No credit card required
Browse credit cards from a variety of issuers to see if there's a better card for you.
@Anonymous wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:Does the 91 days start when I got the email I was approved for my card?
Wow so applied and got this! Largest CL to date was 6K from BB&T. Have the Cashrewards CL is 1K.
@Anonymous Congratulations!
@mikesonthemend wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:
@M_Smart007 wrote:
@CommanderCody wrote:One year. Started with 1k, at 6 months got CLI to 3k. May have asked for to much this time, 12k, but was hoping to get countered at 8 or 9. At 91/3, went for card 2 and got 20k. Then 3 months ago went for card 3, got 20k. Just want to get the MR up as I use it a lot.
@CommanderCody, One thing you can do .. if you want the MR up is to message NFCU and see if they will move
a set amount of CL from one of your least used card's to the MR. You ask for what amount $2K, $5K whatever you see fit?
Edited to Add: I call it a Credit Line Reallocation
+1 to @M_Smart007 Another option would be to change the cards around, as you can switch between the card types very easily. I have done it many times to get the card i used the most with the highest limit. Just have to call, and easy peasy all done. Just make sure to use up whatever points you have so that they don't go to waste.
Reallocation is great, but it can also look like AA to other lenders, and may have to be explained if you go to a manual review
Excellent point I never considered.
In RED, I have 2 Chase cards and one Amex card I stripped to $1000 CL, did not want to close because of age.
I have never had to explain to any lender, and I do not feel it has affected any of My approvals. I am pretty sure when they see the high limits the cards were once at, and the other cards from the same lender with super high limits, I think they (UW) know with certain lenders that you can move CL's around JMHO.
@RRTX1 Congrats on the awesome approval!!
@M_Smart007 wrote:
In RED, I have 2 Chase cards and one Amex card I stripped to $1000 CL, did not want to close because of age.I have never had to explain to any lender, and I do not feel it has affected any of My approvals. I am pretty sure when they see the high limits the cards were once at, and the other cards from the same lender with super high limits, I think they (UW) know with certain lenders that you can move CL's around JMHO.
@M_Smart007 And i do agree with this, now my profile is better. This was not the case when i was starting out, and some on here with much lower scores/profiles do tend to get large limits, so while it might not ever happen, i wanted to give some the heads up even tho it didnt stop me, it did come up.
I am a UW and card reallocation does not mean anything and is not even really trackable TBH.
I want to see the words "ACCT CLOSED BY CUSTOMER", not "ACCT CLOSED BY CREDITOR". So if you are SDing a card and not running any spend thru it, please close it before the creditor does.
@Anonymous wrote:I am a UW and card reallocation does not mean anything and is not even really trackable TBH.
I want to see the words "ACCT CLOSED BY CUSTOMER", not "ACCT CLOSED BY CREDITOR". So if you are SDing a card and not running any spend thru it, please close it before the creditor does.
Interesting hearing this from a UW when everyone says it doesn't matter either way. I always figured it had to affect something so I've always avoided letting a card be closed by creditors.
@Anonymous wrote:
@Anonymous wrote:I am a UW and card reallocation does not mean anything and is not even really trackable TBH.
I want to see the words "ACCT CLOSED BY CUSTOMER", not "ACCT CLOSED BY CREDITOR". So if you are SDing a card and not running any spend thru it, please close it before the creditor does.
Interesting hearing this from a UW when everyone says it doesn't matter either way. I always figured it had to affect something so I've always avoided letting a card be closed by creditors.
Yes, interesting comment. Although I imagine it's more of a tie-breaker type of issue. If someone had great scores, high income, low debt, thick file, no late payments, he's probably also unlikely to have any accounts marked "Closed by Creditor." In other words, there are probably bigger reasons for the UW to be digging through that file in the first place. Still, I have tried to avoid those remarks also by preemptively closing idle accounts.
Just want to make sure I do this right.
First account, more rewards, approved 1/4/2020. First statement 1/26/2020.
So 3rd statement will be 3/26/20. Leap year makes things a tad interesting.
January was 31, Feb was 29, March will be 31, so 91 days should be 4/4/20, or 4/5/20.
If I wait until, say, April 10, I should be gucci, correct? I did sign up for a CLOC on March 10 understanding it would not matter.
@mikesonthemend wrote:Just want to make sure I do this right.
First account, more rewards, approved 1/4/2020. First statement 1/26/2020.
So 3rd statement will be 3/26/20. Leap year makes things a tad interesting.
January was 31, Feb was 29, March will be 31, so 91 days should be 4/4/20, or 4/5/20.
If I wait until, say, April 10, I should be gucci, correct? I did sign up for a CLOC on March 10 understanding it would not matter.
4/4/2020
https://www.timeanddate.com/date/dateadded.html?m1=1&d1=4&y1=2020&type=add&ay=&am=&aw=&ad=91&rec=
ETA. I had wrong year 2019. Corrected to 2020. Revised change from 4/5 to 4/4.
you would be correct. as long as its at least 3 statements cut, which you only need one more, and 91 day since your last app, you're good to go.
@mikesonthemend wrote:Just want to make sure I do this right.
First account, more rewards, approved 1/4/2020. First statement 1/26/2020.
So 3rd statement will be 3/26/20. Leap year makes things a tad interesting.
January was 31, Feb was 29, March will be 31, so 91 days should be 4/4/20, or 4/5/20.
If I wait until, say, April 10, I should be gucci, correct? I did sign up for a CLOC on March 10 understanding it would not matter.