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Hey guys,
Well, it's come to a point in my life where I am going to finally finance a car. I currently have a car, and I have a buyer interested in buying it for 4,000 dollars. It's a 96 chevrolet caprice, with only 80k on the engine. I am getting out of the "car" game so to speak, I spent a lot of money modifiyng it and just recently I had to pay 1,500 to repair it. (Thanks, American Express).
Anyway, I am going to be getting 4,000 for it soon. I am looking at a CERTIFIED used 2005 Toyota Corolla CE. The car has 38,000 miles. The reason I am going for this certified is for peace of mind. It offers a 7 year/100k limited powertrain warrantee. So, yes it won't fix EVERYTHING, however....if anything major happens (engine blown, tranny shot) they will replace for no fee. The car is listed at 9,500 dollars.
I figure I am going to put a total of 4,500 dollars DOWN on this car and finance it. Cash talks, and I am under the influence that a larger downpayment shows less of a risk. My credit scores are pretty good, in the low 700's. I have been employed with the same company for 3 years, and have never had a late bill in my life.
What route should I go? Maybe my bank first, then if they deny me, somebody online? I don't want to go to the dealership, that's for sure. I also want a loan that doesn't have a pre-payment penalty, as I plan to pay this 5,000-6,000 balance within a year (I'll let it show for ONE year so it can help my credit get a mix of installment, credit cards, etc...)
Anybody with some information for me? Do I have a shot?
Kenny D
Oh, and the reason I posted.
Was going to check my credit report to make sure I am 100 percent before I go...
AND I FORGOT I PUT A FRAUD ALERT on my credit. My wallet got stolen about 2 months ago or so and I lost everything, so I called up the 3 companies and had them alert. And, of course, like an IDIOT I threw away my PIN numbers thinking "Im not going to apply for credit for at least a year"
How am I going to bypass this. From what I am learning, I will get a phone call before I can get approved of any credit to verify that I am the person. It says you have to have a written thing, but my 90 days may be coming soon I am not sure.
I hope this is the case, because I still dont have my SSN paper and I am moving in a week. I never filed to get a new one, I dont even have a printer.
Am I S.O.L....
You can still obtain credit with an FA, just not "instant" credit... If you froze your reports, that is different. You could have done both - put an FA and Frozen credit reports.......I have FA's with all three bureaus but not only frozen with EQ. FA's and freezes are two different animals, cats and dogs.
if you froze your reports, a potential creditor will not be able to access your file, it will be an instant denial. Understand with a fraud alert you can still apply, you will not get instant credit....the potential creditor MUST identify you. For example, I cannot get credit until potential creditor calls me on my mobile to verify basic information.
You need to call the burueas and pay the fee to have the freeze removed. It should be around ten bucks. If you provided a police report to initiate the freeze, it would have been at no charge initially to place the freeze...I'll assume you didn't file a police report for a lost wallet. Call the bureaus and tell them to mail you your pin/ YOu will probably need to provide some ID or answer questions...
Understand too, I know you are moving. Yeah, i was there. however, the mailman won't forward anythign from the bureaus, esp. Pins, I bet a dollar to a donut, they are "do not forward" pieces of mail. Until you move and update drivers license and show them a current utility bill that matches dl, you will have problems. It's a sign I guess of potential theft of identity.
hope this helps!
Hi again,
YOu should consider pulling your scores first, from this website. That should give you a good general idea of where your credit stands...A child out of college can have a score higher than mine because they have "thin files". Auto finance companies do take into consideration more than one factor. Typically look at how long you've been employed with the same employer, debt to income, etc. so many, not soley score based. Income is a factor as well. How much car you can afford. etc. There is some good information on this website that will be helpful to you understand how auto lending works. I'm no expert on it, just a fellow shopper like you!
I didn't know that Toyota was in the CPO game. I too, am looking at CPO cars as well, but one is a German car and you may know, they are nice, but can be troublesome as far reliability and expensive to repair.. Go to edmunds and see how much that car is without a CPO. The car does have low miles, only 38K. Edmunds might help you understand that CPO's are HIGHER priced cars. I understand the piece of mind, I don't know if I would be willing to pay three thousand bucks for Toyota CPO with lower miles or roll the dice, A good mechanic may charge you 200 bucks to do the inspection. You could save thousands right here. I'm not sure that car needs to be a CPO is what i am saying. Your engine will probably outlast how long you will have that car...just my opinon...if you do the research on that car, again, look at what people have spent in repairs, history for that particular model. Toys are really reliable and seldom make "lemons". they are not expensive to repair either.
All I can say, being upside down once, I would not wish it on anyone. do not pay more for a car than what it is worth. throw money down on the loan to secure a lower interest rate and avoid being upside down.
How long do you want to finance the car? I would consider avoiding anything more than 60 months.. Why? think about how many miles (predict how many you drive and multiply that by how many years the length of the loan and add current mileage) You don't want to be paying on a car that will be X number of years old with X amount of miles...and get upside down...
I am about 98% positive I just put a 90-day Fraud alert on all three.
I think I did it on 8/2/2009, so 11/2/2009 will be okay....
I wanted advice on the car loan though guys ![]()
I make about 26,000 a year. I just am about to start my second job, so another 100-200 a week. My rent is 300 a month, utilities about 400 total.
My debt isn't too extreme, about 3,000 in debt right now nothing horrible and nothing not payable.
Thanks,
Kenny
daisy,
Thanks for your thoughts. I want a 60 month loan, but plan on paying it back after about 12 months. If I have the 3,500 DOWN, a 7,000 loan wouldn't run me too much a month and I know I could pay it fully off in a year, just to establish a little installment loan movement on my credit.
CPO is what I am going for, but I am always looking.
Nothing is for sure until I get my car sold. Until then, it's just web browsing and researching!
hi xxKennyxx,
I'm no expert, like I said. I just wanted to give food for thought. I'm looking for a car myself. you have a NICE downpayment. I've been interviewing finance dudes at my local dealership. I pick the phone up and ask them questions. They are not that busy on rainy days.
With that said, I vascillate often between paying hte price for a CPO car. I wanted to give you an opinion, just for food for thought. Would never want to insult anyone, just more things to think about. I hope you understand this. I'm anything but a mean person....
On the main home page of this website, check out the auto loans section if you have not already done so. this will explain how the buz works. remember that lots of folks get approved for cars, but at what rate? How can you guess what kind of rate you will get? if you start with buying your two FICO's from this website, that should give you a basic idea.
You've posted income, debt, etc. you are putting down a hefty down payment. It is my understanding from the interview process that banks like b/t ten to twenty percent of the price of the vehicle in form of downpayment. With that said, you might not need to put that much down...maybe savings would be better. your choice, the bank can help you here. The last piece of the puzzle now is to find out your score. this is a good indication. Do you have any paid auto loans reporting on your credit report? if so, how were they paid? they look at this too.
IMHO - it will not hurt to do your homework. you will only benefit from a lower interest rate. this is what we all want!!
As far as financing, i think Toy is running deals as well, but do you belong to a CU. Having researched non stop on pre owned car rates, I've come to the conclusion that Credit Unions offer the lowest rates, unless you can beat what the mfg is offering. I am of the belief it might be a good idea to secure financing prior to going to the dealership. you will know at this point, the amount you will or have rec'd approval. It doesn't seem to me that you are looking to finance an outrageous amoutn of money. you can handle that....you've made lots of good decisions...
I hope this helps. someone else can chime in about financing, etc.