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Does the out the door price include what you are willing to pay down?
@C7LT1 wrote:
@Chris679 wrote:
@C7LT1 wrote:
@elim wrote:I think the next loan i use, I will put 0 down and put my down payment toward the loan on day 2. Give me a nice cushion and bring my instalment utilization down faster. Any downside?
I ran my down payment through a rewards card on my last purchase at the very last minute... no fee. No DP was required on the USAA loan.
Nothing wrong with it just make sure you make a "prinical only" payment. This will save on interest but your payment is still be due next month. This is super easy with USAA.
A big thumbs down to the pricipal only payment. One of the big advantages of paying down the loan early vs a down payment is the flexiblity you gain with the payments. You can pay it off early if you like or you can just pay less every month and stretch the loan out the full term. Or if you are six months ahead and something comes up you can just not make a payment for 6 months. You're going to have to pay any interest that is due when you make a payment no matter what. You aren't saving anything with a princial only payment you are just losing flexiblity because you still owe the payments as usual. My CU doesn't even offer princial only payments because they only serve to help the bank get your money faster.
This is just wrong information. Flexiblity in a auto loan comes from have a nice emergency fund not from a down payment or paying down the loan early. If I did not have a fully funded emergency fund I would not be paying extra towards a auto loan. I would be saving the money towards my emergency. It's not a question of IF it's going to rain it's a question of WHEN. Being ahead a few months on your auto loan is not going to help much if you lose your income for 3-6 months. You still have rent, food, unitilities, etc. I'll take a nice emergency over being ahead on my loan any day. Remember interest on a auto loan is calculated on the prinical. The advantage of a princial only payment that you pay down the princial which reduce the amount interest pay over the life of the loan. It is true that a princial only payment does not replace your required monthly payment but in the end it saves you money. I love to save money where I can.
Put down at least 10% and pay TTL out of pocket. Finance the balance and make principal only payment when you can. You will pay the car all earlier saving on the interest in the process. Also, have an emergency fund to cover all of your expenses for at least 3 months. This is not the only way to proceed, its just me way.
We are not talking about emergency funds here. That is another topic for another forum. We are talking about using the same money we were going to use for the down payment and putting it to better use. The interest you save on a principal only payment you just have to pay on your next payment (so less of that payment goes to the principal). The amount of money you save is just the interest on the interest which is hundreths of pennies per day. Instead of trying to save hundreths of pennies per day you could be using that down payment money as an added layer of your emergency fund. Math does not lie, principal only payments don't make any sense because you don't really save any money you only lose flexibility.
No ..out the door is before any down payment.
@Anonymous wrote:Does the out the door price include what you are willing to pay down?
whaddupmia07,
Can you provide your monthly income after tax and your typical monthly expenses and how much you save each month? From some rough numbers, I assume you get 30K per year after taxes and probably spend 20K of that on rent/mortgage/utilities/food etc. That leaves roughly 10k for savings or about $800 per month. I'd say spend no more than $250 of that on the car plus additional $150 on insurance and gas, leaving you $400 savings. To get to a $250 monthly payment, assuming a 5 year loan and 2% interest, the loan amount would have to be $14,000 meaning you'd have to put down $9-12k depending on the car price.
Obviously we can give you better specifics if you can give your post tax income and amount saved up per month. Also how long do you want the loan to last?
@Anonymous wrote:whaddupmia07,
Can you provide your monthly income after tax and your typical monthly expenses and how much you save each month? From some rough numbers, I assume you get 30K per year after taxes and probably spend 20K of that on rent/mortgage/utilities/food etc. That leaves roughly 10k for savings or about $800 per month. I'd say spend no more than $250 of that on the car plus additional $150 on insurance and gas, leaving you $400 savings. To get to a $250 monthly payment, assuming a 5 year loan and 2% interest, the loan amount would have to be $14,000 meaning you'd have to put down $9-12k depending on the car price.
Obviously we can give you better specifics if you can give your post tax income and amount saved up per month. Also how long do you want the loan to last?
Hello,
Yearly income after tax is about $32500. I pay $500/month in rent and currently utilities is covered by the future in-laws (we live in a studio apartment on their property). So lets just say about 10-15K/year on rent, food, and whatever else is needed. I should also mention my fiance (husband in just 6 short weeks) makes 20K after taxes while still attending college. So, together we net about 50K/year. My plan was to lengthen the loan to 72months if needed then making principal only payments whenever possible to lessen the length of the loan.
You make plenty of income. You can put down anything you want since you're having a 6 year loan and your rent and expenses are cheap.
@whaddupmia07 wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:whaddupmia07,
Can you provide your monthly income after tax and your typical monthly expenses and how much you save each month? From some rough numbers, I assume you get 30K per year after taxes and probably spend 20K of that on rent/mortgage/utilities/food etc. That leaves roughly 10k for savings or about $800 per month. I'd say spend no more than $250 of that on the car plus additional $150 on insurance and gas, leaving you $400 savings. To get to a $250 monthly payment, assuming a 5 year loan and 2% interest, the loan amount would have to be $14,000 meaning you'd have to put down $9-12k depending on the car price.
Obviously we can give you better specifics if you can give your post tax income and amount saved up per month. Also how long do you want the loan to last?
Hello,
Yearly income after tax is about $32500. I pay $500/month in rent and currently utilities is covered by the future in-laws (we live in a studio apartment on their property). So lets just say about 10-15K/year on rent, food, and whatever else is needed. I should also mention my fiance (husband in just 6 short weeks) makes 20K after taxes while still attending college. So, together we net about 50K/year. My plan was to lengthen the loan to 72months if needed then making principal only payments whenever possible to lessen the length of the loan.
Sounds like a good plan! Sorry for getting your thread off topic.
i prefer zero down payment. It's all about risk. Assuming you can get a "good" APR (a personal decision, but i would say anything under 3%) i would rather pay that extra interest on the addtional amount financed (by not making a down payment) and let the GAP insurance issuer cover the loss in case of an accident early in the loan. My last car i could have paid cash, but instead financed the whole thing at 0.9%.
others would rather save that money and assume the risk. there is no right or wrong answer, but rather what you're comfortable with.
example
you buy a new car worth 40K. As soon as you drive off the lot it's worth 32K-36K. Let's say 35K to just pick a #. Let's also say you paid the sales tax out of pocket up front. And finally lets say it gets totaled or stolen 1 month later.
Scenario 1 - you made a 10K downpayment. So your outstanding loan balance is $30K. Your car insurance will cover the outstanding loan for up to the 35K at best (the market value). So you car loan of 30K is paid off (yay!) but half of your 10K just disappeared. You don't get it back. You're only getting the value ($35K) minus the loan payoff ($30K) back as a check to you. That's $5K
Scenario 2 - You didn't make a down payment. Your oustanding loan is for $40K. You car insurance covers the 35K, and the gap covers the other 5K. You didn't lose a dime.
So again, for me personally, I'd rather pay the slight extra interest of 0.9% on the extra 10K financed + the cost of GAP insurance, to not risk losing the $5K in event of a loss.
and as a slight tagent, at 0.0% or 0.9% financing, you can take that $10K and invest it and still come out ahead, even after covering the extra interest ![]()
@Anonymous wrote:i prefer zero down payment. It's all about risk. Assuming you can get a "good" APR (a personal decision, but i would say anything under 3%) i would rather pay that extra interest on the addtional amount financed (by not making a down payment) and let the GAP insurance issuer cover the loss in case of an accident early in the loan. My last car i could have paid cash, but instead financed the whole thing at 0.9%.
others would rather save that money and assume the risk. there is no right or wrong answer, but rather what you're comfortable with.
example
you buy a new car worth 40K. As soon as you drive off the lot it's worth 32K-36K. Let's say 35K to just pick a #. Let's also say you paid the sales tax out of pocket up front. And finally lets say it gets totaled or stolen 1 month later.
Scenario 1 - you made a 10K downpayment. So your outstanding loan balance is $30K. Your car insurance will cover the outstanding loan for up to the 35K at best (the market value). So you car loan of 30K is paid off (yay!) but half of your 10K just disappeared. You don't get it back. You're only getting the value ($35K) minus the loan payoff ($30K) back as a check to you. That's $5K
Scenario 2 - You didn't make a down payment. Your oustanding loan is for $40K. You car insurance covers the 35K, and the gap covers the other 5K. You didn't lose a dime.
So again, for me personally, I'd rather pay the slight extra interest of 0.9% on the extra 10K financed + the cost of GAP insurance, to not risk losing the $5K in event of a loss.
and as a slight tagent, at 0.0% or 0.9% financing, you can take that $10K and invest it and still come out ahead, even after covering the extra interest
Yea that's what I've been trying to say. Finance everything you can if interest is low enough. Get gap and even if car is totaled u lose nothing out of pocket. Why put money down so the new vehicle your getting isn't upside down. Also ppl saying worst case is it make monthly lower and if lose job can still squeeze by. Honestly if u lost job for long period of time last thing ur going to worry about is ur car. You going to worry about housing and food!! Plenty of vehicle is offering low interest rate. Will be ridiculous not to borrow the money at such a low interest. When I was rebuilding I got a loan thru capital one for almost 14% for 19400 which was almost a year ago. Went with loan cause I needed it to build credit faster. now I can get a loan for a 95000 BMW for 4.2 for 72 months and even lower with credit unions