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@Thomas_Thumb wrote:
@taxi818 wrote:I just did a count and realize I have balances that I'm carrying on 15 out of 21 accounts. I'm now focusing n eliminating the small fry. Paid some taxes. And back due taxes to get to this point. My thinking was better to owe banks instead of big brother. Anyway. Total balances of about 15k. Minimum monthly s about 450 dollars. I pay 4times that. Anyway. Total util is about13% I want half done in 5 months. Pay down. Using Amex premier instead of credit at this point. My scores dived a little after a car loan. But I'm not understanding why not completely tanked. Eq704. Ex. 710. Tu. 736.
Lowest balance 93 dollars highest. 4500. I'm in a mission but can't believe the small affect on fico scores. Highest single card limit. Quicksilver. 0% 12 months. 3600 dollars. 60% usage. Not sure if this is killing me either. I don't need anything right now. Except focusing on pay down.
No worries.
Aggregate utilization is king and you are at 13% which is pretty good. Get it below 9% by paying off 10 of those 15 cards. I would suggest getting the # open accounts reporting a balance to 25% (5 cards would be good given you have 21).
Reducing # accounts with a balance will have a greater impact on score than getting individual card utilizations under 30% across the board. After getting count "under control" bring any remaining cards to under 30% while holding aggregate UT to under 9% [e.g. report less than $10k each month assuming an aggregate CL of $115k)
Note 1: There may be a few additional points to gain by further reducing AG UT to the 4% to 5% range. [No further gain in the 1% to 3% range based on my experience]. So, ideally, you may want to establish a plan to maintain aggregate UT in the 1% to 5% range long term.
Note 2: Impact of high individual card utilization is rather small until you get to the "max out" threshold which appears to be about 90%. Nonetheless, as a general rule, recommend staying below 30% on a card basis.
Wow. Excellent Advice. and yes. Total is about $115k. But 5k not reporting from macys and 5k hidden. This is exactly my thinking. Bring the total with balance to 5 or less. I will try my best to get it below 10% total as well. So with the 21 cards 15 are reporting balance. but i can bring 3-4 more to 0 balance within the next 2 weeks. then work on the other 5. Its not that i will be applying for anything anytime soon. Its just i would like my scores to climb during the next 18 months or so. Want a 2nd card in about a year. Not sure of that impact and will want another house in about 3 years. Thanks for great advice. So first order of business should be to bring as many to 0 as possible? then worry about going below 30%. Then keeping total between 1-9% across board. Thanks.
@taxi818 wrote:
@Thomas_Thumb wrote:
@taxi818 wrote:I just did a count and realize I have balances that I'm carrying on 15 out of 21 accounts. I'm now focusing n eliminating the small fry. Paid some taxes. And back due taxes to get to this point. My thinking was better to owe banks instead of big brother. Anyway. Total balances of about 15k. Minimum monthly s about 450 dollars. I pay 4times that. Anyway. Total util is about13% I want half done in 5 months. Pay down. Using Amex premier instead of credit at this point. My scores dived a little after a car loan. But I'm not understanding why not completely tanked. Eq704. Ex. 710. Tu. 736.
Lowest balance 93 dollars highest. 4500. I'm in a mission but can't believe the small affect on fico scores. Highest single card limit. Quicksilver. 0% 12 months. 3600 dollars. 60% usage. Not sure if this is killing me either. I don't need anything right now. Except focusing on pay down.
No worries.
Aggregate utilization is king and you are at 13% which is pretty good. Get it below 9% by paying off 10 of those 15 cards. I would suggest getting the # open accounts reporting a balance to 25% (5 cards would be good given you have 21).
Reducing # accounts with a balance will have a greater impact on score than getting individual card utilizations under 30% across the board. After getting count "under control" bring any remaining cards to under 30% while holding aggregate UT to under 9% [e.g. report less than $10k each month assuming an aggregate CL of $115k)
Note 1: There may be a few additional points to gain by further reducing AG UT to the 4% to 5% range. [No further gain in the 1% to 3% range based on my experience]. So, ideally, you may want to establish a plan to maintain aggregate UT in the 1% to 5% range long term.
Note 2: Impact of high individual card utilization is rather small until you get to the "max out" threshold which appears to be about 90%. Nonetheless, as a general rule, recommend staying below 30% on a card basis.
Wow. Excellent Advice. and yes. Total is about $115k. But 5k not reporting from macys and 5k hidden. This is exactly my thinking. Bring the total with balance to 5 or less. I will try my best to get it below 10% total as well. So with the 21 cards 15 are reporting balance. but i can bring 3-4 more to 0 balance within the next 2 weeks. then work on the other 5. Its not that i will be applying for anything anytime soon. Its just i would like my scores to climb during the next 18 months or so. Want a 2nd card in about a year. Not sure of that impact and will want another house in about 3 years. Thanks for great advice. So first order of business should be to bring as many to 0 as possible? then worry about going below 30%. Then keeping total between 1-9% across board. Thanks.
Yes and no. Get the card count down 1st. Then get your AG UT below 9%. Then worry about all cards below 30%.
In reality, I suspect your AG UT will naturally be under 9% before your card count reporting a balance drops to 5.
P.S. I let one of my cards report a balance = 51% UT one month and then 3 months later allowed the same card to report a balance = 80.1% UT. In between I reported a card UT under 10%. Fico 8 score did not change at all. However, I maintained AG UT under 5% through out [general qualifier - results can vary by profile]
@Anonymous wrote:Hi Kidcat. Yes, having a credit card at 88% will have a significant impact. But remember that you aren't doing any permanent harm to your score. It's just that, as long as that card is at 88% (or close to that) you will be losing a fair number of points. But as that card's utilization comes down -- 80&, 70%, 60%, etc. -- you will get those points back.
I had a longer discussion with another person just a day or two ago. What I said to him may help:
http://ficoforums.myfico.com/t5/Understanding-FICO-Scoring/Utilization-question/m-p/4336555#M101580
Here's my philosophy about it. One should try to have one's FICO scores maximized at all times, whether or not there's some big, obvious credit "event" like a mortgage or auto loan on the horizon.
1. Credit score searches are ubiquitous now, often when you don't expect it: e.g., changing cellphone carriers, acting as a guarantor on your child's rental application, getting car insurance, changing credit card processors at your business, etc.
2. Having better credit scores gets you better credlit limit increases, better prequalified offers, better credit terms in general; it even gets you lower car insurance rates.
3. In an emergency, when you might really need credit, that's exactly when you're helpless to do anything about optimizing, because you don't have the flexibility.
So I think it's a worthy goal to optimize one's credit picture, with or without any specific foreseeable need for it at the moment.
@taxi818, I will interested in your data points. Thanks for starting this thread.
@SouthJamaica wrote:Here's my philosophy about it. One should try to have one's FICO scores maximized at all times, whether or not there's some big, obvious credit "event" like a mortgage or auto loan on the horizon.
1. Credit score searches are ubiquitous now, often when you don't expect it: e.g., changing cellphone carriers, acting as a guarantor on your child's rental application, getting car insurance, changing credit card processors at your business, etc.
2. Having better credit scores gets you better credlit limit increases, better prequalified offers, better credit terms in general; it even gets you lower car insurance rates.
3. In an emergency, when you might really need credit, that's exactly when you're helpless to do anything about optimizing, because you don't have the flexibility.
So I think it's a worthy goal to optimize one's credit picture, with or without any specific foreseeable need for it at the moment.
Not sure I quite agree with this. The OP has a 700+ credit score. That is good enough since he isn't planning on app'g for anything right now. IMO he should pay 3x the min for the 0% balances. And put as much as he can towards the higher interest rate balances. Once the higher interest rate balances are taken care of, then attack the lower interest rates. His score may not improve as fast as it could, but he will pay off the balances faster. Now matter how he gets there, his score will be maximized once the balances are paid off. The less interest he pays the faster he will get there.
We don't know enough about the auto insurance credit score model to know how to maximize it. It does not behave the same as a FICO credit score. Remember, the score isn't about your risk of default. For example, just having store cards hurts your auto insurance risk score. Even closed store cards isn't good for your auto insurance score. I have started following my TU insurance score on CK, but I don't have enough data points to know if higher balances really hurt your auto insurance risk score. Moreover, it isn't my LexisNexus auto insurance score. Apparently, I would have to pay to get that score.
You also do not need a 760+ score for cell phone contracts, most apartment rentals or employment screening. Perhaps, you will get better pre-approval offers, but the OP shouldn't be concentrating on paying down the balances, not getting more credit now. Just let his current TL's age. His overall utilization is not bad.
@CreditDunce wrote:
@SouthJamaica wrote:Here's my philosophy about it. One should try to have one's FICO scores maximized at all times, whether or not there's some big, obvious credit "event" like a mortgage or auto loan on the horizon.
1. Credit score searches are ubiquitous now, often when you don't expect it: e.g., changing cellphone carriers, acting as a guarantor on your child's rental application, getting car insurance, changing credit card processors at your business, etc.
2. Having better credit scores gets you better credlit limit increases, better prequalified offers, better credit terms in general; it even gets you lower car insurance rates.
3. In an emergency, when you might really need credit, that's exactly when you're helpless to do anything about optimizing, because you don't have the flexibility.
So I think it's a worthy goal to optimize one's credit picture, with or without any specific foreseeable need for it at the moment.
Not sure I quite agree with this. The OP has a 700+ credit score. That is good enough since he isn't planning on app'g for anything right now. IMO he should pay 3x the min for the 0% balances. And put as much as he can towards the higher interest rate balances. Once the higher interest rate balances are taken care of, then attack the lower interest rates. His score may not improve as fast as it could, but he will pay off the balances faster. Now matter how he gets there, his score will be maximized once the balances are paid off. The less interest he pays the faster he will get there.
We don't know enough about the auto insurance credit score model to know how to maximize it. It does not behave the same as a FICO credit score. Remember, the score isn't about your risk of default. For example, just having store cards hurts your auto insurance risk score. Even closed store cards isn't good for your auto insurance score. I have started following my TU insurance score on CK, but I don't have enough data points to know if higher balances really hurt your auto insurance risk score. Moreover, it isn't my LexisNexus auto insurance score. Apparently, I would have to pay to get that score.
You also do not need a 760+ score for cell phone contracts, most apartment rentals or employment screening. Perhaps, you will get better pre-approval offers, but the OP shouldn't be concentrating on paying down the balances, not getting more credit now. Just let his current TL's age. His overall utilization is not bad.
For sure don't need 760 plus. Yep despite all the balances scores still over 700 as I have no negatives at all. No lates nothing. 650 will get cellphone. Apartments and employment. Do want to maximize scores but not at the expense of my savings. I will pay 3x on 0% actually I've been doing 10 times that's why I have not paid the small fry off. The biggest current at exactly 60%. It was 73%. So I think once that one card is under 50% scores should rebound. I agree also will let accounts age at this point. If can can pay 4K down in next 5 months I will be dancing in the streets which will put my total util under 10%. Hopefully under 7 cards with balances then. Thanks all for different view points and I've listened to everyone. So good advice.
@taxi818 wrote:
@CreditDunce wrote:
@SouthJamaica wrote:Here's my philosophy about it. One should try to have one's FICO scores maximized at all times, whether or not there's some big, obvious credit "event" like a mortgage or auto loan on the horizon.
1. Credit score searches are ubiquitous now, often when you don't expect it: e.g., changing cellphone carriers, acting as a guarantor on your child's rental application, getting car insurance, changing credit card processors at your business, etc.
2. Having better credit scores gets you better credlit limit increases, better prequalified offers, better credit terms in general; it even gets you lower car insurance rates.
3. In an emergency, when you might really need credit, that's exactly when you're helpless to do anything about optimizing, because you don't have the flexibility.
So I think it's a worthy goal to optimize one's credit picture, with or without any specific foreseeable need for it at the moment.
Not sure I quite agree with this. The OP has a 700+ credit score. That is good enough since he isn't planning on app'g for anything right now. IMO he should pay 3x the min for the 0% balances. And put as much as he can towards the higher interest rate balances. Once the higher interest rate balances are taken care of, then attack the lower interest rates. His score may not improve as fast as it could, but he will pay off the balances faster. Now matter how he gets there, his score will be maximized once the balances are paid off. The less interest he pays the faster he will get there.
We don't know enough about the auto insurance credit score model to know how to maximize it. It does not behave the same as a FICO credit score. Remember, the score isn't about your risk of default. For example, just having store cards hurts your auto insurance risk score. Even closed store cards isn't good for your auto insurance score. I have started following my TU insurance score on CK, but I don't have enough data points to know if higher balances really hurt your auto insurance risk score. Moreover, it isn't my LexisNexus auto insurance score. Apparently, I would have to pay to get that score.
You also do not need a 760+ score for cell phone contracts, most apartment rentals or employment screening. Perhaps, you will get better pre-approval offers, but the OP shouldn't be concentrating on paying down the balances, not getting more credit now. Just let his current TL's age. His overall utilization is not bad.
For sure don't need 760 plus. Yep despite all the balances scores still over 700 as I have no negatives at all. No lates nothing. 650 will get cellphone. Apartments and employment. Do want to maximize scores but not at the expense of my savings. I will pay 3x on 0% actually I've been doing 10 times that's why I have not paid the small fry off. The biggest current at exactly 60%. It was 73%. So I think once that one card is under 50% scores should rebound. I agree also will let accounts age at this point. If can can pay 4K down in next 5 months I will be dancing in the streets which will put my total util under 10%. Hopefully under 7 cards with balances then. Thanks all for different view points and I've listened to everyone. So good advice.
I said it's a worthy goal, not the only worthy goal.
Most of 2015 I have just paid in full usually and let the card report whatever its going to report when the statement cuts. Out of my several cards, I would say from month to month, I am letting a balance report on 15 to 20 of the nearly 60 cards I have.
My EQ and EX are stagnant despite some months letting less cards report, utilization is 6% or under. No cards reporting a balance over 20% and all the inquiries are not moving those scores up or down.
TU flucuates the most for me. They don't like a lot of balances, I see drops and then gains weekly with TU which is not the case for the others.
@ddemari wrote:Most of 2015 I have just paid in full usually and let the card report whatever its going to report when the statement cuts. Out of my several cards, I would say from month to month, I am letting a balance report on 15 to 20 of the nearly 60 cards I have.
My EQ and EX are stagnant despite some months letting less cards report, utilization is 6% or under. No cards reporting a balance over 20% and all the inquiries are not moving those scores up or down.
TU flucuates the most for me. They don't like a lot of balances, I see drops and then gains weekly with TU which is not the case for the others.
On a percentage basis you are reporting a balance on 25% to 33% of your cards. That is reasonably low so I would hope your score would remain stable. Now if you bump QTY reporting up to 80% (48 cards), things might get interesting. Best I can tell is influence of inquiries reach a plateau at about the 10 count range. So inquiry count changes in the 10 to 30 range => no impact on score.
Affect of # cards reporting really is profile dependent. I only have a few cards but can report 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 of 6 without impacting my Fico 8 classic score. However, EQ Fico 8 bankcard score did drop 4 points when I went from (3 of 6) to (4 of 6) but no additional drop at (5 of 6).
End of the day, based on OPs profile, reducing # cards reporting sure looks like it will have a significant impact on score. [5 cards gets OP down to the 25% range in which you are operating]