, servicing.

But the worst of it is probably charging people $75 for engine air filters and $90 for cabin air filters. I just did both of them again and these are not jobs that should cost over $165!

Each filter costs only costs several dollars. I picked up an entire shelf of engine air filters for $3.50 each at Walmart on the clearance aisle so I'd have a good supply on hand and wouldn't have to keep paying $10-15 for the OE part or risk having stores stop carrying them. You know, with the supply chains being crap like they are you never know about basic stuff anymore.

People tend to ignore both filters, and that leads to damage downstream of the filters, there's thousands of dollars worth of stuff downstream of the cabin air filter, and if the engine filter gets clogged, you'll have bad acceleration, rough idle, rich fuel mixture (bad for gas mileage and the catalytic converter and O2 sensors!) and if the filter starts having dirt come out the other side or rips or tears (sometimes animals go in there and chew on them), your engine could be sucking down dirt that damages the bearings and coats the throttle plate and IAC valve.

There was someone I knew 20 years ago who had a Honda and he told me he took the air filter out and was running it without a filter.

I told him "You'll get away with that for a while, depends on what your engine sucks in. If it's dirt, it'll sand down the bearings and some other things, if some large trash gets in, it could just ruin the engine then and there."

Change your filters and I hope you're not letting a dealership rip you off. (And maybe they don't even change them, they just bill you...eople who pay for that don't ever open the box and look. I don't trust anyone.)

Things cost too much these days. Don't let the stealership charge big money for simple things.

I have seen several people come into the shop where I go for more major repairs and  had an engine light come on because the car was running poorly, or they had it towed because it wouldn't start, and after all this, the mechanic comes out and says "It was the air filter, here's how much trash we got out of it."

It also happened to an ex's mother's car. She couldn't get it started, I went and pulled the engine air filter and there was a mound of dirt and grass clippings on it and the filter was black. I banged the filter on the side of the car a couple times to get the debris off the top and put it back in and the car at least started and got me down to the parts store for a filter.

Technically you can pull it and look at it every year, but by the time you have everything apart, just give it a clean filter.

[AndrewF]

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@dfwxjer wrote:

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@NoMoreE46 wrote:

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@dfwxjer wrote:

Glad I just bought a prepaid oil change plan for my BMW. 2 oil changes a year for 3 years for $250. It was already a good deal at their old rate (normally $120 per service) but knowing it won't change makes it an even better deal. 

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The $250 is (for up to 6 oil changes)  an awesome deal.   Keep in mind that the intervals are based on the CBS.  If you can get at least 3  changes in, this is a win. 

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I put 25-30k miles on it annually so it's definitely saving me some money lol. Under my ultimate care plan (up to 75k miles) my dealership was pretty nice about letting me bring it in every 7500-8000 miles instead of the recommended 12k interval. I doubt I'll own it more than another year or two. 

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If you're driving 25,000-30,000 miles a year, you should be doing more than two oil changes per year.

If the book says that what you're doing is good, then the book is wrong.

Oil changes that routinely go 10,000 miles or more practically guarantee sludge and varnish in the engine will develop. There is no oil, no filter, no engine, that should ever exceed 7,500 miles between oil changes on the extreme end.

There's simply no way around this. Not even the Cult of Amsoil (which is very good oil and filters, granted, but you should never go 20,000 miles between oil changes. It's just simply not worth it.)

Since you *are* going to BMW, they are at least using the correct oil specifications. Some people who bought a BMW decided they'd just use American Castrol with the API donut on it and go for a very extended drain, and then yeah, sludge city.

Sludge and more importantly, why there is sludge (bearing wear, dirt, oil breakdown, acids) are going to cost you more than another oil change or two each year.

[AndrewF]

At Walgreens today, of all places, they had quarts of Pennzoil High Mileage 5w30 Synthetic Blend on clearance.

Said API Service SP.

Bought all of them. Someone had marked it down to $2 per quart. I got enough for three oil changes.

[AndrewF]

I used to like CRC for their throttle body cleaner but I found out that the Gumout spray for throttle bodies and air intakes is more effective at dissolving carbon and varnish. It does it faster with less fumes.

I don't like Gumout's gas additives that much, I've found them to be far less effective than Chevron Techron.

But the throttle body spray is pretty good.

As with all these things, you want to do it while you have the airbox and duct off anyway to change the air filter and if you're cleaning it while it's on the vehicle you should start with the car off and spray the side of the plate facing you and the edges, but wear goggles and a respirator so you don't inhale the spray or get any in your eyes.

Hold your breath while spraying then run about 20 feet from the car before you breath again to avoid fumes. Let it sit a bit and then go wipe up the mess with shop towels until the towels don't have any more carbon on them.

If it's an old car and the last owner was naughty, you'll get a dirty plate and a mound of carbon around it. So don't be surprised if the computer compensated for this by resetting the zero position and you have to relearn or at least fight like hell and give it some gas to get the car restarted when finished cleaning.

To get the side of the plate that's facing the engine, you can just pull it open if it has an accelerator cable. Wear nitrile rubber gloves, and take the straw off the spray can do it doesn't go flying into your intake. If it does, you're kind of screwed.

Or have someone else hold the plate open and wear gloves while you spray it down and hold the straw to the can.

If the throttle body is electronic and there's no cable, do not open it manually. You could injure yourself or damage the throttle body and have a very expensive repair.

Instead, with the key turned to the ON position, but the car NOT RUNNING, have someone or something press the gas pedal which will open the plate with the car off, this way you won't damage it or get one hell of a pinch. Then proceed to spray clean the other side and wipe up with shop towels.

Very important to not use too much spray.

Lots of fumes in the intake make it harder to start the car.

If the buildup was bad, consult sources for your car on the throttle body relearn procedure.

If it wasn't that bad, let the computer figure it out, the ca might actually run rough for a day or two but should calm down.

The reason why cleaning out the TBI and changing your air filter is so important in this economy is because when the engine can't get enough air, it compensates, but not in a good way.

It'll run rich by dumping in more fuel.

Gasoline is a lot more expensive than air.

Plus I love having an old car that runs so quietly that people comment on it.

Most of the reasons why an old car runs poorly is neglect. A number of relatively cheap fixes can often sort out a lot of that and turn a gas guzzling monster into something that gets closer to the EPA estimated gas mileage.

In extreme cases you could be paying for 20% more gas than you should to go the same distance. At current prices, that's like adding another dollar a gallon.

If you take a car to a mechanic and tell them you want a throttle body cleaning and a new air filter they'll hit you where they always do, labor. It'll be over $200 probably.

An air filter is $10 and a can of spray is $6.

At various times, Ford has claimed there's no need to clean the throttle body because it has a coating that's difficult for carbon to stick to. This is basically fake news, since eventually they get dirty too. The coating is on the manifold side and you should not aggressively scrub that side or use any brush other than maybe a toothbrush to clean it. I'd primarily focus on whether there's a mound of carbon around the plate and the side facing the air intake box.

[AndrewF]

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@NoMoreE46 wrote:

Nice $10 rebate for M1 that I will submit now - thanks @Vinjints .

There is a joke that you can

use Peanut oil in lieu of the ultra low 0W-8 weight for the newer Toyotas!

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I grabbed some of that Advanced Clean Mobil 1 from Walmart. 10% employee discount, $4 Walmart Cash, $10 rebate and a free tumbler.

Even if it doesn't reverse any existing grime, it's still good oil and cheap.

Edit: T&C for the Mobil 1 rebate say up to four per household, so you could get $40 and four free fast and the furious tumblers for four jugs of oil.

Advance Auto Parts has a $37.99 special for a jug of Mobil 1 and a Carquest oil filter, you can use that if you like and then stack the Mobil 1 rebates on those later.

[dfwxjer]

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@AndrewF wrote:

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@dfwxjer wrote:

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@NoMoreE46 wrote:

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@dfwxjer wrote:

Glad I just bought a prepaid oil change plan for my BMW. 2 oil changes a year for 3 years for $250. It was already a good deal at their old rate (normally $120 per service) but knowing it won't change makes it an even better deal. 

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The $250 is (for up to 6 oil changes)  an awesome deal.   Keep in mind that the intervals are based on the CBS.  If you can get at least 3  changes in, this is a win. 

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I put 25-30k miles on it annually so it's definitely saving me some money lol. Under my ultimate care plan (up to 75k miles) my dealership was pretty nice about letting me bring it in every 7500-8000 miles instead of the recommended 12k interval. I doubt I'll own it more than another year or two. 

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If you're driving 25,000-30,000 miles a year, you should be doing more than two oil changes per year.

If the book says that what you're doing is good, then the book is wrong.

Oil changes that routinely go 10,000 miles or more practically guarantee sludge and varnish in the engine will develop. There is no oil, no filter, no engine, that should ever exceed 7,500 miles between oil changes on the extreme end.

There's simply no way around this. Not even the Cult of Amsoil (which is very good oil and filters, granted, but you should never go 20,000 miles between oil changes. It's just simply not worth it.)

Since you *are* going to BMW, they are at least using the correct oil specifications. Some people who bought a BMW decided they'd just use American Castrol with the API donut on it and go for a very extended drain, and then yeah, sludge city.

Sludge and more importantly, why there is sludge (bearing wear, dirt, oil breakdown, acids) are going to cost you more than another oil change or two each year.

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Correct, but I'll just pay for the other oil changes out of pocket. Prepaying still saved me money overall. 

[NoMoreE46]

You know your stuff @AndrewF .

I had a 4.6 V8 in a F150.  It was easy to work on.    I got a Ridgeline with over 260,000 miles and it is still strong.